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Bruce,
Thats good to know!
The people that don't believe in cryogenics have never seen it's benefits first hand.

I don't think I can brave it enough to go without at least checking them.




E

It's easy...

With chromo pushrods the valves are tightest when the engine is cold... If you fire the engine up and it skips and bucks a bit, or even pops its a hint hat the valves are tight.... If this goes away as the engine warms up (and gains valve clearance) its a clear sign that they are tight.... Then you check them..

BUT if they clatter and rattle- they are loose..

MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:Look into DLC coating.... It imbeds in the material and is just as hard as a diamond, but not brittle at all.. we have used it on valves and reduced stem/ guide wear to near zero...

BUT its VERY expensive.....

Yes, the EFI made a huge difference in my engine, temps were the biggest- In the past I ran head temps of 325 al the time, now I run 275.

Jake sorry to get back so late, could you pm me who does this for you? I would like to get a quote on it. This is one of our biggest problems with our production line. As well as one of the biggest contributors to quality problems. Blade changes take about 6hours so anything that would help with these fronts may make it cost effective to do so.

http://www.casidiam.com/index.htm
Been working with these guys for a while on aircooled profiles.

Call and talk to George Barr- He is the man..

This is NOT cheap- 8 valves, 4 wrist pins, 8 retainers, dizzy drive pinion and 4 rocker shafts cost about 1200 bucks- Surface prep is extremely important as it requires a mirror finish to adhere/imbed correctly.

This stuff KILLS wear- period.

MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:It's easy...

With chromo pushrods the valves are tightest when the engine is cold... If you fire the engine up and it skips and bucks a bit, or even pops its a hint hat the valves are tight.... If this goes away as the engine warms up (and gains valve clearance) its a clear sign that they are tight.... Then you check them..

BUT if they clatter and rattle- they are loose..

I did notice when I went from lash to zero lash, the cold idling was a bit rougher for the first 15 sec. No big deal, you just get used to it.

Jake thanks for the info, I will give them a call. I think this might be cost prohibitive, because I firgure its based on weight.. and with 280 lbs worth of blades it would cost more than everything combined.

Thanks again I will give him a call. I will report back what he tells me.

Have you tried this on any tooling? I would be curious what the results would be.

Jake you're not wrong about the surface prep. also make sure theres are no oil grease on anything. We have had a few problems with coatings flaking off cams, not good when they are rotating at 10000rpm.
kit

We could not get the DLC to adhere to a cast iron camshaft blank... The billets are too porous to polish high enough. The same happened with cast iron lifters.

Surface prep is paramount.

if your parts don't look this good they are not preped good enough

Those cams aren't cast. Through hardened toolsteel,vibratory polished etc.
Looks very similar to those rocker shafts on the diameters...and the lobes.
kit

I knew your cams were not... just ours