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Here are the rest of the pictures for now.

David

wow, what a great fit job! that copper had to be expensive! make sure you do something to insulate the copper around that exhaust or you'll be heating more than cooling.

David, looks great!

Thanks guys. Wasn't cheap. Just over $200 for the piping alone. But they can be soldered using a common gas torch and lead solder. Just like repairing an old copper tanked radiator. Plus the best bit is that since the bends are more compact and shorter than stainless/alloy mandrel bends, I can position the pipes where I want them prior to cutting or soldering. Yes, I will be wrapping the pipes under the engine tinware to reduce heat absorption.

David

The copper looks great! Really different and effective

The upper pipes are now cut to length and painted to match the cross-over inlet pipe. The IAT sensor has been moved to the outlet side of the intercooler and I have made two injector mounts and screwed them in as well. Should show the effectiveness of the water-to-intercooler fitment. If I don't put any water into the system and go for a drive and log the temps, then fill it with water and do the same drive, I should get an accurate view of the difference that this system has made.
The lower pipes have been painted with heatproof black paint and I am just waiting for some exhaust wrap to arrive in the post. Then the lower pipes can be mounted into place. Once that is done, the upper pipes can be attached. Then the two injectors can be fitted and the IAT sensor plug attached.
I have modified a light truck A/C condenser. It had to be shortened so it could fit under the front of the car. It will be mounted under the spare tyre holder (the car is a 1972 Superbug) and also use a 7in thermo fan to cool the core. Hosing will connect the two cores. A bilge pump will be connected to the cool side of the A/C core and will flow the water through the system.
Talk to you later.

Hooroo

David