New Subaru EJ20T project...

[junkyardoval]

I have just reinstalled the engine and trans in the Oval. I moved it forward 4 1/2" and up 3". The belt covers clear the rear sheetmetal by 1/2". When I get the rear coilover shocks mounted and everything set I will see how much clearance I have under the sump. A friend of mine has a 2.2 Suby in a Vanagon. He cut the sump and made it shorter and wider. I works just fine.

Ernie

[trevor_brady]

The don't have a website. It was Rich Olafsson who gave me their details, he spotted them in a European VW mag. I have their telephone and fax numbers.
The big problem is the guys there don't speak English and I don't speak German. Alex Neiderfahrenhorst over at germanlook.com was very helpful at the start, acting as translator for me, and towards the end, I typed my questions in English into babelfish and got them translated to German. I then printed out and faxed the results to get a reply by fax from DS which I put back into babelfish to translate to English!!
It wasn't ideal, but the message got through and enabled me to tell them what I wanted, send the money and them to find out some tech details about the engine/gearbox and make the kit accurately!

The details are:

DS Tuning
Dollhoffstrasse 17
48911 Lingen
Tel 0591 74737 (international 0049 591 74737)
Fax 0591 76940 (international 0049 591 76940)

hope this helps!!

trev

[trevor_brady]

I have just reinstalled the engine and trans in the Oval. I moved it forward 4 1/2" and up 3". The belt covers clear the rear sheetmetal by 1/2". When I get the rear coilover shocks mounted and everything set I will see how much clearance I have under the sump. A friend of mine has a 2.2 Suby in a Vanagon. He cut the sump and made it shorter and wider. I works just fine.

Ernie

Ernie, do you have a bone-stock rear valance or has it been cut away for extra clearance?
Did moving the transmission up by 3" still necessitate the cutting out of the centre of the torsion bar?
How are the CV joints looking now they're 4.5" out of line?

trev

[benj]

Junkyard,
I was wondering if you had pics because I've got a similar project. Yours is the EJ20TT right? How much have you had to cut away to clear the turbos on both sides?
-benj

[junkyardoval]

The CV's seem to work fine. With the axles installed and the rear tires off the ground nothing binds or makes strange noise. I can also roll the car around with the same results. I moved the firewall forward 14 inches to the back of the rear seat. This gives enough room for the turbos. The exhaust on the passenger side will be close where it hooks to the turbo. On this side the turbo is about 3 inches more forward than the other side. The inner fenders have been cut out. I hope to reshape and replace these to keep dirt and water away from the engine. My father-in-law will be here on Saturday with his digital camera. I will get some good photos. I had already cut the torsion bars before deciding to raise the engine. I raised it to get ground clearance. I will look to see if it would have gone above the bars.

Ernie

[Guest]

updated:
http://homepage.eircom.net/~veewrx

[volkdent]

Looking Awesome! Should be a kick in the pants when its done. What are you thinking as far as intercooler is concerned? That's one of the problems I'm mulling over now, two small ones in the front of each rear fender a la Audi TT or one big one in a wing across the back a la Porsche Turbo.

Jason

[Richard Olafsson]

Looking good Trev

Rich

[junkyardoval]

I like your idea on the engine mounts. Good thinking

Ernie

[Guest]

Looking Awesome! Should be a kick in the pants when its done. What are you thinking as far as intercooler is concerned? That's one of the problems I'm mulling over now, two small ones in the front of each rear fender a la Audi TT or one big one in a wing across the back a la Porsche Turbo.

Jason

dunno, was thinking of either setting up ducts to collect air at the front of the car, and sending it back through the heater channels to the intercooler, or Mike Ghia suggested doing the dame, but through the central tunnel.

Another option (also put forward by MG) would be a chargecooler. I'll have to do some more homework!

I'd like to keep the intercooler/chargecooler as close to the stock position as possible, to keep the volume of the system to a minimum...

[trevor_brady]

sorry, that "guest" is me...

[Richard Olafsson]

Go with the chargecooler like I did Trev, it is ready for upgrade then when you decide you want more boost!

Rich

[volkdent]

Let's clarify. I only think of intercoolers(inter=between turbo/supercharger and engine-cooler=temperature decreaser) I think of water/air and air/air intercoolers, one transfering heat to water, one transfering heat to air. I don't know what a chargecooler is, so that one is new to me. I like the idea of an air/water intercooler for this application because it it will keep the length of the hoses shortest and therefore decrease the amount of pressure drop in the air cooling system. From what I've read though, air/water intercoolers are far less efficient that air/air intercoolers. It has been pointed out that the air/water variety is more consistent because the water can absorb so much heat although it is very much more complicated to install. I just don't know if there is a clear winner and if there is not, than an air/water intercooler would be the best for our application. Anyone out there an intercooler specialist?

Jason

[Richard Olafsson]

Normally air/water intercoolers are referred to as chargecoolers and air/air as just intercoolers.

The differences can be debated forever, but when it comes down to it the water has a greater heat capacity so is best fro short power runs and then dissipates this heat under lighter throttles. The air to air isn't as good at rapid changes but will work better for constant high boost conditions (circuit racing etc etc).

Hope that helps!

Rich

[trevor_brady]

updated: engine in, body cut to make room, all fits within stock body panels...

http://homepage.eircom.net/~veewrx