my type 4 2L in a notch build

[supaninja]

[Soul]

As I posted on the other site, sweet!

[supaninja]

Awesome soul, i'm glad you figured out that was a vid.

so i drove her around a bit yesterday, felt good. Still got a few issues, in time everything will be sorted. I did the "Nate style" ears for the type 3 bellows and that works awesome, I was out there trying some different things to get it to idle and I noticed the shroud was ice cold...I think thats a good thing. I'm still messing with the tune, its getting there.

[Tom Notch]

Dang, I got a chuckle out of that!

When I 1st fired my notch up, all the sound deadener was in! That reminds me of my split with the solid mounts and no insulation, and the 230ish motor firing up

I would consider that fire up a success. You shut it down, you learned from it, and you made it all happen, Great !

Not being familiar with the MS interface, is there a "home" button? A single key stroke that takes you to the exact spot in the map that the engine is running running at?

(Mental note to self: Talk to the locals....Mario and crew)

I'm dragging the laptop out and doing some tweaking in the next two weeks......after the two new windows for my bathroom get installed

[supaninja]

you got to open the VE fuel table and there is a dot that will follow the engine through the engine as it goes through the fuel map. I have been tweaking it, its running a whole lot smoother now.

[Stufenheck]

Congratulations on getting your engine going.
After going over your build notice that your using Bugpack quiet pack muffler. When I use this muffler in my on type 4, found it to be restrictive. The quiet pack develop a hot spot and burn the paint of center area. I actually end up using Bugpack glass pack muffler before having a custom exhaust fabricate in 2006.

[supaninja]

Ya, the paint is bubbled on the middle of the muffler. I'll try to find a better flowing muffler that will fit back there, maybe a magna flow.

[supaninja]

screw that other vid, this one is better http://blip.tv/file/5104938

I think I figured it out for real. The inj plug for #3 was screwed up and just needed a little tweaking on its contacts. I just got back from driving the crap out of it and oh boy its running great. Still needs lots of tuning, I'm having trouble with idle until its all the way warmed up, then its fine. Thanks for all the help guys.

[kombi211]

nice i've been thinking about going EFI with my typ4 motor when i am ready to squeeze it in the square...

[supaninja]

nice i've been thinking about going EFI with my typ4 motor when i am ready to squeeze it in the square...

Do it dude!

[Munchhausen]

Do it! Do it! Do it!

[Piledriver]

nice i've been thinking about going EFI with my typ4 motor when i am ready to squeeze it in the square...

By all means, do it!

No squeezing required, it fits like it was meant to go there.

If it's a swing axle already 12v converted it will essentially bolt in, only needing a fan<>bellows adapter made and a 210/215mm bus flywheel with a $6 pilot bushing installed for the input shaft. (reaming required, $20-40 depending on the day, arriving at a machine shop with a pizza right before lunch does wonders)

Mines a late IRS car, it was still NBD mounting it, used the bus bar and modified the bus end mounts, bolts to original mount holes.
The nosecone mount could be beefier...

[supaninja]

If you got a swingaxle the easiest way is to get the KEP conversion FW/clutch combo. If you do it like pile recommends with a 215mm bus FW, you need the pilot bushing and you'll need to convert your clutch TO bearing/arm/guide to a IRS style one. aircooled.net has the guide that replaces the input seal. Its just a lot simpler to do the KEP conversion f-wheel.

Also I found out the type 3 rear engine hanger needs to be completely removed. Mine was partially removed and i still needed to bend it clear the shroud durning install. Other then that it was very straight forward, very little trimming on the tin. It fits pretty good and most peeps think its stock.

[Piledriver]

Thanks, I brainfaded on some vital details.
I gotta sleep, the exhaust/tires back on the square, ran out of time yesterday.
The silly alt idiot light still doesn't light up like I think it should, but the alt works fine, but not without it.

Gotta find a 96-2006 GM C or K pickemup to check how it works.
(hard not to see a few in a parking lot here)

[Munchhausen]

.......... you'll need to convert your clutch TO bearing/arm/guide to a IRS style one.

Had a lot of fun with that. I have an early IRS "without" bearing/arm/guide and did it the pile-way with a 215mm bus FW.
Everybody told me that it will work with IRS but I didnt know about the reason: "bearing/arm/guide". I didnt know that there are clutches with and without at all. Wanted to drive down the road the first time . After pushing the clutch pedal two time I got bad noises from the gearbox .You can push the clutch as often you want and everything is fine up to the point where you doing it with a running engine. Found the bearing hanging around lose. Thought I had made a mistake during assembly. Next try the same Pulled the engine out about five times this day, before asking the internet to find the bearing/arm/guide-thing. Then i used the guide that replaces the input seal which I never got really sealed. It was a bad machined part from a local bug-shop.
I ended up with second gearbox with a stock bearing/arm/guide. "150Euros"

If you dont know somebody who had done that before and can provide you with the small but important informations the easiest project can be full of painfull learning.