I removed this little valve and tossed in a 3/8 npt plug
the coolant manifold I flipped it 180 degrees, This brass deal is for my autometer temp gauge a tube was there originaly so it had to go. I tapped it out with a 3/8npt and in went the sensor
hi, good work so far, but just a couple of observations
sorry not trying to have a go but have you done much research on theses engines?
cos the thing you removed off the inlet manifold and plated over is actually the Idle air control valve.
your engines not gonna run without that, its what controls the idle speed and its a very important part
the barb you removed off the manifold is the PCV connector valve.
its probably not as critical as long as your venting all the hoses that connected to it and not blocking them off
and the tube that you blocked off on the coolant manifold is also very critical,
its part of the thermostat return line.
its fine to block if off like that but you need another one to from the coolant manifold back to the waterpump return tube
Buggin_74 wrote:hi, good work so far, but just a couple of observations
sorry not trying to have a go but have you done much research on theses engines?
cos the thing you removed off the inlet manifold and plated over is actually the Idle air control valve.
your engines not gonna run without that, its what controls the idle speed and its a very important part
the barb you removed off the manifold is the PCV connector valve.
its probably not as critical as long as your venting all the hoses that connected to it and not blocking them off
and the tube that you blocked off on the coolant manifold is also very critical,
its part of the thermostat return line.
its fine to block if off like that but you need another one to from the coolant manifold back to the waterpump return tube
without this your engine will overheat
The idle control valve is not needed I am running an aftermarket ECU
and the cooling will be fine all I need is an inlet(at the water pump) and an outlet (manifold)
I had called outback motors (wich is now outfront) many times asking them whats needed and whats garbage on this engine.
butt thanks for trying to lend a hand
I bought the EMS stinger 4424. For the intake manifold I only need 5 ports. one port for each. fuel regulator, wastegate, blow off valve, boost gauge and map sensor on the ecu. on my manifold I have 3 ports for vaccum hoses so I could make that work for the 5 things I plan on using. I was told by outfront motorsports that the two hoses coming off the water pump are not needed and can be yanked out, tapped and plugged.
well I am wiring up the engine to my ems stinger and have a question, on my crank and cam sensors they have a white and red wire. wich wire is the +12 and wich wire goes to the ecu as the sync and trigger.
Well today I about finished the wiring. I have two more wires to hook up on the LC-1 wideband. Now I gotta start working on the coolant lines and fuel supply. I am trying to shoot for next week for the first start up.
Well today I had the first go at trying to get this thing to start. I hard wired the fuel pump to check for leaks...no leaks. I calibrated my sensors. checked to see if I am getting spark. Then I cranked on it for a sec to see if its getting fuel. and it tried to start. I think its overfueling. I ran out of daylight so tomorrow we will see how it goes. Man this is exciting