The POS is a goer once more..... But....

[miniman82]

Just one thing: filters BEFORE the pump are generally bad, as most pumps are better pushers than they are pullers. I wouldn't be surprized if the pump was running out of head, and cavitating.

[Hotrodvw]

Can't say I agree........any crap going thru the pump can't be good for it. Trick is to use a low restriction filter.

[miniman82]

Anything that makes it through the sock will just pass right through the pump harmlessly anyway, I don't really understand why people get so worried about this. Filter after the pump is what all the OEM's do...

[Humpty]

....I don't really understand why people get so worried about this....

Cause that's what the manufacture says to do.... "Warranty is void if you do not fit a filter before the pump".....

[miniman82]

Did they also include a part number for a filter they are conveniently willing to sell you? Did Ferdie tell you turbos in VW's was a bad idea too, and if he did, would you heed his advice?

[mike thompson]

Are you able to visually watch your fuel pressure while on boost? Would be a good idea.

[Humpty]

Did they also include a part number for a filter they are conveniently willing to sell you? Did Ferdie tell you turbos in VW's was a bad idea too, and if he did, would you heed his advice?

Please refrain from belittling people if their statements don't correspond with your views Mini... I maybe wrong about this, but you seem to be on the attack an awful lot.... Maybe that's just your way.... But if you haven't noticed, you have put a few noses out of joint over the past couple of years..... I for one value your views on things.... I know you have a wealth of experience to offer, given your profession and all, but you must realise, few of us on this forum are aero engineers..... Some of us do this stuff just because we dig the challenge..... But as always, your advise and constructive input is always welcome....

As for this project.... I have always been led to believe that a quality filter should be placed before the pump..... I have always done this with my NA engines, be they ACVW, Subaru conversions or Bigblock Fords.... But I know this to be a different animal, so things can and will be different.... Obviously you believe that an internal sock to be sufficient.... I do not have one in my tank, hence the use of a pre-filter..... It makes good sense... Now if you believe this could possibly be the cause of restriction, that is ok.... But you are the first in the past 12 months of this project, to bring that point up..... As always, I am willing to give anything a shot with this project.... Only by listening and doing, can a lesson be learned.... I am in the process of upgrading the fuel outlet.... I'll see what I can find to use as a outlet sock and fit that in place of the filter..... Like I said..... I am willing to give anything a shot.

Are you able to visually watch your fuel pressure while on boost? Would be a good idea.

No really possible.... The gauge is mounted on the carb at the inlet....

[Hotrodvw]

Simon, FYI... you can tap the tank outlet for 1/4"pipe thread and install any during you wish, rather than using the stock set up.

[Humpty]

Simon, FYI... you can tap the tank outlet for 1/4"pipe thread and install any during you wish, rather than using the stock set up.

Yeah I have done something along those lines.... Back at the start of this project I modified the the OEM tank outlet to take 12mm OD tube, which is held in place by the stock threaded cap.... Work pretty well.... But I made it a little short at both ends..... If I reuse it, I will add some more length to that fitting and add a sock as Mini suggests... Might move the return to the bottom of the tank with a long section of tube entering the tank, while I'm there...

Will take some pics once I have it all pulled together....

[Humpty]

Are you able to visually watch your fuel pressure while on boost? Would be a good idea.

Been thinking about this..... Is there a way I could fit a pressure sensor in the system that the Megajolt could be hooked up to?... I could then record the pressure variances via the data log....

[turbobaja]

I'm gonna try a digital fuel pressure gauge (autometer iirc) with a sensor mounted in the FPR so I can watch fuel pressure real-time. It looks like some sort of GM 3-wire sensor and goes for ~$100 individually, and works on a 0-5 volt scale (0-100psi). Certainly it or a similar sensor could be wired to your ECU for data loging.

[Humpty]

Here's the latest.....

Got it all back together.... 1/2" all the way.... The only places that are not 1/2" are the inlet and return of the Malpassi and the inlet to the carb....

Tried to get it started this evening..... No go.....

The pressure gauge (which is mounted on the carb inlet) is reading plenty of pressure. Pulled the line to the gauge and ran an extension to a gerry can.... It's flowing plenty..... Pulled the top off the carb.... Float bowl is almost totally dry?.... Jets are dry too.... Blew through the ball'n'seat.... Working fine..... Checked the float level.... Perfect at 10mm....

Any ideas?

Also.... While I have your attention....

These are the inlet in the carb top.... Tiny lil' things aren't they?.... Can I drill them out at all?..... And do you think I should continue to run the small filter that is in there also?

[Hotrodvw]

Weird....if the fuel is making it to the carb, but not into the carb, it has to be around the needle and seat area. Have you run compressed air thru the inlet passage to see if it's open?? Check that needle and seat again too. I don't know that I would mess with drilling the opening. It wireless before like that, it shoild still work.

[Humpty]

Weird....if the fuel is making it to the carb, but not into the carb, it has to be around the needle and seat area.

It is isn't it.... I have blown through the ball'n'seat and moved the floats up and down.... All seems good there.... Will have another look at it tomorrow morning.... It's gotta be something simple.

[Hotrodvw]

Yeah, there's only so much there. One valve, and that's the needle/seat. Is there a way to make sure the float assy is moving freely when it's all closed up?? Maybe something has a snag and the assy is not allowed to drop and open the needle/seat? Just tossing out ideas...