sweetlokin66 wrote:
What do you guys think about the turbo?
GT2560 its too small. Really. Especially the turbine wheels are too small.
Only the Gt3076R has a 60mm turbine wheel, even the 3071R has the smaller 56mm.
Any turbo will run though and perform well, thats usually not a problem.
Just my 2 cents.
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi in a streetlegal 1303
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
I am running a GT28R on a 2.0 with 7.5:1 static and webcam 119 in my 914. Currently I am using a 10psi wastegate but I just got the Megasquirt boost controller hooked up to go higher, I just need to finish that off.
It comes on early enough for me and loses rear traction quite easily so I just squeezed some 225/50/16 on the rear.
I am still tweaking, the weather looks OK at the moment so maybe go for a run and post up the log later so you can see how it boosts.
It probably would have helped to put up what I was after goal wise for the motor first. Im trying to keep it at 2.0 liter maybe 2.2. Im going to have stock 2 liter amc heads with upgraded springs and stainless valves, but the sizes are staying the same. Im attempting to make around 200-270. MAYBE 300, but I dont know if the stock valve sizes would support that. The GT2560 aka GT28R turbo claims to support up to that and then some. Early spool is the biggest thing for me since ill be doing a lot of around town driving. Ill be able to make 5 psi around 2500 rpm with the 2560R. That im hoping not to add another 600 my budget going with a GT2860R - 707160 - 5 . I plan on making a 4-2-1 header that goes from 1.5 ID to 1.625 ID to 1.75 ID that feeds the turbo.
Great Project and fantastic welding!
I agree with Wally - don´t be afraid to use a larger turbo.The 2560 is too small.That would work well on a 1.7 or 1.8.
A GT28R or equivelant would suit the motor better and will reach your HP goal easily,keeping the intake temperature lower than with a smaller turbo that is less efficient in that range.For around town driving,you don´t really want to be on boost.If you want the motor to be more efficient and responsive in the low rpm range increase your static compression ratio.8:1 or 8.5:1 would be good.A higher compressio ratio will improve your gas mileage aswell and make the engine more efficient,and it would be easier mapping when the engine is at idle or partial load.
Thanks my pops is helping me out on the welding bit, ive just been tacking everything up. Im looking into a GT28R. I sent an email to shag about a turbo, looks like hes helped a few people out here. Id rather try and do it right once.
I agreeing with what has already been said but I want to say again, NICE fabrication and welding!!! I hope to do something along those lines on the 2.0 I'll be building this year. I like the way you positioned your intercooler, nice and close as possible to the valves.
I have a question in regards to building the intake logs as you have them. Is there an advantage in doing it this way instead of building an intake that looks like a tuned header? The reason I ask is I was thinking about building matched intake runners for mine. What do you think?
In regards to the Ebay turbo you posted the link for, why choose one that already has a waste gate if you plan on a separate one?
Keep up the great work and lots of pictures please. I'm subscribed!
what do you think of using a KKK 26 turbo from a Audi 5000 S with a stock 2.0 type 4 with CIS bosch injection with injectors from a 6.9 litre Mercedes 450 sl ?
CobraJet wrote:I agreeing with what has already been said but I want to say again, NICE fabrication and welding!!! I hope to do something along those lines on the 2.0 I'll be building this year. I like the way you positioned your intercooler, nice and close as possible to the valves.
I have a question in regards to building the intake logs as you have them. Is there an advantage in doing it this way instead of building an intake that looks like a tuned header? The reason I ask is I was thinking about building matched intake runners for mine. What do you think?
In regards to the Ebay turbo you posted the link for, why choose one that already has a waste gate if you plan on a separate one?
Keep up the great work and lots of pictures please. I'm subscribed!
My intakes reduce in taper from the opening of the base to the head of the valve to increase intake velocity. I wanted to use stock base because its direct port injection. I also built the radius into the baseplate because I didnt want intake velocity stacks to intterupt the flow into the plentums.
The alternative wastegate looking part is actually a BOV (blow off Valve). It goes on the intake runner between the turbo and the throttle body.
I have been talking to shagg and just purchased a turbo tonight from him. I also got some stub flanges from tiger at A-1 on the way so I can start on the exhaust.
Some low mileage 2.0 liters. Im putting in stainless valves and cutting the intake seats to 45*. It already has dual springs installed however I might get some different springs as well.
. I plan on making a 4-2-1 header that goes from 1.5 ID to 1.625 ID to 1.75 ID that feeds the turbo.
