Crankcase Breathing

Scott Novak · Post by **Scott Novak** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:23 am

I received an answer to a number of questions that I sent to ET Performance.

They made it clear that they don't want oil getting into the Krankvents, as it would weigh down the internals of the Krankvent and make it less effective. They suggested using Krankvents mounted 6" to 10" above the valve covers.

However, I'm not ready to give up on the idea of using Krankvents connected through hoses to the top of the crankcase. It might mean using a pot scrubber in a mini-oil separator which is then connected to a Krankvent.

Scott Novak

Post by **Piledriver** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 10:33 am

On the T4s I have considered making a much bigger filler "can" by cutting/extending the stock one. (maybe liter sized)

Mounting would be the only 'engineering" required, as it is currently retained with a bail, like a valve cover.

Will probably wrap it with insulation.

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Sun Jul 13, 2008 10:15 pm

Ack! I got lower tins in place, and i just switched to Kadrons, with their stock supplied air filters.

So i set up my oil tower breather through a bugpack breather box and the side fittings to the tops of my air cleaners. Well now i am leaking oil out of my dip stick tubes!

Had 0 leaks before switch over to Kads! At the same time i re-re-tourqed my heads and adjusted valves.

Post by **FJCamper** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 10:30 am

Hi Sinister,

If you're venting through just the stock VW port beside the oil filler cap, it is not enough, especially with dual carbs now.

It's not the carbs themselves that cause the leaks. It's that the carbs allow you to rev quicker, and that makes more crankcase pressure.

Vent your valve covers to a breather box.

FJC

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:53 am

i guess thats what i will end up doing today!

Thanks!

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:04 pm

Wow its worst than i though... at just a lil above idle oil will just spill out of the dipstick tube if the dipstick is out. Take the oil fill cap off and all is good. I got valve cover vent just need to put them on. I did tap my fuel pump block off plate and have that line T with the filler neck line to the brether box. still wasnt enough!

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 5:35 am

Leakdown test...

Post by **FJCamper** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:18 am

Hi Sinister,

Piledriver nailed it. You've got too much crank pressure, and that comes from ring blowby.

Venting will help, but I'll bet you have a couple of stuck compression rings.

FJC

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:53 pm

relativly new motor. any Easy fix to stuck rings?

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:44 pm

sinistervw wrote:relativly new motor. any Easy fix to stuck rings?

New P&L or (just maybe) rehone/rering.

Are the kads running really rich by some chance?
Oil smell like fuel?

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Wed Jul 16, 2008 3:49 am

I just changed the oil, and havnt put more than 5 miles on it since then because of the leaking.

Old oil did smell like fuel a bit.

Kads running strong, no rich spots. have it set per aj's instruction w/ max squirt just backed off slightly (accel nut turned in). Stock out of the EMpi box jetting.

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 12:02 am

well a hone and re-ring did a lot to help! Now i have my breather set up from kad air filters to valve cover vents. Oil pump block off and oil tower breather Tee together and run to carb balance tube with a 2,78mm bleed orfice in the Tee at the tube. Carbs only needed a little re-tune, and it all runs good and breaths good...too good! allready sucked a valve cover gasket. permatex them in place till i can braze some tabs on the valve covers!

Thanks guys!

Post by **Piledriver** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 6:29 am

sinistervw wrote:well a hone and re-ring did a lot to help! Now i have my breather set up from kad air filters to valve cover vents. Oil pump block off and oil tower breather Tee together and run to carb balance tube with a 2,78mm bleed orfice in the Tee at the tube. Carbs only needed a little re-tune, and it all runs good and breaths good...too good! allready sucked a valve cover gasket. permatex them in place till i can braze some tabs on the valve covers!

Thanks guys!

If you suck too much vacuum, the crank seals will literally scream if you don't reverse them... Managed to find that out messing around the other day. Sounded like an AC belt squealing...

Mind you I was adding a krankvent style check valve to the late Mk1 Golf PCV setup, with no purge flow... (Basically same setup as you have but forgot the purge, just looks different)

Was making full manifold vac in the case at idle. (Trying to find a cheap regulator that will allow a regulated vacuum level)

ruff · Post by **ruff** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:37 am

did somebody try to make a breather at the top back of the case?
i mean above rod # 1 ?
if strength is not compromised i think it could be a good idea?

sinistervw · Post by **sinistervw** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:53 am

no screaming sounds so i think its good!
Its actually crazy how much a difference a good setup makes!

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Crankcase Breathing

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