First 3 things.

For road racing, autocrossing, or just taking that curve in style. Oh yea, and stopping!
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petew
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Joined: Sat Oct 07, 2006 4:05 pm

Post by petew »

D7, I know your pain. I drive and race a LWB buggy based on a 60 pan.

1. camber/castor. shim the linkpins (for king and link pin) for negative camber. you won't get much but it helps. Buy the fattest castor shims bugpack sells. this helps with turn in

2. tyre pressures, hard on the back, soft on the front. to give you an idea, I was running 40psi on the back and 20psi on the front. And the thinner the front tyre the better. I'd aim for a 165/175 wet weather type tyre with a soft compound or rally steer tyres like are used on the front of Mitsubishi EVO rally cars. Pick em up second hand. I've found they transformed the car on dirt.

3. Stiffen up the back shocks, soften up the front. STOCK OIL SHOCKS on the front. HARD GAS SHOCKS on the back. Also, brace everything in the back end with a kafer cup brace or similar barwork and put an 19mm antiroll bar on the back. 24mm rear torsion bars or similar. You want the back to let go before the front.

4. move anything that is heavy and not location-crucial to the front of the car. Battery, fuel tank, fuel pumps, driving lights, etc. Make a front bar up and don't skimp on the steel (but don't go too crazy or fill it with lead). Take hole saws to the back of the car wherever possible. Cut off any useless metal tabs or fittings. Be ruthless. Move your driving position forward a little.

All these things have worked for me. My car now handles well on dirt (what I set it up for) and not bad on the street.

Have a look at my build up and see what has/hsan't worked for me.

http://www.geocities.com/peterwood73/bu ... index.html

oh, and buy some turning brakes. ;)
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FJCamper
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Drilling holes

Post by FJCamper »

D7,

Drilling into a gas shock is a good way to ruin it. I'm not being critical, and have done to oil shocks just what you are suggesting here, except I was replacing the oil with a heavier shock oil to make cheater Showroom Stock shocks.

Get a cheap set of standard oil shocks. Keep your good gas shocks unharmed.

FJC
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

Yes...what he said. The internals of gas and oil shocks are VERY different. Ray
D7
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Post by D7 »

Jeez that's quite a comprehensive site there Pete with a ton of good reading and pix. My buggy is a full pan J&S too.

Ray and FJC - yeah I figured it probably couldn't be done as I have never heard it mentioned anywhere, but as the Oz dollar has dropped some 40 plus percent in the economic downturn, nothing is cheap and we pay at least 2-3 times more for stuff here than you do in the good ol USA which really starts to bite, when one has so much to buy for their forever ongoing project and the missus prefers we buy stuff like food and medicine etc.
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petew
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Post by petew »

where abouts are you D7? Love to chat some more.

you have PM
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FJCamper
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Speed costs money

Post by FJCamper »

Hi D7,

I well understand the classic conflict between car parts and home economics. In my youth, I learned to make do and fabricate because I could not just go buy whatever I wanted. The practical knowledge it gained me has been the edge that helps me win races today.

We are very lucky here Stateside for price, availability, and spectrum of VW parts and speed parts.

I just don't want to see you ruin some good gas shocks you might be able to trade to a guy with a full-bodied Bug for some good oil shocks.

FJC
D7
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Joined: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:32 pm

Post by D7 »

I understand FJC and apreciate your most welcome and very informative advice which I will apply.
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