John C's Supersquish Pistons

[MagOO]

Why do so many people think a stroker is so much more??? If you are upgrading to a c/w crank that is 100-150.00 bucks right there a stroker adds, what, another 200? Big deal! clearancing? Not that much and then shims and that's about it . Oh yeah a 1915 runs good but 400.00 bucks a 2165 or 2276 runs better! And you can pick up bargains on good used strokers too! Think of those guys going to 2276 or 2332 ...they may have old stuff cheap...last week a good Berg C/w stroker went for 100.00 at Kelly.....Good used p/c that need hone and rings? try 40.00 for hone and 10.00 bucks for a set of new take off s from someone going to the zip zam stuff....Voila! stroker p/c's fopr 50-70.00 ....As the guy from the fast food place said...Think outside the box....

[MASSIVE TYPE IV]

Look into a set of nickies or Birals to go with those pistons, it's be a iller street car with them.

------------------
Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

[ANT]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MagOO:
Why do so many people think a stroker is so much more??? If you are upgrading to a c/w crank that is 100-150.00 bucks right there a stroker adds, what, another 200? Big deal! clearancing? Not that much and then shims and that's about it . Oh yeah a 1915 runs good but 400.00 bucks a 2165 or 2276 runs better! And you can pick up bargains on good used strokers too! Think of those guys going to 2276 or 2332 ...they may have old stuff cheap...last week a good Berg C/w stroker went for 100.00 at Kelly.....Good used p/c that need hone and rings? try 40.00 for hone and 10.00 bucks for a set of new take off s from someone going to the zip zam stuff....Voila! stroker p/c's fopr 50-70.00 ....As the guy from the fast food place said...Think outside the box....<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I beg to differ, if you really wanna do it "right" you need to support the added airflow by going with big valve/ported heads and of course a larger exhaust.

Then there's the issue of sheetmetal needing to be molested to fit (on super strokers anyway). What about needing to increase the cooling system? Have you priced one of the 911 fan conversions? Yikes!

Where does the money stop? Speed costs money, how fast you wanna go is directly related to your wallet.

Sure you can buy used parts, and I do whenever I can, but you can spend forever waiting for that killer deal. Sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet and buy new.

I humbly suggest that a 1914 is the overall best bang for your buck without going nuts, and without the need to reinvent the wheel in the process (uses mostly stock components and drops right in)
-ANT

[Steve Mariott]

Ant sez...

"I beg to differ, if you really wanna do it "right" you need to support the added airflow by going with big valve/ported heads and of course a larger exhaust.

Then there's the issue of sheetmetal needing to be molested to fit (on super strokers anyway). What about needing to increase the cooling system? Have you priced one of the 911 fan conversions? Yikes!"

I don't think Magoo is talking about a real outrageous 2liter build here... just changing some components to get some more CC's.

Well, figure that anyone who builds a 1915 and expects to make a little HP is going to be using big valve, ported/polished heads anyway, along with a larger sized (1-5/8") header. I don't know anyone who has built a 1915 w/stock valve heads or a small exaust.

I built a mild 2liter T-1 and the stock sheetmetal fit fine with a little tweaking here and there. It's not until you get into the really big strokers that it becomes a real issue. Cooling system, keep everything on the "mild" side of the build and run a doghouse and a 912 fan pulley.

Just my opinions...

[ANT]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Steve Mariott:

I don't think Magoo is talking about a real outrageous 2liter build here... just changing some components to get some more CC's.

Well, figure that anyone who builds a 1915 and expects to make a little HP is going to be using big valve, ported/polished heads anyway, along with a larger sized (1-5/8") header. I don't know anyone who has built a 1915 w/stock valve heads or a small exaust.

I built a mild 2liter T-1 and the stock sheetmetal fit fine with a little tweaking here and there. It's not until you get into the really big strokers that it becomes a real issue. Cooling system, keep everything on the "mild" side of the build and run a doghouse and a 912 fan pulley.

Just my opinions...[/B]<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I understand what you am saying, but there have been 1914 SP engines built, right Jake

I'll try and make my point again, dollar for dollar, you can't beat a 1914!!!!! Sheeit got me a DMS Cw'ed crank for less than $80 with Std journals, hell, that's about the price of a regular local rebuild of a bone stock crank!

If there's a cheap way to do it (without sacrificing quality) you can be assured I will search it out like our armed forces going after Dust Bin Laden!
-ANT

[69bug4me]

Hey Stripped you could probably get some of Shad's cylinders and have them bored and honed to your spec's.

[Stripped66]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 69bug4me:
Hey Stripped you could probably get some of Shad's cylinders and have them bored and honed to your spec's. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Right now, it looks like the ticket. I'm gonna start saving my pennies now!