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Got a lot done today besides snow blowing.
(Irony is that my wife is in Antarctica and has better weather)
Got the valvetrain finished up and buttoned up the heads.
Then I installed the pressure relief and made a cooler bypass modification.
I measured and lathed a piece of aluminum to press fit inside the plunger.
It is the length to uncover the main galley hole plus a mm.
Since I do not use the factory cooler it will remove some restriction in the oil path.
And it is easily reversible in the future vs tapping and installing a plug.





Started to install the sump, you ever have one of those duh moments?
I didn't change out the stud that holds down the pickup.
Oops, but I finally managed to do it without loosing anything inside the engine.
Got the other studs changed out and test fitted the sump and no go.
The aluminum case protrudes too much at the flywheel end.





I hated to cut it with the engine partially assembled, but it had to happen.
But I decided to install the rear main seal to plug up an additional hole before I did.
No amount of gentle tapping with a dead blow hammer would get it to seat all around.
Sometimes you just have to make do with what you can find handy.





A Foxbody Cobra MAF duct taped to a belt idler, and a piece of aluminum round stock.







Then I cut the offending piece off the case.







And Installed the sump.





Tomorrow hopefully get a lot more done, but snow.....

Nicely done.
Assuming flanged crank seal is same ribbed rubber OD design, one usually puts them in dry, they don't try to come back out.
The glue acts like lube.

Might have been easier to dry sump it at this point.

If you mean the green sealant, it comes on the seal from SKF.
"The green coating on the outside diameter (OD) of the SKF 32344 seal is SKF Bore Tite Coating.
Function: It is a water-based sealant designed to fill small imperfections, scratches, or machining marks in the housing bore.
Characteristics: It is green in color, does not harden, and helps ensure a secure seal while preventing leakage between the seal OD and the housing.
Application: It is typically found on many industrial shaft seals, including the SKF CRW1 design used in the 32344 model."

Ah, only looks wet.

Got more done despite spending 1/2 day clearing snow.
Got the RLR Rev6 flywheel and clutch installed.
Went to align the discs to tighten the clutch and as Homer would say, Duh!
I forgot to install the pilot bearing so back apart it came, but at least I hadn't tightened it yet.





Got the type 3 block off drilled, tapped, and installed with the AN8 fitting that will be the supply for the pre-lube pump.





Got the new oil pump installed and started to install the crank pulley hub but it was too tight.
It fit the old crank ok, but I had to lathe some off the ID and discovered it wasn't quite round anymore.
Why I can't say but just a smidge of material off the uneven side and it fit snug.
That was kind of butt puckering because a mistake there would be disaster since Bugpack is defunct and I've not been able to find a spare hub even though I have tried.
Hindsight is 20/20 and I should have bought a spare decades ago.
I did find a NOS power size pulley that hangs on the wall that I will probably never use.

Then I ran into a problem I had forgot about from the last engine when I went to install the pulleys.
Interference between the 36-1 ring welded to the backside of the alternator pulley and the top oil pump studs/nuts.






I parted off 3mm from a grub screw but that was not enough so I parted off 2.5mm more.





Went to part off 5.5mm of the second one and it was hard as can be and promptly broke the parting blade.
Tried another one and it was also hard about 1/2 way through and started complaining, so I tried a hacksaw to no avail, so I used the grinder.
Guess I got lucky with the first one as far as hardness goes.
Reinstalled them and the nuts without washers and got the pulleys installed.





Got the homemade plug from an old distributor installed.





Got the studs changed and spacer plates for the supercharger stand installed and evened up and put some temporary nuts on to hold them in place.





I ordered a 20mm X 65mm grub screw to replace the homemade stud that is still in the 82mm crank.
Magic of the internet, but when I built the 2110 20 or so years ago there just wasn't anything available, so I had to lathe a stud.
I removed it one time and a few crank threads came out so I reinstalled it in the 82mm crank with red locktite so I am not going to try to remove it again.

Called it a day.
Then next step is to put a chamfer on some bolt holes from the inside of the supercharger stand which is difficult.
I did this with the ones that hold the alternator stands and used F heads because of clearance, shaving some of the bolt heads off for the pulley brackets gave me just enough clearance to be a pain in the ass but work.
This time I will get that extra little bit of clearance.


I almost laugh and almost cry when I look back at the amount of work and money this project car has been since the idea original sparked when I ran across a used Kenne Bell supercharger kit for a V8.

Picture of mockup from 2009 taken with a Blackberry.

Well, like the rest of the supercharger support bracket the chamfered holes are not pretty, but functional.
I was using a 90-degree air die grinder, and the 3/4 chamfer bit was too aggressive for aluminum so kept bouncing.
Now with the pulley and alternator bracket bolts recessed the supercharger will slide in and out without removing the 4 oil plugs on the sides.











Talked to Ron Lumis about my street 6 clutch "pull down" being 0.116" instead of the 0.080" in his setup video and he confirmed it was ok as the video is rev6 specific and the street discs compress more than the discs for the rev6.
I also clarified that the paper instructions meant taking 0.200" off the nose of the guide tube, they were a little vague.
I hadn't read the paper instructions until I went to install it and didn't realize that I needed to use the newer throw out bearing.
Fortunately, Kevin at KCR must have known (He did know what clutch I was going to use) because he installed the correct heavy-duty cross shaft and guide tube.
Unfortunately, I decided to chuck up the guide tube in the lathe to part off 0.200" but it caught when almost through and bent the tube.
Also, I do not have the throw out bearing so I ordered a throw out bearing and 2 guide tubes from CB.
I also looked up the flat and v idler pulleys I used and ordered new ones.
I might install them and hold on to the original ones or vice versa.
Funny, I had forgot that the 2 flat idlers are for a lawn mower belt.

For my future reference the non-custom drive components are:
Flat Idlers: Exmark or Toro: 109-3397
V belt idler pulley: Gates 38003
Supercharger belt idler: ACDelco Gold 38178 Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly
Supercharger drive 6 rib pulley: GM Genuine Parts 25195055 Engine Water Pump Pulley
Alternator(s) belt: Gates Super HC V-Belt 3/8 Inch x 90 Inch - 3VX900
Bugpack Hub System Race Pulleys, HUB ONLY, Slinger Version 4512-11 (Still looking for a spare)
Bugpack Hub System Race Pulleys, V-Belt PULLEY ONLY, 5 3/4" 4512-25 (Found a spare and bought it)
Kenne Bell Old Style (Autorotor) 6-RIB 10MM PULLEY: 2-1/2", 3", 3-11/16", 4-3/16"
Placeholder for supercharger belts when I am back in the shop to look at the numbers for each size pulley
The 36-1 was a water cut one from Ebay and was before 2017 which is as far back as purchase history goes.

Sir, your vision is without equal. And the attention to detail, notes and records... amazing. Kudos to you Sir

I have to keep record somewhere, the mind used to be a steel trap when I was young but over the hump from 60 to 70 it is more like Jello.
Speaking of which, I hope there are young-uns out there that carry on. Coming of age in the 70's when street racing and cruising were fashionable (at least mostly 'look the other way' by the previous generation) and almost required for a man card I don't see that today. They crush cars and put them in jail for things that would have been a fine and a stern warning back then. When we f'ed up it got mostly forgotten about by the few, if any, that found out. Now days there is a permanent record on social media and databases. IE, I got a ticket for 156 in a 40 which cost me a week's wages, a couple of points, and a very stern lecture from my neighbor who was a deputy and I found out vouched for me on the radio when I was 20. I really wanted to tell the judge that yes in fact it was worth it to beat my biggest rival, but I had at least a modicum of common sense. Later, before glory days starts playing..........

I understand. I was there in the 70s, street racing and the like. These days, young guys don't even care about getting a driver's license, because there's a Uber or some such bs. I just don't get it

I've about had it for the day but it is slowly coming together.
A whole lot going on to this thing.
And a lot of time spent hunting down special tools and parts from 2 years ago.
I put the huge 5psi pulley back on to start over tuning again.

It has been a while since I have posted due to work and life.
However, I did get the 2387 installed after several setbacks and now the cam is broke in, and about 30 min of rudimentary tuning.
I drained the Brad Penn break in oil and took a sample while it was draining and sent it off for analysis.
"With less than an hour on the engine, virtually all of the metal here is from new parts wearing in. There's a good chance wear will appear to get worse next time as more of this break -in stuff washes out, but results should eventually settle into steady trends. No obvious issues stand out in its initial sample. Trends will be most important for your custom engine though."
If anyone wants the detailed report, I can post the amounts of each element, viscosity, etc.
The Weldon 9200A pre-lube pump works great, but since it is solidly mounted is noisy as hell.
Now I am redoing my Pi (which runs Tuner Studio) wiring to add a super capacitor UPS because the new 10 turn TDI starter makes it brown out when cranking.
I am waiting on a new MAF which should be a little more than I need since I was maxing out the Ford Cobra MAF with the 2110.
Also waiting on a new Berg sump.
I dropped the 2110 about a foot years ago and broke it, welded it, but it has since had a slight leak.
I put some JB weld over the welds while I had it apart, but that did not help.
The Powell Cams custom cam sounds really healthy to me even with the quiet mufflers.

https://youtu.be/ZiblhRR-BHY

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A little capacitor “pack” fixed my similar issue (PI brown out due to voltage slump). The dip below the minimum voltage was around 1/10 sec.