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Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.
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david58
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Post by david58 »

Skidmark wrote:David58Bug - I am not sure how beneficial that would be... if it is weight that needs supporting, the vertical axis carries a much greater load than the horizontal axis. Since I have tied the ends of the trans forks into the upper cage, extending the lower cage tubes further forward would not really buy me any increased load support that I can see. Another reason not to send them that far forward would be the loss of ground clearance - I am already sacraficing some clearance, it would make it worse going farther forward away from the rear axle centerline. It would increase the chance of high centering on something. Am I understanding your idea correctly?
Yes you are understanding it correctly. In the pic the lower engine cage is lower than a stock VW. I thought if you tied it back into the torsion tube at an angle not sacrificing ground clearence it would make the frame horns stronger.
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CopperBaja
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Post by CopperBaja »

I think he's sacrificing the ground clearance due to the subie, right?

I would think there should be at least bracing in the end of the frame horn area to the cage.... But I'm not an expert. It just looks like a place that you should brace. (angled from rear toward front)
96 Pathfinder 4x4 - Family Offroader - 6" "Lift" (2" coil lift + 4" Sub-Frame Drop)
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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

I don't know looks pretty good, has about 7 & 5/15ths out there but that looks good to go.
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CopperBaja
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Post by CopperBaja »

Leatherneck wrote:I don't know looks pretty good, has about 7 & 5/15ths out there but that looks good to go.
Did you buy one of those Oklabamasaw tape measures too? :lol:
Last edited by CopperBaja on Wed May 09, 2007 5:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
96 Pathfinder 4x4 - Family Offroader - 6" "Lift" (2" coil lift + 4" Sub-Frame Drop)
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

Okay guys... here is a better pic showing the supports I tied into the upper cage. They connect the trans forks to the upper cage. I can't run tubes from the end of the trans forks forward and up due to the needed clearance for the axles. I appreciate your ideas, but I have thought long and hard on how much to add/how much is too much. Lots and lots of staring (with a beer in my hand...).

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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

CopperBaja :wink:

Skid your good, guess you could gusset and plate it maybe let getrdone weld some titaniamal gold lick on it for good measure :lol:
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CopperBaja
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Post by CopperBaja »

Here's where I was speaking of...
Plan for the worst and hope for the best. I was thinking that if you were hit from the rear (which is the most common accident) that all of the pressure would be routed to that part where it's welded to the bottom of the frame horn, which could be the weakest point. I would think it should be gusseted and braced to spread out the force of impact. This area won't affect the axle clearance will it?

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96 Pathfinder 4x4 - Family Offroader - 6" "Lift" (2" coil lift + 4" Sub-Frame Drop)
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

From the side view, I will add a tube from the end of the trans fork down to the new "S" bend, to box that section in. That was already the plan. Going forward to the torsion housing isn't going to happen.

I broke out the welder after work today, and got all of the rear light mounts welded on. I am thinking of adding a smaller diameter tube to surround each brake/turn light for some added protection there.

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"Your car sounds angry, and it wants to go fast all the time..."
(quote from my daughter, after driving my car)

It's not complicated, it's just expensive...
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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

I thought you would have a blue dot for sure. How about using flat stock for light protection, easy to bend and pretty stout for that use.
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

Interesting idea. I was thinking like 1" diameter tubing, but I would need to bend it some how. If only I knew of a way to bend tubing without having the right size die... :wink:
"Your car sounds angry, and it wants to go fast all the time..."
(quote from my daughter, after driving my car)

It's not complicated, it's just expensive...
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takotruckin
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Post by takotruckin »

lets make it easier, steel rod
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CopperBaja
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Post by CopperBaja »

Leatherneck wrote:I thought you would have a blue dot for sure. How about using flat stock for light protection, easy to bend and pretty stout for that use.
I've been told by some Harley guys that the CHP really don't like blue dots for some strange reason. :?
96 Pathfinder 4x4 - Family Offroader - 6" "Lift" (2" coil lift + 4" Sub-Frame Drop)
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I'm not a big fan of blue dot tail lenses. I never have been...
"Your car sounds angry, and it wants to go fast all the time..."
(quote from my daughter, after driving my car)

It's not complicated, it's just expensive...
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

Alright - I cut and fit these this afternoon. They are not welded yet. But I think these will strengthen up the rear cage mounts.

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Just behind where the weld seam will be are the Camburg tube clamps. Everything behind that point unbolts. That way the motor and trans can come out on a floor jack. My only concern at this point is not melting the urethane mounts. The upper joints may need to be welded very slowly to let the heat dissipate. I want to get it welded without pulling the motor and trans.
"Your car sounds angry, and it wants to go fast all the time..."
(quote from my daughter, after driving my car)

It's not complicated, it's just expensive...
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bajaherbie
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Post by bajaherbie »

i will finally be able to get a good nites rest knowing that skid has tied his engine cage to his framehorns...... :lol:

looks good skid, maybe have a squirt bottle of water to douse the urethane mounts while you weld it up? weld, squirt, weld, squirt, weld, squirt, etc.....

and skid, don't forget a skid......... :lol:
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