what is needed to fit a wbx into a bug?

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:54 pm

cool

there is a distribution hose that goes around the engine bay in t25's did you conect this the same?

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:16 pm

does the distribution unit on later engines have any one way valves in it??

AMBROSIA · Post by **AMBROSIA** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:05 am

I presume so.

there is a distribution hose that goes around the engine bay in t25's did you conect this the same?

I've used an early style system so i'm not entirely sure.
I doubt there would be any one way valves.
I'll check the manual again tonight.

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 10:21 am

cool' i think i have the flow all correct but will keep my eye on it. i have the VAG workshop manual and on flow of late engines it's a bit vague.

AMBROSIA · Post by **AMBROSIA** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:06 am

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:50 pm

AMBROSIA wrote: One thing I would also advise is fitting a VR6 80 degree thermostat rather than the stock 90 degree one.

this an mk3 vr6 one i'm lookin for? will it be the right size? as some are sometimes bit different in size.

AMBROSIA · Post by **AMBROSIA** » Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:58 pm

Pretty sure I bought it from GSF.
Part number 17646. (CO VR6 8/91 > 80 degree thermostat).
Seems a pretty standard size as its also used on the mk4 golf.

I also used a matching sender on the radiator.
The fan kicks in at just over 90 degrees which means that it loses 10 degrees between the front to back.

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:23 am

cool

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:44 am

I am starting my WBX 2.1 engine into a 1969 beetle I have seen all the front end mods. that have been made from the previous posts and have used some of the information to do the mounting of my radiator ( I will post all of the pictures of what I have done) what I would like to see is how builders have routed the coolant hoses from the rear to the front of the car they have built, pictures would be nice to see how everyone has done that job. Thanks Rocky

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 4:46 pm

Rocky, not experience from a water-cooled conversion, but my old Fiat 850 coupe (Fiat twin-cam conversion, radiator relocated to front of car) simply used two steel tubes (not pipe), one on each side of the car, that spanned from front to back. They were bent on each end to reduce the total length of rubber radiator hose.

Some of the Chevy-into-914 conversions have utilized rubber hose that runs under the car, but I'd think steel tube would be cheaper, more durable, and more secure to fasten to the underside of the car.

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:49 am

Well, I cut the heater channel out complete on the right side of the bug, I'm going to use the stock heater tubes that came from the 1984 van. They will have to be bent to go into to the cavity where the heater tube used to be. Cutting the hole in the front at the fire wall was a pita. I'm going to make a new outer skin so only a 12" section (down at your feet) will be larger than the stock tube. Its a lot more work but you wont be able to see any of the tubes then I'm done.

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:21 pm

hiya, i run them on outside under heater channels, i am making stainless ones at the mo, i thought about doing what you are doing but i went on the theory that if they are outside, it will help with cooling.

just a thought, good thinking tho

AMBROSIA · Post by **AMBROSIA** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:23 pm

I used s/steel flexi pipes.

Have a look at my readers ride for more details.
http://www.volkszone.co.uk/VZi/showthread.php?t=353775

Stephanhipwell · Post by **Stephanhipwell** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 3:37 pm

have you had any probs with ground clearance? i have run mine slightly different and solid as they are then a smaller diameter and give better clearance, i'll post some pics up when i have em all in again.

AMBROSIA · Post by **AMBROSIA** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 5:06 am

No ground clearance problems yet other than wacking the scoop on a speed bump

I had to run the coolant pipes through the beam rather than under it as you can see.
There are other projects where the pipe runs under the running boards.
This involves cutting a path at the wing bottoms, running up the inner wing and through by the bumper mounts.
A better solution but a lot more work for a few mm's of extra clearance.
My car is not drastically lowered but just right so that you can happily cruise at over 100mph with one hand on the steering wheel

Even at 120 on the clock it feels stable with positive steering and no body twitching.