Making progress...

Offroad VW based vehicles have problems/insights all their own. Not to mention the knowledge gained in VW durability.
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takotruckin
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Post by takotruckin »

skid, wont rubber absorb more vibration than urethane? radiators arent cheap..
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I know - especially custom ones... :shock: But you bring up a good point. I was planning to use a layer of rubber between the radiator flanges and the frame. The urethane mounts will be for the frame to the chassis. Basically the radiator will sit inside of a 2" sq. tube frame.
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takotruckin
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Post by takotruckin »

ahh, gotcha, should work well
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I picked up my radiator today! It came out pretty good, after the guy had to remake the thing... when I went to pick it up yesterday, he had made it a mirror image of my design - not good. :evil: After showing him how is was an exact opposite of my drawing, he got pissed off and told me to come back today. Bummer, dude... I don't think he made much money off of me on this job.
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Leatherneck
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Post by Leatherneck »

Bummer for him, but you can't use it if it is not right.
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

Exactly... the way it is now, I can use it... The filler neck will intrude on my frame design a little, but I can notch the tube and weld in a curved patch of sheet metal to create some "clearance". I will probably go into work to do all the cutting and notching in the morning, then come home and weld it up. Pics will happen...
DesertGuy
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Post by DesertGuy »

When you get a chance, would like to see a pic of the ol' radiator. Who did you have do it?
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

Here is a shot of the radiator. The inlet/outlet tubes didn't get put on with the angles I wanted, but it's usable. I still need to paint it, and my fans (two 14") won't come in until next week. I had a small local shop do it.

Image
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I went in to the shop this morning and fabbed up my radiator frame. I used 2" sq x .06 wall tubing. I left about 1/4" clearance on all sides of the radiator, which sits inside the frame. I had to notch the tube to clear the filler neck.

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I will match drill the flanges and frame, and using 1/8"-1/4" thick rubber strips between the frame and flange. I still need to make the rear supports to hold the radiator at an angle. I am using 25 degrees as a start point. With the front mounts pivoting, I can shorten or lengthen the supports to find the best airflow position.
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

The first test fit of the frame on the car with the radiator clamped in place...

Image

Here is a better shot of the clearance notch for the filler neck...

Image
Last edited by Skidmark on Sat Mar 10, 2007 3:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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The Wild Kids
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Post by The Wild Kids »

Man thats starting to look good. Nice work, wish I was that good at welding and cleaning it up to make it look prerdy!

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DesertGuy
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Post by DesertGuy »

Shoot Skid, it don't get any better than that. I should of just gave you my dimensions and had you call me when it was done... I see that you plan on using 1/8"- 1/4" rubba as a cushion. Do you know where one could get said 1/4" rubba?
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Skidmark
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Post by Skidmark »

I am going to see if McFadden-Dale Hardware has it... they have everything...
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david58
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Post by david58 »

Thats looking good Skid good work.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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takotruckin
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Post by takotruckin »

that looks damn good skid. no wonder it is taking so long. damn perfectionist or something...

is the mustang a v6 or gt?
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