ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

close up pics!

You have a very rare aquisition in those 2 vehicles. I'm most interested in the DPV. If my guess is correct it was built on a DR2 Chassis. Could you take a pic of where the B-pillar comes down to the torsion housing.?That is a dead give away if it is a DR2 chassis. DR2's had longer wheelbases. I would bet your front and rear suspensions have some very nice parts on them.
Glad you are enjoying the 4LWD.

Sorry guys, my internet is being slow so getting my pics hosted from tonight are proving to be a slooooowwwwww process.

Richard - I think you are correct in that this might be a DR2 chassis. This has positioning for 3 shocks per side in the rear - I've seen some with 4 per side and some with 2, so I think Chenowth or the Navy made some changes along the way.

I had to work today, so the only thing accomplished was removing the gunners foot platform/ammo can trays, the gas tank and the spark plugs tonight.

- I'm not sure of the capacity, but the tank appears to be two tanks in one unit. I'll post the pics later, but it has dual fill ports (one on either side) and 2 gas gauges (clear tubes between 2 nipples high and low on the tank(s)). I was told that the tank was drained when it was parked and even though it was empty, there was a slight odor of varnish from the nozzles. While it needs cleaning, the overall condition appears excellent and uncompromised.



- The gas tank trays will likely need to definitely be replaced.

- The gunners foot platform and ammo can trays (one piece that sits over the gas tank) looks great. It needs new latticework and to be blasted, but overall is in good shape.

- I took the spark plugs out today to give the engine a turn. Just as suspected, it's rusted up. I was told that it was driven to the location I picked it up and parked, so I think it's a rust issue. I've got the cylinders soaking in PB Blaster and will give it another nudge tomorrow night. Patience I think will be the key here as I really don't want to break anything.



With the wheels and body off, I was able to get a better look to see what's there and the components.

It's got disk brakes all around that are looking pretty nasty, but I'm hoping they can be cleaned up and saved or rebuilt. They're CNC brand calipers, I'm guessing the rotors, etc are as well??



Saco R&P - it looks ugly but it's uncompromised. Even the rubber boots look to be in terrific shape. I haven't examined a lot of this stuff closely yet, but I'm hoping that this can be salvaged as well.



CNC Pedals. It also has CNC turning brakes with the handles broken off.

marvel mystery oil works good on stuck rings/pistons.

bajaherbie wrote:marvel mystery oil works good on stuck rings/pistons.

Good to know, I'm sure I'll be needing more after this can, so I'll be sure to try that next.

MMO and propane, step 1 on my list to see if it can be unstuck

Well folks - I got in late tonight so the work was minimal.

I did remove the air filter assembly and mount from the vehicle and see that it has a Weber (not sure of the model) carb on it everything connected to it is pretty well shot or frozen, so it likely will need a severe soaking.



I also found the engine code. It appears that this is a Type 2 from 1976/77 with 2000cc, the best I can figure.....

I don't miss rust... sometimes I leave metal outside under the gutter just to remind me of my childhood home. Lots of nice parts there. I hope they are salvageable. If anything, those look like they are turning out to be untouched and authentic. Take good notes.

Alright gents-I need a little input. The good news is that I was able to finally turn the engine over.

The bad news is that I'm trying to get the engine out. I removed all of the nuts (4 total, 2 with bolts) and had to resort to cutting off one - it just wouldn't budge. I can see where the engine is wanting to separate from the transaxle - except where I had to cut the one nut. There isn't even any gap like it wants to separate.

Any suggestions for getting this engine free?

Engine & trans cases may be oxidized together; clutch disc is probably rusted to the flywheel & cover, and may even be rusted to the input shaft. I'd soak some penetrant around the parting line (ATF thinned w/acetone works well), tighten up the clutch adjustment and try to eject the engine with the clutch pedal.

Marc wrote:I'd soak some penetrant around the parting line (ATF thinned w/acetone works well), tighten up the clutch adjustment and try to eject the engine with the clutch pedal.

That sounds like a pretty good idea to me.

Sounds good gents, doing it right now. Ejecting it with the pedal isn't really an option since there is none, but hoping the soaking will eventually work. The bottom right side is the only thing holding me up - it better come off.....

I hate to say it, but I'm currently at a week and it still isn't parting. I've got a ratchet strap on the engine at the moment with a slight amount of rearward tension to see if I can coax it free, but there's no sign on the bottom right that it's even thinking of separating.

The next step is to get the nuts/bolts back on and get the engine/transaxle out as a single unit. I'd really rather not go this route because of having to move everything around as one, plus I'd think it'd be easier to separate them if one is secured to the vehicle.

I'm really at a loss at the moment....

What about an air hammer as a last ditch effort? Put it on the pulley bolt to vinrate the clutch loose, and maybe lightly around then parting line to get things free? Maybe use a drift block to start and see if that works. Have you used a dead blow hammer at all? Just the shock forces seem to work well on stuck parts. I'd bang on the bell housing perpendicular to the parting line all around.

Disclaimer... I have not tried any of the above.

Worst case, bell housings are replaceable. I'd sacrifice that first.

Oh wait... you said only bottom right is stuck? Is this a broken bolt? Is it moving enough that maybe we can rule out clutch being stuck and bell housing being stuck and just concentrate on the bolt/stud?

Tim - with the 4 nuts/bolts removed, I can clearly see where the engine/trans wants to separate at the top two and the bottom left bolts. The bottom right nut, I had to cut off as it just wasn't budging. This corner is showing no evidence of wanting to separate and appears as if the nut was never removed.

I'm not inclined to think something is rusted together inside, unless it's capable of freezing the case up so tight.