ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

Speaking of...Just what is the oil groove supposed to do? I figured it was there for a reason, but never knew why.

Bill

[-casehalves Permatex Aero 3H

-sumpplate(s) Gaskacinch

-headstuds in case Locktite 609

-headstuds/nuts/washers in head 3h

-case studs/nuts/washers RTV

-rockerstand studs 609

-valve covers Gaskacinch

-push rod tubes Good seals only

-fuel pump 3H or gaskacinch

-gen/alt stand 3H or gaskacinch

-oilcooler/adapter none

-oilpump to case RTV

-oilpump to cover Gaskacinch

-full flow fittings 609 on pipe fittings

-oil filler type 3 and 4 (+universal case)

-oil pressure switch 609

-gallery plugs Loctite, forget #

[/B][/QUOTE]

The oil pump has two "sides". The suction side and the pressure side. When oil is cold and the engine is revved up, the pressure is enormous - hundreds of lbs. The groove is machined into the mating surface for the cover and is connected to the suction side of the pump. Hopefully any pressurized oil that bleeds through the thin paper gasket will be drawn into the suction side before it gets all the way through the gasket (and leaks onto the ground). Its just leak insurance.

have you guys ever used Three Bond 1211? Its a lot better than permatex or rtv which are both affected by fuel. I have used this stuff hundreds of times on two stroke motors. Its a little pricey at $15-$20 a tube, but worth every penny.

------------------
http://home.earthlink.net/~randode/index.html

red spray aviation stuff works great just about everywhere from top end up on all gaskets and a better then stock breather system is a must on any motor

I use the 1211 it is the best stuff in the world i will always use it.....untill i find something better.

my 1915 was built and use that stuff and i have not leaks at all!!!!

great stuff

Luke

------------------
If its not broke don't fix it, but if it can be made better by all means do it!

The best reason I can think of to read a forum. Jack

Randode wrote:have you guys ever used Three Bond 1211? Its a lot better than permatex or rtv which are both affected by fuel. I have used this stuff hundreds of times on two stroke motors. Its a little pricey at $15-$20 a tube, but worth every penny.

------------------
http://home.earthlink.net/~randode/index.html

That depends on what RTV you use. The permatex ultra series is not affected by fuel.
But....I'm intrigued by a product I have never heard of or tried. Thanks for the tip! Ray

Ray, you sure know how to bring a thread back from the dead.

But since the recent attention in the other thread, I see how it is warranted.

I have really grown to hate pretty much any RTV type product, and have gotten to where I am using Aero grade hylomar more and more. the aero hylomar acts like a better version of permatex aviation grade (3H)

but I really contend that keeping it leak free comes down to mostly suface prep, suface prep, and finally, suface prep.

If I do a half ass job cleaning it, it does not matter what I put on it, it will leak before too long.

Rob

helo, I am pretty sure surface prep is a bit more imporant than you are making it out to be .

great thread, is it a sticky yet? I am gonna say that if you are only going to use one sealent all around, my favorite is permatex ultra black. I nice super tacky and easy to apply silicone. oil proof, and I do belive fuel proof. now if it only came in fool proof, I would be drip free

britegreenVWSB wrote:Here's a question for all you experienced engine builders out there. I'm getting set to assemble my first stroker motor (a 2110). I have assembled a few T1 motors in my life, but I have yet to put one together that never leaks oil, from anywhere, despite how careful I am to try and build one that doesn't leak. It would be nice if this 2110 actually didn't leak. Is it possible to build one leak-free? If so, HOW???? Gracias!

TG

Not unless you put a crank seal behind the pulley.