Well , sort of : a generator doesn't charge at idle so you'll need to step up the idle a touch to test it in this manner . be aware when you disconnect it and it stays running , it's charging and all is cool , DO NOT re-connect it ! the resuling 'spike' in the charging current can and will damage your regulator ! this is also true when testing alternators , that's why it's good practice to always disconnect the ground cable first , if you're testing you just tuck it down behind the battery , no shorts to worry about whilst you're going to cut off the key .
I know VW. gen. bearings are a standard part , the same (I think) as older GM alternators , should be #203SS and most parts places stock them . be very carefull when removing the old ones , it's really easy to damage the armature windings . you must also be very carefull to look at the bearing spacer rings as some new bearings have the spacer machined as part of the inner race and if you don't remove the old spacers the end caps will not slide on far enough - you find this when you try to assemble it all again . just use a bit of pipe or tube and a hammer to drive the new ones on .
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-Nate
Filth & Greed Imports
(the LAST honest VWshop)
generator light on
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fastmatt1
- Posts: 228
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
generator light on
Well I haven't been out there since a couple weeks before christmas.....it's time! I am going to screw with it tonite when I get home from work. what are the readings supposed to be with a voltmeter?? any other ideas?
Matt
Matt
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rich2481
- Posts: 1539
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2001 12:01 am
generator light on
Harborfreight.com has good DMM ( voltmeters ) for cheap, everyone should own one and you can test the voltages without all the unknowns. Check the grounds too. Sounds like bad connections if you just pulled the engine ,or the wires are connected wrong, should have a unregulated "DC" current coming out of the generator before going into the regulator.
watch your fingers
watch your fingers