ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

...good to see i'm not the only person padding their thread with RV pics...

I made some new arms last night. I was amazed, they fit exactly as they were supposed to on the first shot. Still need to add a couple tubes and add some shock mounts. The new arms are 3x5's. I also had a donation from the B5 stock so I will be sporting some Pro-Am rear thing drum brakes!

and yes I am charging the camera.

Oh, they are 3x5 since on tear down the axles were taking a pounding. When I put the bus trans in I moved the trans back and down. Initial angles all look good but a longer axle may be needed. I am just hoping the new brakes wont make the track wider than the front. It looks like they are going to be the same. I can now make 3x3, 3x5, 5x5 and 6x6's coil over arms in about 2 days with my work ethic.

I will be in touch in about a month or so...

If you can build a set of arms in 2 days, then why has your car been up on Jackstands since the night run? And where are the pics, camera still charging??

Getrdone wrote:I can now make coil over arms in about 2 days with my work ethic.

...That's a darn good work ethic...... BUT....

Its not the "building" that takes the time, its the "looking", "thinking" and beer drinkin' thats done before that point that takes up the time.

Ok, I didn't get the shock mounts on yet and I was a bit rusty. Still have a few plates to add but they are close to done. I can now set static camber as long as I have the true tire center and pivot bolt to ground measurements for the given ride. Thanksgiving is coming quick!
and yes there are two B5

So, guess you decided to eliminate the whole plate to plate bolt on part and just bolt the heim to the arm and into the coilover plate. Cool Idea.

Nice! If (when) I decide to build a grown-up car again, I know who's gonna build my arms! If your jig was capable of doing stock width x 1/2" longer, with any specified camber, I would order a set today.

I finished up the arms and hope to have the CV's clean and bearings all back together. I still need to stud the thing drums and will need to make my e-brake cable longer. I have not thought that one out yet. I am hoping the fuel is still good, I put some stabil in it only about a week ago. I going to try mixing race gas for the next trip and see if that takes care of the occasional knocking. I think my compression may be a little higher than I thought.

I could do a set of stock by 1/2, but a wheel spacer might be cheaper. I cant tell if your pulling my chain or not.

I could do a set of stock by 1/2, but a wheel spacer might be cheaper. I cant tell if your pulling my chain or not.

I was serious. I meant 1/2" longer, or so. My wheel sits very close to the front of the stock fender because of the lift, but would probably hit the rear if any longer under compression. I also had major camber issues when I lifted it with type 4 cv's. I had to cut the arms, position them correctly and then gusset them. I would like new arms just to fix the camber, even if stock sized, but it's good for now.

You do good work. Keep it up.

Well , before I pat myself on the back too much. I had to do some readjusting of the arms. Turns out I got a extra full degree of camber during final welding. I am getting pretty good at fixing my f-ups though so it only took about 4 hours to fix and paint. Turns out 1/2" thick 6061 angle will still flex. At least my car is the test mule. I am picking up new 930 boots, grease and will hopefully be running next week. Is the norm. for measuring axles to measure drive flange to stub at the shortest point and deduct 1/2"?

inside cup to inside cup at shortest point (level to each udder) and minus 3/8" - 1/2". Ive heard different "minus" distances but that range was most common...





Oh.... and measure both sides
(your probably just pullin our chain)

Well humpty is back together again. I will update pics as soon as I put the seats back in. I was tempted to 86 the e-brake, but ever since I blew out that brake light switch I am kinda freaked out about a single circuit master and no e-brake. I extended the cable tubes and moved the handle back to compensate for the 3x5's. I am very happy with the travel. The rear now has a very clean 16" of travel with no CV clicking. I also double sheared the pivot bolts.
When I first built the car I was not sure how the rear passengers were going to get in (side or roof). Having almost flipped it when the drum broke I added roof bracing to protect and stiffen the cage. I must say I really like the new rear track width and longer wheelbase.

It looks really good... got any side shots?