Modernizing the wiring harness

[Chris V]

That is pretty nifty. I didn't know about Blue Sea systems.

But one of my objectives is to do away with the old-style relays and flashers (like the stock 9-pin relay). The integrated assembly approach does away with those as well as the wires related to them.

I will also be adding equipment not found on the original car, such as two relays to control a Megasquirt ECU and FI pump, a collection of gauges and sound system to be located in the center console I haven't designed yet, perhaps some small cabin lights. Stuff like that...
Max

I know about modern relays and extra demands on the electrical system...

Our `69 has a Rabbit fuel pump relay, a 3-pin flasher relay, two relays to control the retained accessory power, a hi/low relay, a high beam relay, a low beam relay, an accessory relay, a rear window defrost relay, a starter solenoid relay, a relay for the Type IV heat booster fan under the backseat, and a 75A relay to control the Blue Sea fuse panel. It also has a cylinder head temp, tach, and oil pressure gauge. I've added a Secret Audio stereo setup w/the head-unit remotely mounted behind the backseat, with the control LCD screen/buttons recessed into the glovebox door. I've also added Rossi headlights with an extra park lamp as well as late model Jetta sidemarkers that operate as both park and turn signals. It's also got a Cole Hersee wiper switch, with hi/low/and 2-20 second intermittent; as well as a push-to-wash feature that operates a Mexi Beetle reservoir & pump - it wipes the screen automatically a couple times and parks the blades. I'm soon to be adding a late two-speed dash fan as well.

There's a Dakota Digital unit that gives you retained power when you turn off the car, and breaks it when you open the door(s) and has a headlight sensor that controls the headlights automatically...I also installed a Gentex rearview mirror w/compass, thermometer, LED map lights (w/push-button override on the dash via a re-wired stock brake warning indicator), and auto-dimming. Today I installed a second factory domelight and modified two stock switches to operate them in a certain way - both may be controlled from the driver's side.

I also installed a second OEM fuse panel behind the passenger seat in our `73 Bus, next to an additional battery, a 200W amp, and another 75A relay.

[flat_iv]

I have wired my 74 ghia with a painless wire harness. I think I used the generic Chevy/ford harness. It was super easy. I could help where tell you how to wire it. I would defiantly use the painless harness again.

[Max Welton]

Chris, your capabilities in this area are clearly greater than mine. I bet your wiring looks more mike a missile guidance system.

Flat_iv I have also heard from someone who has used the 12 circuit trunk-mount painless system in a KG. He was happy enough to do it again for his son's 67.

If I have questions, I will ask. Thanks!

Max

[Steve Arndt]

Ebay has nice prices on blue sea fuse blocks. I like the design because the cover provides pretty good protection, and you can really crank down the terminal screws for a solid connection.

[Chris V]

Chris, your capabilities in this area are clearly greater than mine. I bet your wiring looks more mike a missile guidance system. ...

Well, a little busy...but with quite a bit of the wiring behind the backseat it could certainly be worse...I have 12 spaces in the trunk that primarily take care of lighting and loads at/ahead of the windshield, and 12 spaces in the back (w/ground bus) that control things like the power/heated seats, ignition coil, stereo, back-up light, the Type IV heater blower, and rear window defrost. I also installed a 60A main that fuses the 24 spaces combined.

A bit from complete, but here's a photo that's recent:


Backseat:

[Max Welton]

Yeah, that seems a little "busy". But impressive functionality-wise.

Here's a clean setup using painless from
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewto ... it#5777558



Yesterday I ordered the 12 circuit Painless setup. The only way to know for sure is to try it myself.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webc ... ield=10120

Stay tuned.

Max

[Max Welton]

The brown truck dropped this off today.



Max

[Piledriver]

Cool, the wires aren't all red!!!
(You haven't lived untill you work on one of those...at least it paid by the hour)

[Max Welton]

I'm color-blind BTW, so I'm just guessing about the color of the truck.

Good thing for me these wires are actually labelled.

Max

[Greg Rickard]

Nice. I think the modular electrical harness products can really help with electrical upgrades in vintage cars as well as newer ones.

I wanted to add several accessories (oil pressure and oil temperature gauges, etc.) to my Lotus Exige and not hack up the factory harness to piggyback on existing circuits, so I added an auxiliary fuse panel (Painless) so that the new accessories would have dedicated circuits. I liked the result so much that I am considering doing the same thing for my Ghia so that the tach, stereo, and electric antenna will have dedicated circuits. It would allow me to continue using the existing factory harness (which is in great shape and reliable) for OEM equipment and add a parallel harness for upgrades.

[flat_iv]

You will not regret it....

[FJCamper]

For our race cars, as example here, we just augment the stock system and try to improve reliability, such as the long grounding bar you see on the right side of the photo.

Bad grounds are more electrical trouble than almost anything else.

FJC

[Max Welton]

OK, finally getting back to this.

Used the little plate that came with the kit to get the box above the air control tube and corrugation in the sheet metal.





Max

[Chris V]

Layout is an uphill battle...will your fusebox be covered by a factory-style wiring/cover? I had to flip the stock modular box around to keep them accessible in Dad's car...which meant cutting up the fresh air defrost box and fiberglassing it in. The relays must be taken out to service the fan-box, but the relays themselves can be changed without dis-assembly - there's always something when wiring in extra features into a tiny little 2-door import.

Hell, behind the backseat I now have the 12-space Blue Sea panel, three relays, two amplifiers, a head-unit, 10" subwoofer, and a pair of 6x8's...'luggage tray' sure I even had to wire the rear window defroster 'backwards' from stock to keep the mess down some.

I wouldn't recommend running a volt-a-drop...they're ill working, fire hazards.

[Max Welton]

I plan on attaching a panel to the two vertical braces (one visible just by the wiper motor) to hide the wiring behind. It will need a cut-out to clear the fuse-box or maybe a bulge to cover it. I might make something out of wood, then find someone local that can lay it up in fiberglass. Not sure yet.

Max