Shoptalkforums.com

i'm not into T5 but i used to space out T1 bearing with those rings.
if you need a "spaced out" T1 style bearing for other applications you can do with one of that rings. it's only an educated guess for this applcation.

I know this is an ancient thread, but some correction is needed...

A 914 flywheel is forged steel (At least all the 2.0s) , and only needs the ring gear trimmed back to work in a T1 case.
(Dimensions all work out otherwise)

It allegedly "just works" if using an 091 bus box (or at least bellhousing), which sorta makes sense, as it takes the same starter as a 914.

Also, the 228mm late bus/WBX flywheel forks just fine in a 914 after installing an input shaft bearing.

So putting a stock journaled type 1 crank in a 1.9 case is done how? I'm lost!

andy198712 wrote:So putting a stock journaled type 1 crank in a 1.9 case is done how? I'm lost!

You buy the custom #1 main bearing from Rocky, and assemble as usual.

For a later WBX, Marcos first post covers it.

Given the availability of forged T4 flywheels from Kennedy and a few other sources,(some are even decent quality) the "weaker" connection is arguable. (Kennedy has ALWAYS been able to make you one, I'd personally rather spend the extra $50 for something that actually fits...)

I have seen many a 8 dowel setup die, and the "secret" reality is the 8 dowel FW and crank are wed for life.
Replacment flywheels are ~never made with the same jig and not drilled/reamed at the same time is a given.
Sure folks have replaced many a FW on an 8 doweled crank, but it ~never fits exactly the same.

I have seen T4 flywheels shear off with no crank damage.
(usually due to folks using 914 bolts that were too long for a Bus FW, admittedly)

A T1 stroker crank is cheaper, and you probably have one.
Both are valid reasons to consider goin' there, but consider the cost of the custom bearings over the cost of just getting the proper crank.

Andy what case you got? if you have an early 1.9 case, you could use a T1 stoker crank with T4 mains, the rear main is already T4 , just line bore for the remainder. if you have a late 1.9 case , than all the above is valid for the that 'b' case, its the same as 2.1 with the 3 piece no 1 and the extra stroke clearance over the early case, tho' ive run 82 stroke in early cases easy.

It's a 1.9 dg.... Guess I need to find out the numbers On the side to see if its early or late yh?

I've got an 82 t1 that is DFL coated as it happens but unsure wether to use that or use the wbx crank as its ment to a lot better.....? Your thoughts?

Thanks pile, so good info to chew over....

The part number ends in B meaning its late right? So could drop in a 2.1 crank?

If I am not mistaken you can drop in a 76mm (2.1) wbx crank either way.
(can be offset to ~80mm with 2" "chevy" (actually buick) journals)

The main difference is the 1.9 case uses an actual T4 #1 main, and the 2.1s use the 3 piece with steel thrust plates.
(looks like a much better setup to me, but OTOH the only time I have seen a t4 thrust fail was from having zero clearance AFAICT)

The late I.9 are not T4 rear main, theyre 3 peice. all 'b' cases are the same 1.9 or 2.1 .

Cool thanks guys

So mine is 025 101 102B

Which means I can drop in a 2.1 crank yeah?

Just have to find the bearings or see how the used one are and maybe DFL coat them....

I don't know if this solution has come up before but you can do it with type 1 bearings,
my WBX/OXY case is align bored & cut to +1.5mm and 20mm wide thrust flange.
No more mixed bearings, just buy the correct bearings to match your crankshaft
big end dimensions. I'm currently building a odd 82x98 combo with old skool CB crank
and Eagle H-Beam VW rods from the past...