Safari Turbo/Megasquirt Fuel Injection Project

[Piledriver]

There is an excellent set of 7" round h4/hb4 lamps , sae and ece approved, made by KC Hilites, clear Lexan lenses.
They have "freeform" CAD designed reflectors and the light pattern is as good as my mcfabricated Hella/Mercedes HID projectors in my square.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/275201365202

Hella IIRC makes something equivalent with clear glass lenses.
I dislike expensive glass lamps due to the constant state of construction that is Texas.

The problem with LED headlights is unless you spend stupid money on them they are going to blind everyone else and you still cant see where you are going.

[Bruce.m]

Philips now sell LED bulbs in H4 style.
I’d be more trusting of Philips to make a proper designed product of this sort than the typical no-brand eBay item.

[Piledriver]

They still have the disclaimer that they are only for use offroad, as (as a product class) led "replacements" in halogen lamp housings are explicitly banned by ece and dot, only for use off road and in foglights... It's that bad.

I was totally ready to buy those when I saw them... may just be a delay getting around the existing (well deserved) product class ban.

...of course I made a set of lights with used OEM hid projectors in 7" round housings made from the cheap autopal lights, which is also just as prohibited, but the beam pattern is ~perfect with zero stray light, they are well sealed up and have Goretex breathers.

I really need to spend the $50 to register as a headlamp manufacturer so I can "certify" them.
DOT does not certify anything, registered manufacturers do, the $50 filing fee is the bar you have to step over.

[rubenski]

Hey clone

Could you tell me again wich nozzles (cc's) you use at what boost levels?

I know you got 2 but I forgot wich...

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[Clonebug]

I use a 1.0 gph nozzle activated at 4.0 lbs boost and the second nozzle is 2.0 gph at 9 lbs. boost. In daily driving I hardly ever see the W/I lights come on since I have plenty of power at under 4.0 lbs. boost.
My one gallon tank of 50/50 Denatured alcohol/distilled water mix went 5000 miles before I had to add any this past summer. 1200 miles of that were on our Cali trip the rest was local driving.
If you have a progressive controller you can run one nozzle and make it big enough to handle your max needs. You could get a 3.0 gph nozzle and use the controller to regulate your water with pwm control.
I thought about swapping over but my system works so good the way it is I hate to swap it over. My system is either on or off so nothing can really go wrong with it and I have two lights that tell me if they are activating or not.

You are going to need a nozzle that supports the hp you hope to put out. You need to keep your intake temps as close to ambient as possible.....anything over 130 is bad whether it is from outside air temps or from boosted temps. It's been a long time but I think 3.0 gph is good to 250 hp. Devil's Own has a calculator that will tell you what you need depending on rpm, boost and hp desired.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/49-nozzles

They don't have anything in stock right now and the smallest nozzle they have is 3.0 gph. Using their calculator you would need a 2.56 gph nozzle at 20 lbs. boost, 6500 rpm and a 1.641 Liter engine.

[rubenski]

Yeah, 2.85 would sound about right for my setup.

I just need to look into my ecu and see how it can be controlled

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[Schweg]

Pulse width modulation!!! Same as a boost controller.

[Chip Birks]

Pulse width modulation!!! Same as a boost controller.

Only a fancy valve, not the jet you get from devil's own. Unless you are going to pwm the pump...that would be cool.

[Piledriver]

You can pwm the valve... or the pump, but possibly better results with just pwm valve, pump running full pressure

[Piledriver]

They make 12v expresso machine pumps... oscillating pumps, designed to run on AC, but fed a variable frequency, I bet they would throttle down in lockstep. About the right flow and pressure range too.(15-20 Bar) likely have output check valves.

[Clonebug]

Update,

It's warmed up enough in the garage so I've been working on the buggy. The body has been pulled and the turbo, intercooler and intake is off.
I found the bolt holding the throwout shaft bushing loose and the bushing must have moved because I can't get it back in all the way...that means I'll have to pull the engine to fix that.
I am rerouting some wires and getting rid of the terminal strip I've been using and swapping it over to a Deutsch connector instead.
I'm also adding another IAT sensor to log the air temps blowing over the thermostat. I'll mount it somewhere in the airstream coming out of the heads. That is to be determined yet.
I have a plan to possibly use a servo motor or stepper motor to operate the cooling flaps based on air temp coming between the cylinders. It's a long range plan so with the sensor there I can monitor the temps based on load for a while to get a feeling on how the flaps operate. I'll also try to figure out some sort of tps to monitor the flap position......that is down the road when I get bored.

I have the IAT sensor and also a 150 psi pressure sensor on order and might use the pressure sensor for oil pressure. I'm not sure yet since I already have an oil pressure gauge on the dash. I might just eliminate all the gauges on the dash and send everything to the ADU5 dash.
Time will tell if I can make the buggy dash look decent without gauges...

[rubenski]

Ambitous plans with the coolingflaps, I'm just wondering why? You have a cool running engine don´t you?

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[Bruce.m]

The nice design feature of the original thermostat is it fails (because of a crack or damage) by popping open, so the flaps open & there is no risk of overheating.

I guess you could do the same with a servo but it will be constantly holding against the spring tension.

[Clonebug]

The nice design feature of the original thermostat is it fails (because of a crack or damage) by popping open, so the flaps open & there is no risk of overheating.

I guess you could do the same with a servo but it will be constantly holding against the spring tension.

When displaying anything on the ADU5 Dash I can set an alarm to go off at a critical temperature or pressure.
It will flash whatever color I want for whatever timeframe and for that matter I can set a limp mode in the ECU to activate if the flap stayed closed or the cylinder cooling air temp went too high.
At this time it's just an idea to fill the mind. I'll collect some data on air temps vs load to see how much change there is.

[Alexander_Monday]

Ingenious idea. You could control each head independently if necessary. I'd be interested in the flap position vs head temp data for the bellows thermostat.