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What does your deck without shims actually measure??
That's the only true test.
More than .030 run it. Your compression will be lower with more, and don't run any cam much more that a web73 with a 7.3:1 CR.

Strongly suggest the flattops unless you are putting this in a Bus.

.042. No shims.
1977 vw bus aka "Tortuga"

I could have sworn I filled out the "introduce yourself" part.
I'll need to go back and take a peek.

.042 is perfect.
Your piston choice gives you a very low compression ratio, and will significantly hurt your power, and effectively limits cam choices... but... it will run cooler.

You have a bus. Don't use too big of a cam. It will be fine.
Strongly suggest Web73 or 73/86

Attaching a .sig to your posts with short vehicle info or link to your intro might be a good plan.

So my dreams of smoking someone off the line are thworted.

I wondered why I was always white knuckle driving up hills with patient drivers encouraging me by showing me that I'm number 1.
As far as the cam, I severely limited my choices by keeping the hydraulic lifters. I forget, but I think my best option was keeping the lift around 430? I had done a very deep dive into this last year.
The more I looked into gaining HP. The more $$ began popping up ( new programmable ecu, better fuel injectors, solid lifters, etc )
The mileage on all my components is very minimal and I had to make responsible financial decisions with this build since my "financial advisor" is not fond of spending money in this type of manner.

Anyways, Piledriver ( and you Bruce ) both stuck with me and gave me the encouragement that I was needing.

Thank you so much.

I'm sorry if we killed the dream... but you can only get rid of so much heat with iron jugs and aircooled heads.
Even with $$$$Nickies and such has limits on getting the heat out.
Pushing a 1 ton bread loaf around takes HP.

Listen to your financial advisor,and be very nice... You might get some toys for Christmas!

Have a merry one!

I joined the dark side.
My 86 Vanagon gas a 3.6l subaru /6 lump in it.
Hoping to get her back on the road this winter.

Good to hear from you Piledriver.

All points you've made are being adheared to.

I am putting the heads on today

I've learned so much thanks to you folks.

So much to the point that I've realized I was not thinking when I pulled my pushrods out or paid attention to the valve geometry

Steady as she goes n I'll get it figured out.

Happy Holidays to all of you.

So, I put my new stock heads on a little earlier and torqued the heads down to 23 ft/ lbs.

Now though, when I turn the motor over it really feels like it is almost binding. You can hear the compression.


The video link helps illustrate my point, it's public so you can leave a comment there as well.

If anyone has input that would be great.


Many thanks to all of you.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Im65uJGSIyI? ... MBzfei8HhS

Assuming the plugs are in as well as pushrods, valves adjusted etc, feeling a bit of compression is normal.
The new rings are going to be a little higher drag than on a used motor.

Pull the plugs and check, should be relatively steady resistance.
I pull plugs before first start until I have oil pressure.(spins faster)
Priming the oil system pre-start is not a bad idea, fill the filter, I have an itty-bitty grease gun that I use to squirt a few oz of oil into pressure sensor port. Pressure comes up quick. (don't fill with grease, make sure the gun/flex hose is clear of grease)
You can also buy aerosol cans of oil to prelube engines.

Good luck!

I was thinking the plugs might have something to do with the drag felt.
I'll give it a look tomorrow.