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That sounds correct to me. If you have any radiator, that is not new, have it pressure checked before you throw any more money at it. I have seen so many bungs, the top or bottom (or both) tanks leaks also; also the straps are or come loose because of abuse.

Lee

So, I got the LED setup. And like that previous thread, I am not getting any flashes or anything. Gonna let it sit overnight and see if it starts working like it did the last time. No idea.

Also found out the alternator I have isnt working. One thing after another. lol


I did fine one huge intake leak. There is a line underneath the intake after the trottle plate. Uhg. I plugged that. Now the car will barely run. It "cycles" badly. Revs up, slows down. And sometimes dies. When I try to start it now, it takes like 10 seconds of cranking before it will start. REALLY weird for EFI.... Really puzzled. Oh, and still tons of smoke when I blip the throttle.

Well, after letting it sit overnight I am still not getting the codes. No blinky light! I suppose I am going to register on a couple of the ford forums and be doing some searches today.

As always, suggestions and comments welcome.

fordfuelinjection.com ?

Ryan is less than responsive, but maybe you can find helpful info there. 5.0 SEFI conversions are quite common in Early Broncos, so you might try classicbroncos.com. I *think* that you can search a forum using google wit the "site: xxxx" syntax instead of needing to register. Worth a try.

RyanB wrote:Well, after letting it sit overnight I am still not getting the codes. No blinky light! I suppose I am going to register on a couple of the ford forums and be doing some searches today.

As always, suggestions and comments welcome.

Can you set any codes? Unplug several sensors like the coolant temp, Map, TPS and see if it sets the codes. If you can't set codes then you are not communicating with the computer. Your going to have to get your hands dirty to find the problem. Are all the grounds good? What year 2.3 fuel injection is this? Do you have a wiring diagram for it?

david58 wrote: Can you set any codes?

None. When I start the test mode, it lights up and no flashes after that.

david58 wrote: Unplug several sensors like the coolant temp, Map, TPS and see if it sets the codes. If you can't set codes then you are not communicating with the computer. Your going to have to get your hands dirty to find the problem.

Well, I cannot get closer to the computer. I ran directly off the wires coming out of the computer. Triple checked I had the correct ones according to my wiring diagram.

david58 wrote: Are all the grounds good?

All grounds are new wire and cleaned contact points.

david58 wrote: What year 2.3 fuel injection is this? Do you have a wiring diagram for it?

The year is somewhat murky...
This is the diagram I am using: http://www.stormseeker.org/VW/Baja/wiring.jpg

I think what David is wanting you to try is to deliberately unplug an important sensor, and then start it. By doing that you'll know for sure if you are not getting the code flashes, or if there aren't any. It would seem that by the light flashing that all is correct, but try his idea anyway. Might yield something useful.

ntsqd wrote:I think what David is wanting you to try is to deliberately unplug an important sensor, and then start it. By doing that you'll know for sure if you are not getting the code flashes, or if there aren't any. It would seem that by the light flashing that all is correct, but try his idea anyway. Might yield something useful.

Thanks. I'll certainly try that when I get home. However, if everything is "ok", it's supposed to flash code 11.

here is a wiring diagram for a turbo mustang that might help a little.

FWIW the eec IV ECU commonly used in the 5.0 SEFI swaps is the A9L or the A9(P?). I'm not sure what the turbo engines would've used, but there are a lot of them and they're all subtly different in what is enabled and what is crippled as well as the obviously different fuel and ignition maps.

There are several devices made that intercept both the input and output signals to allow you to do a custom tune with a download from a PC. One has a name like "Quarterhorse" and the other goes by the name of "Tweecer". From what I understand the Tweecer was the first, but the "Quarterhorse" has some advantages over the Tweecer.

There is also an eec IV list out there somewhere, though in my absence they may have gone to a forum. If you find yourself against a wall they might be the resource that you need to sort it out. Way back when I was on that list there were guys messing with the direct code so that they could use the eec IV ECU to run engines that Ford had no idea existed (slant 6 Mopars, 3.5L Rovers, etc.).

OK... So, to be safe and sure I've run down the following list:

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=44

I have a problem at the very end...

•Turn key ON with engine OFF and computer reinstalled. Measure voltage between Pin 26 and 46 (voltage reference and signal return) must be between 4.0-6.0 volts.

Ok. I did that and Zero voltage. If I ground my meter and try the Ref Voltage(26) I get the required 5v. However nada when meter is grounded to Sig Rtn(46)
Now, I wanted to make sure that nothing was interfering. I unplugged _everything_ except the computer and power. Same issue with no sensors plugged in.

•Measure resistance between Pin 46 and Pins 40 and 60 at the computer harness, must be less than 5.0 ohms
Infinite.

Considering that 46 is Sig Rtn for all the sensors and it is unable to get to the grounds of 40 and 60, I assume my computer is dead or dying. It's just weird that the thing will run. Just badly. Flabbergasted.

Well, after thinking about this issue today... I thought well the LAST test says I should have less then 5 ohms resistance from sigrtn(46) to pins 40 and 60. Well 40 and 60 are simply grounds.

For the heck of it (what did I have to lose at this point right?) I went ahead and simply grounded 46.


She purrs like a kitten.


Granted, this isn't the way it should be connected, however if it will run ok until I get a replacement computer that is all I really care about. Now I have to take care of the alternator problem and I think I can take her for a spin! Yea!

RyanB wrote:Well, after thinking about this issue today... I thought well the LAST test says I should have less then 5 ohms resistance from sigrtn(46) to pins 40 and 60. Well 40 and 60 are simply grounds.

For the heck of it (what did I have to lose at this point right?) I went ahead and simply grounded 46.


She purrs like a kitten.


Granted, this isn't the way it should be connected, however if it will run ok until I get a replacement computer that is all I really care about. Now I have to take care of the alternator problem and I think I can take her for a spin! Yea!

LOL, i've done that before, or piggybacked off of one signal return to run another.. At least you can drive it now.

Let me know the numbers off the computer, I'll see if we have one for you at work.

pretty sure its a Br549...

867-5309?