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Well I took a race car and made it a street car ,, so it can be done in reverse too
like Art/clone combo Roy at Mofoco will steer you right , he's has some nice heads
the FK10 cam will do this ,with some 1:4 rockers ,easy and easy on the lifter bores too that's a plus

Clonebug wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 8:08 pm Well.... not trying to burst your bubble but seeing how your first engine only lasted 1000 km....which in amerispeak is 620 miles.......you got a lot of learning to do and building something with 300 hp is going to cost you a lot of dough in a short time if you treat it the same.
A 300 hp vw engine is not easy to get and if it is N/A it is near impossible without a very extensive budget.
Even 300 hp from a turboed engine is not going to be cheap. Tune it wrong like your first one and it's going to hurt.
But go ahead and dream.......

My opinion for a build...

78.4 X 92 TW
Good rods.
300 duration cam with .530" lift using 1.4 rockers
6500 rpm
17-20 lbs. boost
Intercooler and/or WI to keep IAT's to 95*F max.
Stage II clutch but will need a darn good disc setup.
Transmission with a lot of goodies in it.

I was stupid, thats why I broke my last engine. I had only 4 dowel crank with 8 dowel flywheel and thought it would be fine but ofcourse it broke...

I like 'stupid ' that's why I had my flywheel 'wedgemated' to the crank,, you may want to look into that

Yes it can be done I have a 1303 that fits your description, i street drive it whenever i want to, use it for commuting to work and back regularly for over 2 years now and it makes about 350hp on normal supermarket available petrol at 17psi boost, would be nice to use E85 but its not available here at pumps any more .
To get it to live you need to build it with decent parts, heads need to be a strong casting, to many heads out there that will crack or seats & guides come lose with long term heat from boost, it doesn't need to be crazy expensive parts wise though at a real 300hp, and you don't need thickwall cylinders, at that level they are just a bandaid for poor tuning.
I would advise on getting a wedgemated crank/flywheel[yes you can get away without this but it will help it live longer with the regular stop light abuse and allow some security when you decide to turn it up more;) ]
For me it would have to be IRS rear suspension as 300hp is stupid fast on normal roads, you will be doing 130-140mph easily with out even thinking about it and IRS gives better chance to keep it on the road!!!!

Talk to Jussi and the guys at kuplapaja, they have lots of experience and am sure will help guide you through some of the pitfalls.

cheers Richie

Richie, what would you consider good heads? That has been a discussion around here for a while. Seems like we hear good and bad about every manufacturer. It's hard to filter out the limited real life knowledge from the crap.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 7:15 am Richie, what would you consider good heads? That has been a discussion around here for a while. Seems like we hear good and bad about every manufacturer. It's hard to filter out the limited real life knowledge from the crap.

What power level & bore?

For this application I would be using CB comp eliminators, yes they have slightly less fins than a regular head but have more material and with E85 less fin isn't so much of a problem

cheers Richie

You think a 136cc port volume is ok for this sort of engine?!
I think he was talking somewhere around 78x92 - 78x94, 300ish hp.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 9:44 am You think a 136cc port volume is ok for this sort of engine?!
I think he was talking somewhere around 78x92 - 78x94, 300ish hp.

I only see him mention a 2110, maybe i missed him say he wanted a 2074? I see other suggest it, Original question is

What would around 300hp Type 1 streetable engine need? Is that even possible?


how do you get 136cc port volume?


cheers Richie

richie,uk wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 8:16 am

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 7:15 am Richie, what would you consider good heads? That has been a discussion around here for a while. Seems like we hear good and bad about every manufacturer. It's hard to filter out the limited real life knowledge from the crap.

What power level & bore?

That question from me was in reply to your question, nothing to do with original posters questions, I can't make a head suggestion to you without knowing what you want from it and how it will be used

Well right now I only have couple of AS41 cases that I could maybe use after some machining and stuff but I'm open to everything I have not made any decisions on engine size etc. Just want to know what would be "the best" option for me without having to rob a bank haha

I want my engine to perform decent on the streets, does not need to have a "perfect" street power curve with low torque or that kind of nonsense.
I want to be able to drag race it and also cruise down the streets without too much heat issues. It needs to be able to do road trips to events and shows.

Just for villemil's sake.......what size engine is this ? EFI most likely ? Intercooler or ? TB size ? Header size ?

richie,uk wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 6:43 am Yes it can be done I have a 1303 that fits your description, i street drive it whenever i want to, use it for commuting to work and back regularly for over 2 years now and it makes about 350hp on normal supermarket available petrol at 17psi boost,

I was just talking with Anthony from here (you may remember his flat black car) and he runs those comps. Says he makes boost around 2700 rpm with a T3 and .64ar with 4" downpipe. Revs to 7500 according to him. He also runs E85 so the heat issue is less a well.

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 12:02 pm I was just talking with Anthony from here (you may remember his flat black car) and he runs those comps. Says he makes boost around 2700 rpm with a T3 and .64ar with 4" downpipe. Revs to 7500 according to him. He also runs E85 so the heat issue is less a well.

How much power is he putting down to the wheels?

My apology for the confusion. I figured most were recommending something in the 78x92 - 78x94 range. So if we are talking in the 82x90.5 range would the suggestion be much different?
Here is where I saw the 136cc port volume. That may only be for the CNC version. I don't see a specific port volume on the non cnc.
https://www.cbperformance.com/Cylinder- ... 7.htm#CHFC

villemil wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 12:14 pm

buguy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 03, 2021 12:02 pm I was just talking with Anthony from here (you may remember his flat black car) and he runs those comps. Says he makes boost around 2700 rpm with a T3 and .64ar with 4" downpipe. Revs to 7500 according to him. He also runs E85 so the heat issue is less a well.

How much power is he putting down to the wheels?

He doesn't know. He can't seem to get it tuned well and had clutch issues on the dyno. 280 to the wheel is the best he could get on the dyno, but has since went to RLR dual disk.
He has 44x40 valves. Web 86b cam.