ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:Agree with TB, Dial indicator needs to be perfectly parallel with valve stem. A good way to mount your dial indicator is a plate bolted to the intake bolts.

Did you put any sealer under the head stud nuts?

No I did not put sealant under the head stud nuts. What would you recomend?

Here are my lift numbers with the dial indicator aligned to the valve stem.

#1
Inlet .485" PushRod 27.8cm
Exhaust .488" PR 27.8cm

#2
Inlet .485" PR 27.6cm
Exhaust .485" PR 27.6cm

#3
Inlet .485" PR 27.8cm
Exhaust .491" PR 27.8 cm

#4
Inlet .485" PR 27.8cm
Exhaust .491" PR 27.8cm

#2 was giving me smaller lift numbers originally so I shortened the push rod and lengthened the adjuster screw.

kubelguy13 wrote:

Turbo_Manx_Maniac wrote:Agree with TB, Dial indicator needs to be perfectly parallel with valve stem. A good way to mount your dial indicator is a plate bolted to the intake bolts.

Did you put any sealer under the head stud nuts?

No I did not put sealant under the head stud nuts. What would you recomend?

Permatex aviation sealer or something similar. Oil will eventually leak from the 4 head studs and 2 rocker studs inside the valvecover.

Great build happening here.... Looking forward to the next installment....

Humpty wrote:Great build happening here.... Looking forward to the next installment....

Thanks Humpty. I can't wait for the next installment either. I haven't figured out how I'm going to cut all my pushrods to the exact lengths yet.

I do mine in a lathe.... I mark them then rough cut them first (hacksaw in a vise), then fit them up in the lathe and turn them down to the finished size... Not sure how else you'd do it.... But I'm sure there is a grassroots method out there.

I use a pipe cutter to cut mine, when I cant use Bugformances lathe. Works just fine.

For the cutting, I used a pipe cutter too. Nice, clean, square cuts. Just a little light file work to deburr the cut tube end. You want it nice and flat/square for the end to press down in and seat fully against the cut end without hitting any high spots.

I use an Easton Arrow Cutter, its super cool! Can set any length I want, then repeat it as many times as needed. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=954144
It also has stones for deburring inside and out.

Your build look's sweeet .. ....
As a common practice for me, With a turbo build, I remove the part of the bronze guide that protrudes into the exaust port...Just my 2 cents

Well here is some good news for you buddy! Yours is on the right. Just have to tig it in

Hey Mario.... At what pos (º wise) are you placing the timing wheel?.... ie: the missing tooth is lined up with what point on the timing mark?
I have yet to fit the one you sent me a while back....

How's the drawings?

bender wrote:Your build look's sweeet .. ....
As a common practice for me, With a turbo build, I remove the part of the bronze guide that protrudes into the exaust port...Just my 2 cents

Hey Bender

how do you remove it?With a carbide bit? do you smooth it out flush with the aluminum?

Thanks for the tip

MarioVelotta wrote:Well here is some good news for you buddy! Yours is on the right. Just have to tig it in

Nice work. How much did you have to shave off the trigger wheel to fit my pulley?

kubelguy13 wrote:

bender wrote:Your build look's sweeet .. ....
As a common practice for me, With a turbo build, I remove the part of the bronze guide that protrudes into the exaust port...Just my 2 cents

Hey Bender

how do you remove it?With a carbide bit? do you smooth it out flush with the aluminum?

Thanks for the tip

yep.......Flush....Had some problems....had some unwanted paraphernalia in the turbo.........
Mario.....those wheel's look sick...