Royal Purple oil...

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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

"I BUST mine, so you can wipe yours"

You should put that on a T-Shirt. :P
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
wblue
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Royal Purple web-site

Post by wblue »

Royal Purple has an extensive web site with lots of explanations and answers.

http://www.royalpurple.com/index.html

One interesting thing, it appears Royal Purple recommends using conventional oil for break in or at least until the rings seat.
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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro »

I make the same recommendation to my customers. Once you are sure everything is seated and well broken in, then switch to Royal Purple or your choice of synthetic. I try to aim for the 10,000-15,000 mi drain intervals with frequent filter changes, but sometime's it not possible. It's key to use a very, very good oil filter with an extended drain interval. The mahle filters are pretty much done at 5k miles, as are the bosch branded filters. Pureolator Pure one filters are great at high-filtration, but their media is too tightly packed and can restrict flow as it gets full, so those get dumped every 3k miles. The only filter that I have seen that is good for the 10k or 15k drain intervals (depending on filter size) is the Mobil 1 filter (manufactured for mobil by champion). K&N's Gold filter also provides excellent filtration. Both units cost about $10 at your local flaps (autozone). I am monitoring how long it takes for my Mobil 1 filter on my Honda 2.4 i4 (which the filter is about the size of a motorcycle filter) to loose full filtration and so far i'm at 5k miles and the Royal Purple is still clear purple. :-)

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
4getaboutit
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Post by 4getaboutit »

Does anybody use Mann filters. Thats what my local VW shop has.
MASSIVE TYPE IV
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Post by MASSIVE TYPE IV »

Yep, its all I run on non full flow set ups..
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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro »

I believe they are the same build quality as the mahle and bosch filters. I wouldn't be suprised if they were all from the same manufacturer. Don't get me wrong, they are good filters for having non-synthetic meda.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance
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davygrvy
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Post by davygrvy »

Any word on the Amsoil SDF-15 filters for full-flow?
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cnavarro
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Post by cnavarro »

They are also an excellent filter, although you need to double check the application(s) for each filter with Amsoil or your Amsoil rep. They are equivalent, if not better, than the Mobil 1 filters, from a filtration standpoint. The K&N filters have the highest burst pressures and should have excellent filtration since it's a synthetic media element like the Mobil and Amsoil.

Charles Navarro
LN Engineering
http://www.LNengineering.com
Aircooled Precision Performance

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dstar
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Post by dstar »

The turbines I used to work on had pressure differential gauges, and would alarm if the difference went over 15 PSI.

These could do the same for our bugs!

Then you just run the filter til it pops the alarm, and then change it!

Just make sure you have the dif set at a few PSI LESS than the dump valve in the filters.......
:wink:

But those were like, $150 bucks each......
:roll:

Gotta give it to those suppliers that screw the Govt's pocketbook...
(YOU AND ME!).

Don
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

Mann filters are made by Mann and Hummel. They are a big time industrial filtration supplier. Automotive is probably the smaller part of what they do. The Mann and Hummel dealer rep drops by on a regular basis to most of the larger printers I work with. They stock hundreds of filters for printing press, gear box oiling systems.

They may sell media to Bosch and Mahle....who knows...but its doubtful they manufacture for them. But...you never know. Ray
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Ephry73
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Post by Ephry73 »

Ok, with all of this info, then what weight should I be using of this synthetic for the hydraulic lifter setup I have? Just curious.



Ephry
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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

I'm using 5w-40 Rotella-T syn, but whatever you use, change it frequently.
Hydraulics HATE old oil. They also seem to "like" 5W on startup.

My Vanagon with >240K miles had pretty bad (intermittent) lifter noise when I first got it @207K.

It once made the noise for up to 5 minutes on start up.

I ran a can of Berrymans B12 before oil changes, and changed the oil every ~1000 miles (using Rotella-T 15W-40 dino oil) 3 or 4 times, and then switched to Rotella-T syn.
I change it about every 7K.

Problem dissapeared during/after that, occasionally clatters for a second once a week or so now on cold startups.

I run the adjusters at 1/4 turn past contact. YMMV.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Ephry73
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Post by Ephry73 »

Can't hurt to try it. My cam is new, and so are the lifters. I am currently running 10-20 Castrol GTX oil. I want to switch to synthetic. I purchased four quarts of Mobil Full synthetic to make the switch with, but looks like the royal purple will get the call just to try.






Ephry
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