sideshow wrote:Decklids are not spot welded together, the outer skin is folded over the inner. 100% non trivial to remove.
I have never done this before and was wanting to know what happens to the paint when you re-fold the skin back over. Won't the paint chip or flake off?
You can see why I attempting to do this, with the rust that is hidden betweem the panels. This is not my decklid.
My plans where after I got it apart was to strip all the paint off with stripper, then use phosphoric acid to treat all the rust,(rinse??), acid etching primer, 2k primer everything, then single stage everything that will be hidden. Then putting the final coat on the outside after it is all back together.
On my newly painted '57 sedan, I had an area inside the slots that was not painted. I took a small head, very long handled brush and carefully painted the inside with gloss black Rustoleum (car is black) rather than try the more complicated fixes. It was a little tricky getting the brush past the slots for each brush load, but the whole process (one coat) only took about 30 minutes. I'll probably do another coat to get a little more shine and add a layer of protection. In my judgment, it looks fine. Not perfect, but won't be noticed by 99% of all lookers.
Although not a ghia, but, I removed the louvers on my 57 ...
There where a bunch of spot welds to remove...The old spot weld stubs will stay, this will help in alignment, when I re-install the louver.
for the hard to get to spot welds, I bought a right angle drill from harbor freight. Here's what happens when you get a little over zealous with the spot weld cutter.....
here's what it looks like after welding up the holes and a little filler.....
After the louver is painted, I will be re-installing it using body panel adhesive.
The application method I've found to be best is NOT to use spray tip the cans come with. Not exactly anyway. Most of the area you'll be covering is in tough to reach places like above the frame rails behind suspension components, behind brake lines and wires, above and behind all kinds of things. So you need to shoot the paint from a distance, accurately. That's where the red tubes come in to play. If you pop out the white tip with a utility knife, you can then insert the red tube.
You might have to expand the tube tip a little with a sharp all or needle to get it to fit tight into the spray nozzle's hole (you don't want to fire the red tube off the spray tip). Then jam the red tube into a few of these tips. Have a few extras just in case you clog one or two ( they can and do clog after a lot of spraying), or if you loose it.
The Gum-Out Carb cleaner nozzle actually fits the Rustoleum can so you can use that. Just be sure not to try to re-use that tip for carb cleaning after spraying paint through it.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
On my bug, i masked the rear vent with duct tape, each individual vent, then bagged the entire car with a tarp, then used one of those cheap hand sand blasters you can buy from harbor frieght. Took about an hour from start to finish.
Then all you have to do is spray some metal etch primer, and paint!
