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Piledriver wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 3:17 pm

Bruce.m wrote: ↑Fri Oct 27, 2023 12:59 pm The Gaz rears are adjustable. Can be revalved too, if necessary.

I really like my full set, although the fronts are set to the softest setting & are perfect (road sporty) so nothing left if you prefer it softer / stock.

You are running a tube buggy, right? Good comparison to his then.

Was mainly trying to get him adjustable ride height and proper spring rate/damping up front.
Those KYB shocks, if for a T1 are way too stiff in my experience, and somehow seem to get worse with age.
...on a buggy they'd be filling removers.

For drag use 90/10 front shocks seem preferred, but I have no idea how they work on the street.

I ran 90/10s on the street for years, they were never a problem.

I have a pan car with collcage. Swing axle. Ball joint front beam.

I´m verry happy with the gaz rears so I´ve sent an email to them asking what they can offer.

I didnt see 90/10 on their site.

(To be honest I had to look up what 90/10 shocks were )

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I had them made a pair of coilovers for the front some years back (69 torsion front, without spring plates amd reinforced beam). I am also very happy with the quality, so they made a pair for the front and rear for my 70 convertible too. These came with protection sleeves around the rods. Too bad of Brexit (pricewise).

Enjoy! Mark

Lol, no mine isn’t a buggy hence why I mentioned for me (stock body) the fronts are firm on the softest setting and therefore possibly too much for a buggy

I have the protection sleeves on my rears also but they´re blue and so don´t fit on my red and black buggy.

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Some touch up paint for plastic bumpers might help your sleeves "fit" your red car better?

I´ve sent an email, got a reply.

They seem to do their best to help me out and I think they know their stuff.




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You might want to try a set of stock dampers which (apparently) have 1:1 rebound/bump ratio.

If that improves weight transfer, you could use those for the drag strip & swap out to other dampers for road use.

Cutting down the spring packs might also help a lot, benefit would be an automatic, non-adjustable lowering as well as reduced spring rate.

Less weight needs less spring requires less damping....

Piledriver wrote: ↑Mon Oct 30, 2023 2:25 pm Cutting down the spring packs might also help a lot, benefit would be an automatic, non-adjustable lowering as well as reduced spring rate.

Less weight needs less spring requires less damping....

This is getting into a discussion on beam adjusters or... the ability for the BJ stack to be reduced. I don't think that both the upper stack and the lower stack to be done, only the upper stack.

Do a search on this as I did take some pictures dealing with some of this.
This would be the stops assuming you started playing with the stack of torsion leaves.

I'll see if I can find the rest of the photos as I did have some pictures stolen.

Lee

This is the kit that is/was available.

I'm not sure about the rest of the pix as I can't find that file.

Lee

viewtopic.php?t=136514&start=345

This also has some of the same information. I can't find my pix as I think they were stolen but the ones I was looking for started with the one pix of the center of the beam' shape for the torsion bars to fit through then be jammed in place.

It is possible for some leaves to be removed then the rest locked in place which softens the ride but (or many butt) allows the suspension to drop lower and faster, hence the replacement of the commercial center piece (shown in one shot of the beam) to be added allowing the suspension to be raised or lowered.

A lot of monkeyshines can be done both good and bad so be careful which is why the stops were added.

Lee

The adjuster I was talking about doesn't show up but what does show up is how to change the front from BJ to King and Link or the other way around. The post I added was part of a front beam topic so going through that you may find things. I'll continue trying to find the info assuming I still have it.

Lee

Whether you do one or both probably depends on actual weight of the front end and how low is acceptable...

The bump stop setup I used with the big foam stop would work on KP, T3 or Thing, but for unknown reasons on a T1 spindle the lower ball joint is installed upside down (relative to normal usage like T3/thing/anything else with balljoints), so you are limited to using the shock or straps as the stop? (I think) perhaps they make strap stops with some give?

I'm probably totally overthinking it on a non-offroad ride, they have been running ~stock BJ equipped T1s through Baja since 1966, so it cant be that bad.

It is more than just front end weight. What, when, where what and how all came into play.

Where the fuel tank is one thing plus how much fuel it carries you have to deal with plus how much body, passengers, how hard or bumpy, how big they are, speed and a lot more. Does the buggy have a to (one that will handle loads e.g., glass vs. metal). Suspension front and rear, tires, suspension/shocks and so on. Wheel base, seating and other things all come into play also.

About the time you get things figured out something else comes along and you kind of start over.

Over the years I have seen a lot of changes and people destroy their toys very quickly and sometimes themselves. The good ideas would have been OK it done right, or the good ideas turn out to be not so good or need additional work/things done.

Change never stops!

Lee

They advise me this set, GT6-2302 from gaz

https://www.gazshocks.com/2023/01/05/ga ... 1300-1500/



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