Re Ferbing my 1911 turbo.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

That sounds good.
Has the case not shown signs of end float with the pressure plate pressing on the flywheel.

I'll look into a sandwich plate for sure. Be easier that way.
So no cooler in a dog house fan.

I understand that the thermostat built into the plate will open at 80 to flow oil to the cooler

Is your external cooler fan wired into another electric thermostat that's fitted to the sandwich plate.

I would like to get rid of the cooler in the shroud for many reasons.
less piping
Easier install
Less money
Better cooling on number 3

[wreck]

No problems with main bearing wear . I don't hold the clutch in at traffic lights etc . I have a thermo switch on the engine side of the first cooler , 2 small coolers either side of the trans that are fully shrouded with cut down 4" bilge blower fans . Oil gets to temp pretty quick and stays between 70 to 90C . Some like warmer oil temps , each to their own .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

OK cool. I've placed an order for a dog house shroud. I'll change that for a standard one.
My idea is
Use the sandwich plate. Pipes out going to the 96 row coolers that's positioned far back behind the wheel. It's a speedster Rep, so, the bodywork does sweep back a good 2 ft from the wheel. Positioned upright with fan, and a steel mesh to stop stones etc. I'm Hoping 2 coolers will be enough. Its not an everyday car, but I would like to be able to go on a long journey with it. I'm gunna be spending alot of tin making tinware work, out of 2 sets of top tins, plus make tins that separate the exhaust from the top half of the bay.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi. So these sandwich plates with the 80 degree thermostat . I take it, the oil heats up. Circulates around the engine/filter, the oil gets to 80, triggering the thermostat to open in the sandwich plate, sending oil to the coolers. Once this happens. The coolers fill up and circulate. Turn the engine off, then the oil filter with anti drain back valve holds the oil in the coolers, stopping them draining back into the engine.
Just thinking out loud here.

[wreck]

to a certain degree , there is a small amount of oil that flows to the coolers when cold but basically you re correct . it does hold oil in the external system .

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

That's good. I want to avoid having the oil light going out 20 seconds after the engine has started

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Would you advise lightning one of those 200mm conversion flywheel's. A think there a bit lighter already.

[wreck]

All depends on driving style , if you pick one up they feel heavier than you would expect but the weight has been removed from the outer section where it makes the most difference.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

The A. I version of the perfect weight is 11 to 12 Lbs. I'll weigh it and see how far out, or close it is to 12.ta

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I've got the new to me crank case now. A CE code one. In standard bearing size. The bearings that came with it have a good squish fit, so I'm happy with that. I'll have it measured though. There some time serts needed, and 1 head stud has cracked, leaving 1 inch sticking out. I'll weld a nut onto it a, and see if that does the job in getting it out.
There's always something to be done on these parts, as there getting on a bit now aren't they.
I've used a good cleaner on it Today. Better than petrol and a brush. It's called Elbow grease. A yellow liquid in a spray bottle.

[Bruce.m]

On my last case clean i used wheel cleaner. The non acidic stuff that turns purple as it breaks down deposits from the pads etc. That did well as a 2nd stage (after water & detergent, and before a brake cleaner wash)

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Good to know of other products. I've got these clean now, but some machine work needed, so more clean and rinse Wil be needed

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Taken the case to the machine shop. The main journals are in spec. Standard size. So that's a result.
I got the snapped head stud out. That wasn't easy.
Found some main bearings
Standard
0.50
Standard thrust.
So. I've now nearly got a full combo of parts.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Centre main shuffle pins.

Do the people of the type 4 forum believe shuffle pinning the centre main saddles on a type 4 case a worthy modification. It's a costly job.
Thanks

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

No reply on the shuffle pins.
I guess it's not a good mod. I'll leave it.
Update.
I've got the rods done.
ARP bolts fitted.
New small ends
Oil notches
Balanced.
Rods are quite involved. The time needed to get a set ready is well, alot. Unless you've done a set you wouldn't know.

Crank next. Needs to go from 0.25 mains to 0.50 mains due to no 0.25's availabile. Bugger.
Pins just need a polish.