Questions on building an engine, 1776 or 1835

[Clatter]

A 1776 with an Engle W110 cam could provide a nice bump in power over a stock motor,
Even with heater boxes and stock sized valves.
Get a set of dual dual-throat carbs, and it will make it have better manners around town, as well as a decent boost in power.
Either 40 Webers or 36 Dellortos would be perfect.
These carbs take away a bigger cam’s tendency to be somewhat cantankerous when driven slowly like in a parking lot or traffic.
A W110 is really a pretty tame cam..
A better ignition, a proper extractor exhaust, and a set of ported stock-valve heads?
The little old lady from Pasadena will have nothing on you!

Here’s a good read for you.
I always buy from aircooled.net because they don’t sell any cheap junk parts like SO many others do.
https://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance-engines/

A stroker crank and big heater boxes and you’re getting into a pretty serious performance level I don’t think you’re really looking for.

If you really want to build the motor to be smooth and last,
Have Jose at DPR sell you a pressure plate, flywheel, crank and pulley all spin-balanced as a matched unit.
This being a stock-stroke factory forged VW crank with counterweights welded on.
It will be 8-doweled, but you won’t use those unless you’re doing burnouts..
Just in case, i guess, right?

A set of professionally ported heads, often called ‘super stock’ with stock valve sizes would be a great match,
And provide full longevity/reliability.

So,
Let us know if you have any more questions.

There are a LOT of options as well as opinions,
But know that most of the people building these motors are mostly interested in a lot of power and/or drag racing.

You will be very surprised how much you will gain with even a mild combo like i describe here.
Reliability and longevity are all in the details regardless of the power level.

[Speedy]

Clatter, thanks for the reply. I am only a few miles outside of Pasadena, Texas that is. You summed up what I have attempted to say. I doubt I will do burnouts, don't want to wear out my white walls. I am reading more, asking more questions and learning a lot. As you might expect, engine building is new to me. I know I can assemble one, as I have one in my Ghia now that I assembled. Building a non-stock engine for a purpose opens opens up a world of possibilities. I am back on the fence between to 1776 and the 1835, but leaning towards the 1776. I will use a stock stroke crank, no need to add more confusion for me. I still think I will purchase heater boxes with larger exhaust. unless there is a reason not to use them. I know I will lose most of the heating you get from stock heater boxes, but as I live in Houston Texas, this should not be a real issue. Of course as I am writing this we are headed into a few days of freezing weather. I know we will not be as cold as other parts of the country, but for me it will be cold. I do intend to purchase a set of heads that have been ported and an exhaust system that allows the engine to flow properly. after I decide what to purchase a will list it and ask for feedback, before I order any parts.

I sure appreciate all of the replies and hopefully I will have an engine ready to build soon.
Speedy

[dstar5000]

1 1/2 heaterboxes, W-110, W 042 HEADS(40 x 35.5) AND 90.5 WILL BE GREAT IF YOU ELIMINATE GASKETS AND SHIMS AND GET TO AROUND 8.3 CR AND RUN AT LEAST MID GRADE GAS.

IT WILL DRIVE LIKE A MODERN Car and will be able to get out of it's own way!
<3

DON

[Speedy]

Don, thanks for the information. My apologies for the delayed response. We had a little winter storm and I have been helping friends and neighbors. Also went without power for a while. All is OK now. I am not sure what gaskets and shims you suggest eliminating. Also I currently use premium fuel, so I will continue. It is good to know I could use mid grade.

A friend of mine gave me a stock VW crankshaft. I will take to a shop near Houston to have it inspected. If it is good I will have them balance it.

Thanks,
Speedy

[dstar5000]

HEAD GASKETS AND BASE SHIMS ON THE CYLINDERS...

DON

[Speedy]

Thanks Don. I did not use head gaskets on my first engine. I did use shims to set the compression. I just wanted to be sure. Most of this is still new to me.
Thanks,
Speedy.

[Speedy]

Hello all. I stopped at the machine shop and had my crankshaft checked. The machinist said it was good. He then informed me that if I bring him a flywheel, clutch and pressure plate he would balance them as a unit. Now my question is, should I use a lightened flywheel or a stock flywheel? As I expected there are those who say yes and those who say it is not necessary for my application. As I will not be racing are doing burnouts, a stock flywheel will by OK.

I appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Speedy

[Bad Bob]

Stock weight.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I run a 12# flywheel and for what I use it for it is OK but if you are more of a "cruiser" and do some long distance driving especially on the freeway I would stay stock or pretty close to stock.

The main reason is holding speed constant vs. constantly speeding up and slowing down in speed on long drives. A lightened flywheel can make it harder to hold the same pressure on the loud pedal so the RPM changes can get touchy hence the speed changes up and down hence getting riders motion sick RALPH! (in places the word Ralph or Ralphing means "coughing up your cookies" or barfing)

It also can be hard on the clutch disc as engaging the clutch can be a bit different for some people (slipping the clutch).

Lee

[Speedy]

Thanks for the feedback. I will use a stock flywheel. Back to the machine shop, then on to ordering parts.

Thanks,
Speedy

[Clatter]

Having everything balanced as a unit is a beautiful thing to do..

If you plan on revving it above 5500RPM or so, and want a bit more longevity and smoothness, you might consider starting with a counterweighted crank.
Couple hundred bucks.. But if you're having it all balanced as a unit, might as well, right?
Either way, make sure to bring in the pulley, and the gland nut, pressure plate bolts, etc.
Make it easy for them to assemble everything and they'll likely be better able to concentrate on the job at hand.
Lightened flywheel will often be used with a counterweighted crank;
The extra weight added to the crank will offset the effect of lightening the flywheel.
For a stock crank stay with full flywheel weight.
With a counterweighted crank, a 12# or 12.5# lightened flywheel will drive nearly the same as a stock setup.
(No barf bag needed)

[Speedy]

Clatter, thanks for the advice. I had my crankshaft checked by the machinist at the machine shop and the person I purchase parts from, he also repairs VW. Both said the crankshaft was good. If it had not been good I would have purchased a counterweighted crank as you suggested. I had a flywheel, but we found a blemish where the oil seal rest, so I purchased a new flywheel, gland nut, clutch, pressure plate and bolts. I took all of the parts to the machine shop to have everything balanced. Based on all of the replies, I think I am on the right path to a good reliable engine. By the way, I don't think I will be revving above 5500 rpm's, at least not intentionally.

Thanks,
Speedy

[Phil69]

I'd stick with a standardish cam maybe go with a w100.
Twin carb linkages are expensive but you get what you pay for. Personally I build my own as I don't have the spare $200 for a cb performance or Gene Berg set up.
As far as carburation goes I would go with a pair of weber twin 40's (genuine if you can find a set). Failing that a pair of solex 40/44s.
You can run a svda distributor but I'd be looking at an MSD or similar ignition system.
Vintage speed do big bore exhausts that incorporate heat exchangers but I personally would opt for one of the Chinese made diesel heaters and save yourself about $500.
Don't go for r9 fuel hose you will be replacing it every 3 years. Use teflon over braded hose with quality end fittings if you can.
Good luck and remember it's supposed to be fun

[Lingwendil]

my 1776 runs a CB2239 cam- almost a (better) clone of the Engle W100. It has plenty of power and runs so stong you'd tink it was a much larger engine. My previous 1776 had a W110 and I like the 2239 much better.

DPR 69mm crank
12# DPR flywheel
AA90.5 piston/cylinder set
vintage speed "sport" muffler, heater boxes
Steve tims 37x32 "superstock" heads
Dual kadron carbs, 30mm venturis, modified by me for vac advance
Late Bus 205S SVDA

Very responsive to driving style- it'll tear around corners like a bat outta' hell, or gingerly putt-putt around in commuter traffic. Great mild strong combo. Perfect fit for all-around driving in my 73 Super Beetle.