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1600 CHEAP turbo kit I put together for my brothers rail.
Garrett T-25 turbo-$40.00 off of Craigslist.
Carbon seal rebuild kit-$60.00 off of eBay.
Used Tri-mil exhaust-$20.00 off of Craigslist. (We needed this for the collector and some of the bends since the mid engine exhaust points straight out the back.)
Turbo Intake manifold- Free, built with spare parts I had laying around.
Engine intake manifold. -Free, I used an old solex intake and just cut the flange off.
Turbo exhaust pipe-$3.50 from Autozone. I used a 45 degree pipe, cut out a flange and then welded it up to cover the waste gate and exhaust outlet.
Misc. turbo gaskets-$23.00 from Autozone.
Pipe from turbo to intake- Free. Left over roll cage tubing.
3AN oil feed line and fittings-$25.00 from Autozone and Pacific Customs.
Turbo drain hose- Came with the turbo.
Turbo pipe couplers-$8.00 from Home Depot.
1" tubing for the turbo brace- Free, left over tubing.
140&145 jets for the carb-$12.00 from Moore Parts.

It came out to around $200.00 and about 5 hours of work including the turbo rebuild and the fabrication. The motor is a tired bone stock 1600 but the turbo really woke it up. We had it out in Glamis for 6 days and my brother beat the snot out of it. Everything worked great and it's still running good.

$300 for my generic t3 turbo
$200 for header/down pipe/wastegate pipe
$150 for my Kymco T3 1.5 header
$400 for Holley 4 barrel and carbon fiber 3" intake
$25 for old wastegate
$150 for LM-1
$10 Autometer boost gauge
Free fuel pump and holley pressure regulator
$75 for locked out 009
$100 for custom made manifold spacers to use on type 3 engine
$1700 for 2110cc longblock
countless hours and set backs!
$3110.00 to finally get to where I can start tuning

Great stuff. thank you. Any photos?

i added a picture

Ok here is what I have so far.

Case = AS41
Stroke= 69
Bore = 94
Heads = CB 044
Compression = 7.57
CB performance header
Turbo = T03/04 hot side .48 cold .42
Carb = Single Dell 45 set up for Turbo
inter-cooler, waste-gate and BOV
6 rib tranny
33X12.50X15 rear tires
I need to put the LM-1 back on and find out what the AFR is. I have it set up for 15psi but before I had the limit set I hit 20+ and blew a hole in the cylinder and head. I was running too lean and to high of boost.


I am not running the high dollar parts, just try and drive it with RPMs under 5k and try to keep my alter ego in check

build in germany: 1641cc twin scroll


basic engine: (all prices in euros...expensive germany )

as41 case std. 10m head studs. 40
old unnown crank but hardened and ballanced 8 pins(8 years in my garage)
stock rods rebuild, checked and ballanced 120
cb2280 cheater cam + camgear (csp) 120
mahle forged pistons 87mm csp 380
heads 043 39/35 unported 120
pushrod tubes mixed stock and csp 30
scat dual valvesprings 40
lash caps , crower retainers and co 80
valvecovers csp a gift
pushrods bugpack cromo 80
scat 1,3:1 rocker used 120
lifters scat 60
flywheel 200 old german light ballanced and 8 pinned laying around
crank+flywheel ballanced 90
kennedy stage1 (bought 2006) 120
6 pack kopper clutch disk 60 (i know its hard)
oil sump 1,5l 50
bearings and stuff on the crank + sealings and co i would say 200
compression 7,6:1

=1710 in listed parts with small parts and oil lets say 1800 euro engine

cooling:
porsche cooling hood for free
wheel and generator is from a friend.
146mm pulley 10
36_1 wheel 20
extermal oil cooler system (big cooler with fan, hoses, racimex thermostat, adapter) about 200

=230 euro good luck here

Turbo:
stainless steel homemmade with a professional welder, real twin scroll header 4_2 and 3_1, pipes and material 170
turbocharger bmw 1.6 184hp borg warner twin scroll k03 250 used
drain and oil feed+ adapters 50
wastgate tin from a gt1544 diesel turbo 10
exhaust with muffler homemade stainless steel 90

= 570 euro + allloooot ot hours of work.

intercooling:
cheap water-air-intercooler changed 100
pipes and hoses about 100
pump 100
tank selfmade 30 in material
hoses and intercooler from a small bike 50

=380 euro also plus alooooot of work

fuel injection:
edis stuff from boost engeneering (coil used, modul, spark wires, vr sensor) bet about i i am right 120
ms1extra 200
cooland sensor 20
wiring stuff+ all the small stuff 120
relaisboard 70
injectors ev12 393cc/min 80
sparks ngk 7s (bkr?) don't remind jet) 15
german injection but heavily changed (endpieces, plenum, TB, tps, air coolant sensor...) 60
lc1 innovate 200
bosch fuel pump 60
filter golf1 gti 10
catchtank homemmade free
fuel pressur regulator 150
hoses, pipes 40

=1145 euro

==>i bet alot of stuff is missed the small things make the money big at the end.so all together minimum 4100-4300 euros and way to much work


it's a low rpm engine(peak unter 5000rpm) with boost in all gears and hope to reach 300nm at the flywheel at full boost and with this cam 180-200hp max. currently i drive it with 1,2 bar boost.

Got one done and two more in the pipeline.

The first is in my bug...

An old 1776 that I built as an NA engine back 1991.... The AS41 block has not been apart since and has nearly 200,000kms on it!
Engine cost me close to 4k back in the day..... All prices are in Aussie dollars.

Engine:
DMS CW 69mm Crank
9lbs FW with a BERG gland bolt ans HD washer
Engle 120 cam
Stock lifters
Stock rockers on homemade sold shafts and BERG adjusters
044 heads, semi-hemi'd with 40x35.5 SS valves, 7.6-1 CR, ported and polished by a buddy here in Oz.
Copper head gaskets (40thou)
NGK 7 plugs
Stock rods and bolts
BERG sump
26mm pump and BERG pump cover
OBERG filter

Intake:
Holley 500CFM Dbl barrel ($150 eBay) with Percy Adjust-a-jet ($95 from my local V8 performance shop) and boost referencing.
Homemade aluminium carb manifold with ebay sourced carb flange. $25
Carb supports made from 10mm scrap conduit
Homemade 'T' manifold (1 5/8" scrap exhaust tube)
OEM endcastings (found in the pile of parts I have) match ported and opened up to match 'T'.
Homemade boost bleed, made from the parts box.

-8 crankcase breather and RHS rocker breather into a FASTFAB breather box.... I'll add another crankcase breather near the FW on the stroker.

Turbo:
GT25 bought used but with very few miles on it. $600.
-4 Oil lines with restrictors (0.8mm at the feed, 0.3 at the turbo... Both homemade)
-10 drain to modified Jaycee fuel pump block off.

Header:
All homemade in 1 5/8" stainless, but with commercially water cut flanges.
Dump pipe is 3" stainless.
Muffler is a Kiwi made bit of kit in stainless. $400 all in for the zorst!!!
DB-1 wideband (eBayNZ for $160)


There is a 2276 stroker that I am putting together, that is purpose built for about 15psi.... A mild engine which owes me just on $3500
Pentroof case
AA flat top pistons
Cima barrels
CB CNC Wedge Port heads with 44x37 valves (hand finished)
SCAT Comp 8mm head studs
SCAT 1.4 rockers and SCAT shafts
CB 5.5" H Beams with ARPM 2000 bolts
CB 82mm crank
CroMo FW at 10lbs
Kennedy Stage II Clutch with Black Magic disc
BERG sump, 26mm pump and BERG cover.

All the turbo gear off the 1776 will go onto this engine.


And finally I have the 1641 puss box ($300) I have built from junk and have fitted to my daily driver low-light Micro.... It goes like a train currently!
It's stock, through and through, but will one day (next holidays I promise Mario!) get it's Mexi EFI and MS1 ECU (see Mario V for deets)
A low boost blow-through turbo (free Garret T25 turbo)
Another DB-1 wideband (eBayNZ for $160).
An old chinese made sidewinder that I will mod for the turbo
-8 crankcase breather and RHS rocker breather to a Moroso breather tower.

my_medusa wrote:..........build in germany: 1641cc twin scroll
........
it's a low rpm engine(peak unter 5000rpm) with boost in all gears and hope to reach 300nm at the flywheel at full boost and with this cam 180-200hp max. currently i drive it with 1,2 bar boost.

Have you dynoed this engine yet? I'm interested in seeing exactly what you get out of this combination.

yes:
with the 1,1-1,2 bar
160hp@4790rpm
318nm@3430rpm

needs more hp so more cam and maybe at the same time i build a less restrictiv intake.
with 1,3 bar and a rich tune it was 335nm and 155hp to the wheels at 3450 rpm. but also just 165hp at 4800. the torque goes to fast down. with something in between 0,7-1 bar it would have a nice platou of about 250nm. but thats not the goal

Great stuff.

Medusa awsome build,

How does it feel to drive that torque monster on the road? Are you having fun with it?
Do you have any videos?

E_bug wrote:Medusa awsome build,

How does it feel to drive that torque monster on the road? Are you having fun with it?
Do you have any videos?

for sure it makes alot of fun. the small and very responsive twin scroll let it drive like a supercharged engine. it's maybe a perfekt engine for a bus. cruising in low rpm and kicking the pedal makes it push like a champ up to 4000rpm, then it still push strong but no rise of power...it still have 250nm there and holds 150hp all the time also at 6200rpm so very strong but not the right thing for drag racing for sure.
but every bus driver would be jealouse. my 195/65 r15 often start to spin in 2nd gear when boost hits peak. me and "DRED" can say it's a perfekt daily driver. and i can say damn its a fuel saver. allways when i think its time to tank some fuel the fucking tank is still 10liter over that what my feelings tell me.
i should messure how much it takes. but in a long distance drive over a weekend with at all 600km autobahn and about 200 city + land i remember i was just a bit over 8 liters. (1. mai -maikäfertreffen hannover) and i hit it all the time i could when a porsche or something came over +++. i bet its the cheater cam that helps alot with that but also there the mexican manifold is a good thing i think it fasten the airspeed of boost.
i can drive on the autobahn 130km/h all the time with afr of 15 and still have no temp problems.
if a wide band of 250nm and 150-170hp is enough for you then this turbo setup is hard to beat...specially in fact of the low fuel it needs and the high numbers down below when hitting the pedal.
even the basic engine is nothing special. i would say a stock well done 1585cc would be close to my numbers.

for me as technik freak i will for sure upgrade it...it's hard to say goodbye but i will sell it and go bigger with the hp numbers...i am too familiar with that power now and been addicted for more

videos are some to see on my chanel but not that much with the 1641cc in action because i had no smartphone since february but tomorrow i have it back and will make some roadmovie.
http://www.youtube.com/user/mymedusa

@dragvw2180:
you are right, when somebody is not familiar with building those stuff then go to a reputable builder.

recently finished putting my turbo on my car specs:
1915
69mm c/w crank
cb unitech hd rods
94mm malhe ceramic coated tops
cb 1.4 rockers
shag55 cam
tool steel lifters
1.5q sump
heads cb 044 32x37.5
magnaspark digital dist

aproximately 2900.00 on turbo
turbo system and turbo built by shag55
t3/4b welded weber intake
38mm turbosmart ultragate
turbosmart manual boost controller
holley fuel pressure regulator with check valve

My motor has been done for about a year now. I finally got all the bugs out and tuned properly. It puts out 180hp and 205 tq @ 4100 rpm.(at Roger Crawford's shop). It is a 2007 Gene Berg motor. It has an AJ Sims T 1600 turbo kit on it. It is running 10 lbs boost on pump gas (91).
Motor is 78 X 90.5's, VW heads with 40 X 37 's, AJ's LBC1 cam (almost stock VW), dual springs, 1.25's, the T3 turbo and a Holley 350 2bbl. Dist is locked-out at 30 deg. It has a Mallory Hyfire box pulling 1.5 deg per lb of boost. 3:88's with .89 4th.
I was against it, but AJ convinced me to get rid of the doghouse shroud and stock oil cooler. I put on a Scat 36hp style shroud and blocked off the stock cooler. Of course I have the 72 pass cooler with fan underneath. AJ was right. It runs cooler. It figures though, I'm getting more air over the heads. On a warm day (80*), it runs down the freeway at 3200 rpm for 30 minutes and the oil temp measured at the filter is 195*. That is without the front tin and breastplate. I am going to try to fab a breastplate up though. Lots of tubes..... It couldn't be any smoother, and is a treat to drive. AJ's kit with everything is about $2500 now I believe. Another $600-700 should complete everything you would need. I am very pleased with the overall results and would recommend this setup.

Anybody have any t4 setups to post?