1641 Turbo EFI Manx. 250Hp/337Nm Turbotub

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I think I get it. It uses a hydraulic damper to slow the return of the clutch pedal (the engagement of the clutch) in 1st gear. Brilliant!

Interesting unit. Back a couple of hundred years ago when you "dropped the hammer" at high RPMs, the clutch engagement was an immediate shock load. "Deck shifting" then come in and it was for the same/similar reason... no reengagement of the clutch once contact was initially made. A lot of trans and other parts could be quickly dam(n)aged.

On my lightened flywheel (I forget how light it is (now [15# I think]) but it is light and RPMs quickly and is combined with a 4-puck clutch disk. With my setup, "Slipping the clutch" can destroy a flywheel face very quickly. The sand dunes where I ride the loading on the drive system is pretty constantly under load/drag.

Haven't been on the drag strip or even talked to anyone who now does for probably pretty close to 40 years now.

Lee

[my_medusa]

Bus plan is off the table for a while.... various reasons.

I´m allready thinking of the dragrace season for 2024.

This winter I´ll fabricate a wheeliebar. Thinking of going 1 wheel and triangle setup from frame horns and top-back of rollcage with maybe a shock absorber on top.

Other than that, since I removed my sway bar in the front it needs an allignment on the front and 1 new steering rod that´s worn/slightly bent.

Also want to try the clutch dampner.





I made a 1.0 version but intend to make one like pictured above.

Any toughts on pro/con on 1 wheel wheeliebars?

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I would try Others Things First before going Wheelie bar....
With that kinda Wheelie bar you Transfer more weight in the rear,even far behind the Wheels. So weels come Up earlier and in high Speed you also have less pressure on the Front Tires.
What about:
-weight in the nose
-Stiffer Schocks in Front
-Lowrring the Front
-Heavier Tires in the Front
-Clutch slippage..chims under the pressure Plate
- less boost on the First Meters and ramp IT Up or start with less rpm/ boost
Problem is, you have a very light Front and your engine has alot of Torque in a kinda small rpm Window... I would flatten that Torque curve for the 1/4 Mile in the 4300-5000rpm range.
What is your Transmission ratios and tire size?

[yvre]

The final result, could´nt be more happy.





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Hi Ruben.

Fantastic result! Thank you for keeping us updated.

[rubenski]

Not much going on with the buggy over here, weather turned colder and rainy...

Gave my campingtrailer a complete overhaul, new floor, removed one of the storage trays so I can load it up easier with camping equipment and painted the underside, topped off with a layer of underbody protection.

Cleaned out the garage after I put it in storage for next vacation.

One thing I did do for the buggy is buy the wheeliebars I had on it last racing season. 175€ (200$ I think)
I was going to make them myself but it would be much more expensive then using those that allready fit.



A few weeks ago de also did some road tuning and cleaning up the maps for the higher boost.
(It had only seen tuning on the dyno)

Cleaned up garage:




Camping trailer inside:



Underside:



Life has been good, my grandmother turned 100years old



With the mayor:


And I´m busy getting a new big upper leg tattoo.

So yeah, life is pretty good.

Can´t wait for the racing season to start!!


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[rubenski]

Bus plan is off the table for a while.... various reasons.

I´m allready thinking of the dragrace season for 2024.

This winter I´ll fabricate a wheeliebar. Thinking of going 1 wheel and triangle setup from frame horns and top-back of rollcage with maybe a shock absorber on top.

Other than that, since I removed my sway bar in the front it needs an allignment on the front and 1 new steering rod that´s worn/slightly bent.

Also want to try the clutch dampner.





I made a 1.0 version but intend to make one like pictured above.

Any toughts on pro/con on 1 wheel wheeliebars?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A528B met Tapatalk

I would try Others Things First before going Wheelie bar....
With that kinda Wheelie bar you Transfer more weight in the rear,even far behind the Wheels. So weels come Up earlier and in high Speed you also have less pressure on the Front Tires.
What about:
-weight in the nose
-Stiffer Schocks in Front
-Lowrring the Front
-Heavier Tires in the Front
-Clutch slippage..chims under the pressure Plate
- less boost on the First Meters and ramp IT Up or start with less rpm/ boost
Problem is, you have a very light Front and your engine has alot of Torque in a kinda small rpm Window... I would flatten that Torque curve for the 1/4 Mile in the 4300-5000rpm range.
What is your Transmission ratios and tire size?

Totally forgot to reply,

Gear ratio is stock except longer 4th.

Racemasters 215/65 r15 tyres.

Maybe i can fill up my gas tank more when racing.

But then i think, less weight is better?

Can´t lower the front more.. already dropped spindles.

We will not go on track full boost but gently raise it

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[my_medusa]

At First congrats to grandmother, that is amazing and a Blessing Special to the youngest in the Family.

(For that Money i would have been taking the Wheelie bar too. Well done)
I would put a big weight in Front. You have so much Torque it will not care and the weight will improve handling/breaking on the street too. Start collecting lead, build a form and mold IT in there . I have seen some Buggies with weight in Front for Street use here in Germany.
Winter will be Long

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Have you looked into beam adjusters for BJ and link pin beams. It may or may not work well but they might be worth checkin out.

https://www.bing.com/search?q=beam+adju ... 358937892b

Lee

[rubenski]

I know about them but can't use them because of the tech inspection for road driving.

Suspention must not be able to be adjusted...


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[Ol'fogasaurus]

I know about them but can't use them because of the tech inspection for road driving.

Suspention must not be able to be adjusted...


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That kind of makes sense. Where I am at turning brakes (with exceptions) are not allowed on street legal cars.

Shhhh!!! There might be hidden ways of doing it though, but... I wouldn't try them.

Lee

[Piledriver]

I know about them but can't use them because of the tech inspection for road driving.

Suspention must not be able to be adjusted...


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I guess all the factory made adjustables are OK?
(Porsche 911/914, old Citroens, many modern cars)

With a light buggy a coil over setup with custom damping is probably in order for the front end.
(or are coil overs not allowed?)

When I went insane on my squareback, I gave my closest race shop & Bilstein dealer (dirt tracks around here) vehicle weight, shock geometry, what shock bodies I had (Bilstein SG, modified to take apart) and what springs I was running and they put together a kit for me to suit, was only like $50 US as I serviced the shocks myself.
Used the Bilstein coil over kits for those shocks. The old KYBs became external reservoirs, shortened shock bodies 1 inch...

The rear has similarly reworked Fox 2.0 "truck" shocks (extra heavy wall hard anodized aluminum) with coil over kits to suit.
Was able to get satisfactory results rearranging the original valving.

Springs and damping levels were initially chosen from http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets16.html

[rubenski]

Maybe a full coil over set is overkill?

Maybe a fresh set set of dampners?

What would be a good set?

I have these in the back:



And these in the front:



Kyb´s

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[Ol'fogasaurus]

Where us "around here"?

Opinion: it looks like you have a swing axle setup. On looking for travel I would measure the distance between the rubber stop and the compression of the rubber pad itself and figure out the amount of travel you are dealing with. That would be the setup for the shock travel.

If you have King and Link up front, then stiffen the shock mount on the beam vertically. The measurement concept should be about the same. Something similar for a BJ setup but they are different.

I would also look into the amount of strength the shock would have. Street vs. off-road have different needs so you don't want to stiffen things up too much; some but there should be a limit. I talked directly to the shock maker when choosing mine as street and dune riding are very different travel and travel limits. I would also put compression stops to stop the front end from traveling too much.

I was on the dunes, heading to the ocean, but not going fast when I hit a hidden hole in the trail (blind from the direction we were going) and the shock on the driver's side jammed and wouldn't release. It too 3 of us using different tools to get the shock to finally release.

Lee

[Piledriver]

Based of the first post in the thread, he's in Belgium.

Are the Gaz dampers revalvable? (Great brand I hear but no experience with them)

This issue is that your buggy is a fraction of the weight of a VW beetle, so it almost certainly needs different springs and damping vs a steel bodied T1 for best results. The coil overs are also inherently height adjustable at least.

I ended up using late model Ford bump stops all around, high density foam, made a huge difference on bad roads/speed bumps etc.

I used the (new) Bilstein SG dampers up front and the Fox out back as I picked them up very cheap from a shop where the owner was retiring.
I probably have $250 in my coil over conversion, including springs/coil-over-adapters, revalve kits/needed tools.

I wasnt thrilled with the junk heim ends that came with the SG shocks so I TIG'd on some nice stainless steel/kevlar/teflon units in welded on loops to match, retained by a snap ring so replaceable, added same to top of the Fox shocks as they came with a stud on top. (original use GM 3500 Van, but now total revalve/Likewater fluid)

[Bruce.m]

The Gaz rears are adjustable. Can be revalved too, if necessary.

I really like my full set, although the fronts are set to the softest setting & are perfect (road sporty) so nothing left if you prefer it softer / stock.

[Piledriver]

The Gaz rears are adjustable. Can be revalved too, if necessary.

I really like my full set, although the fronts are set to the softest setting & are perfect (road sporty) so nothing left if you prefer it softer / stock.

You are running a tube buggy, right? Good comparison to his then.

Was mainly trying to get him adjustable ride height and proper spring rate/damping up front.
Those KYB shocks, if for a T1 are way too stiff in my experience, and somehow seem to get worse with age.
...on a buggy they'd be filling removers.

For drag use 90/10 front shocks seem preferred, but I have no idea how they work on the street.