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Yeah, I had a local shop ream the 65 idle jets for me from an extra set of 55s I had. I am not sure they are correctly sized.

The O2 readings hover around 14.2 at idle with the 60's and 13.5 or so with the 65's.

I thought a little off stoichiometric (rich side) was about right for idle, 13.5 seems a little too rich. I can't adjust the mixture screws much leaner at 65's or it starts to miss and hunt a little.

The O2 readings off idle are good too, but there's no load, so it's hard to say. I think I am going to have to get it in the car to fine tune it, but I want to get as close as I can before hand since room (or lack thereof) makes it hard to tune and work on it in the car.

I'll check the size of the 65's and then I'll try again. I've read that 1.6x vent size is a good estimate for jet sizes (at least a starting point) and that puts me at 64 (or 65 I guess).

--Mark

You should be able to get drills in those small sizes at any industrial fastener supply shop, that's what I did and they come in especially handy to check jet size. They come in half tenths (when I bought them), just like the jets.

I looked around locally and could not find any that small.

I looked at McMaster Carr and found them in tenths. They have a 0.06mm and a 0.07mm, but not a 0.065

Jet reamer kit with gauges is probably the best choice for me.

mharney wrote: reamer kit with gauges is probably the best choice for me.

BTW, they are in tenth's of a mm (which is pretty small in itself) and not hundreth's of a mm (that's what metric machinists use instead of 'thou". OK, maybe I got lucky with Spae-naur here in Ontario.

NASA lost a 50million dollar orbiter with a botched imperial to metric conversion, doh!

They aren't jet reamers, but a #61-#80 set of wire drills should be available at any good hobby shop that does trains or RC aircraft.

About $20.

They are good for figuring out what size you have/need anyway.
Get a pin vise too...

This may prove useful, needs reformatted to print right:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/drillsizeconvert.html

Ok.. here is a video of me running it up. In the middle of the video I am giving it a full on from idle a few times and you can hear it bog. Then you can hear it bog after being run up and I let off and give it a little throttle. Other than that it seems to run kick a$$.

You can't hear it well with the mic that is part of my camera but you get the idea.

http://68.102.20.122:81/vwpage/revemup.wmv

Enjoy.

Damn Dude!

You need to eat some fatback or collards or sumptin!


Ya ain't gots nuthing in your back pockets to hold your pants up!

BUWAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHA!

Don't worry, I suffer frum the same disease, No-ass-at-all!
BUWAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

OK, one more time:
BUWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA!



Don

Oh bro, I got a$$ all right.. Plenty of it. The other problem is that I have plenty of everything else too.

Carpenter pants are not exactly form fitting, and dood, you should be looking at the ENGINE, not my a$$.

All that work I did to get the engine out, start it, warm it up, film it and all I get is a comment about my posterior? What kind of people are you anyway? LOL.

On another note, I did the CB Performance Weblink installation right before I ran it today. I am here to tell you that is a very good and highly recommended modification. That thing makes a VERY positive throttle control possible, and makes synchronizing a lot simpler. Running the throttle open from the side opposite the spring is a bit shaky, and this made a good bit of difference. Having the springs and idle speed screws on the correct side is not only handy, it also helps unload stress on the left side throttle shaft. Besides that, if you have ever installed a linkage kit for a set of straight manifolds, the one that requires the offset shaft on the left side carb, this helps keep the throttle arm from bending too, since this replacement throttle arm is much more rigid, and does not succumb to the nasty moment about the hole in the throttle arm that causes them to flex and bend. GET ONE!

watched the vid... sounding good, really reminds me of how my squishy motor sounds when free revving and idling. Could a velocity stack help that bog..? it revs pretty good at first, but then back to idle, another rev and she starts bogging like it running out of gas..I wonder if it is a jet prob.. like goes lean? Does it run good when cold and start acting up when it warms up?

giving me the willies watching your arm with that semi-baggy jacket getting close to the fanbelt area...

BTW, I backfired the hell outta the squishy motor yesterday..like a real gunshot. stupid 3/8" tubing to AN6 hose fittings SUCK... the rubber insert thingie gets twisted/mashed when tightened, tears off and clogs the filter up with rubber crap! here I am trying to rip some ricermobile and bigtime lean at 5K in 1st gear .. "POW!" X 3 .. WTF???!!

Personally I like your hat.

Carbs sound like maybe they need a bit more syncing.Bet your excited to stuff that monster in the bug and spank it!

I do have velocity stacks on the engine.

If anything it's lean, because it runs too lean cold, and when it warms up it's better.

I'm really beginning to think that I am going to have to go up a jet size. No telling what the mains will need yet. Fortunately those are a lot easier to change when the engine is in the car.

I've got about 12 threads showing on the ends of the accelerator pumps too. I turned them in a couple turns each, and it helped a little.

31 times the video has been downloaded, and one person comments on my butt, and I get one constructive response. That's just sad.

if it almost stalls when returning to idle, that means it's too rich.

John
Aircooled.Net Inc.