crvc wrote:I've got a pressure gauge. I was looking for it in my junk pile when I found that switch. What I don't have is a way to screw it into the block. Would the brake switch fit into the oil pressure switch hole? That way I can send the new switch back and get a replacement.
Yes, I am mightily embarrassed that I didn't recognize it as a brake light switch. I blame it on the heat; It's nearly 70 degrees today. Heat wave!
kevin
I could use some of that, although it's really great here as it's under 100, only 95 and sunny.
The brake light switch will fit, but I'm not too sure the internal bits will care for motor oil,
a 1/8" NPT plug would be better.
One could also put the pressure gauge at the end of a ~12" grease gun hose, and gently secure it to keep it out of the fan belt. Vibration kills cheap gauges over time.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
Sounds like you've got a mechanical oil pressure gauge that's intended for dashboard mounting - those typically use a small copper or nylon line with compression fittings at the ends. Your F.L.A.P.S. may be able to hook you up with the individual parts you'll need to connect it, or you can just buy a "universal" kit like this one: http://www.jegs.com/i/Sunpro/885/CP7554/10002/-1
IMO mechanical gauges have more potential for problems in a VW than they're worth, so I wouldn't recommend a permanent installation - just keep it in the shop for diagnostic purposes.
What's its range? Fuel pressure's typically less than ~5 PSI, whereas an oil pressure gauge for an ACVW should ideally be able to take 65 PSI or so. You should get away with slip-on hose connections if they're tight or clamped, at least for long enough to see if it's going to be safe to drive.
Marc wrote:What's its range? Fuel pressure's typically less than ~5 PSI, whereas an oil pressure gauge for an ACVW should ideally be able to take 65 PSI or so. You should get away with slip-on hose connections if they're tight or clamped, at least for long enough to see if it's going to be safe to drive.
Thanks, the gauge is at the house while I'm at work so I don't know what its range is. Assuming I can use it what's the PSI at idle vs higher RPM?
The gauge only goes to 10psi. I ordered a new 'german quality' switch. If that shows the same problem I'll probably replace the oil pump. OR....I do have a restored type-3 block sitting under the work bench.
Although the pump is one possible cause of the symptom, it's not the only one. I'd rule out problems in the pressure control valve(s) before jumping into replacing the pump. As I said at the outset, sloppy clearances in the engine (loose-fitting bearings, worn lifter bores) could be responsible. I even heard once of someone with the exact symptom you describe who had left a cam bearing shell on the bench when he assembled the bottom end
The new switch I ordered from CIP1 is in and the green light is still on until I rev the engine. This is the same pattern as the new switch I bought last month from a shop in Salt Lake City. I'm using a fuel pump/filter made by EMPI. Could that be the problem?
I know you mean an EMPI oil pump w/filter...don't really have anything to add beyond what I've already said above; to review, if the oil's of sufficient viscosity (and not diluted w/gas) you should have enough pressure to keep the light out at idle unless there's excessive clearance (in the pump or in the engine itself) or oil's getting past a control valve...and the car should not be driven until the issue's resolved.
I bought the 'EMPI oil pump w/filter' at CIP1. I called their help line today. The guy didn't have a ready answer but said I need to take it out and get photos then email them to him. An hour later as I was driving home for lunch the green light came on and never went out til I turned engine off. So I'm back to begging rides from my wife. The bug is in the garage. I get to spend the long weekend working on it.
Yesterday I took out the 'EMPI oil pump w/filter'. Then put in the older stock pump. The Empi gears are 33mm. The stock pump is 29mm, roughly. I can't see anything wrong with the empi pump. When I put the older pump in I turned the crankshaft and saw the two gears were turning. BUT...it made no difference; The green light doesn't go out til I'm revving the engine.
This may be a red herring but months ago I found the switch threads were stripped. I smeared the switch with jbweld, screwed it in finger-tight and left it to harden all night. I've since removed it and put in another switch. The jbweld must have worked as the second switch went in tight.
My plan is to remove the switch and measure the volume of oil that comes out at idle and maybe while revving the engine. If no oil comes out at idle I assume that means there's a real problem somewhere inside the case. Not so???
helowrench wrote:Personally, I would probably be checking to see if the relief valve is not sticking.
How would I test that? Drain the oil then unscrew the big plug near the crankshaft pulley? In the past when I've done that the spring and little piston come flying out.
