Oxyboxer build thread

[Piledriver]

12 qt is pretty std.

You don't actually have to fill it 100%..

One of the advantages of dry sump is the oil has time to deareate, but in order to HAVE that time, it can't be making another trip through the engine every few seconds, so more volume increases the cycle time.

Don't forget to plumb the pressure relief return to the DS tank, most of your oil gets bypassed to the sump there at any reasonable RPM. This saves pumping it back out endlessly to no effect.

This also allows it more cycles through the tanks baffles to deareate, as well as more cycles through the cooler before hitting the bearings

[grelland]

Still waiting for crucial parts, but meanwhile, I located one on these (not that shiny loooking though... ) that I will attempt to locate inside the rear fender behind the wheel.

porsche sump.jpg

[Steve Arndt]

Is that a 911 tank?

[grelland]

yes

[andy198712]

cool i wouldnt mind one too! was it costly? is that the filler, breather, then feed, and at the bottom two outputs? and a red drain?

whats the red bit at the top?

[grelland]

I dont really know what all the inputs and outputs are for, but I will have a closer look once I pick it up. I paid about $200 for it.

[grelland]

finally some progress

I received some parts the other day, and I was quite excited to see how especially the Los Panchitos heads looked, and I took a couple of pictures.

First a look at the combustion chamber:

chamber1.jpg

I don't have the experience to tell whether the shape of the chamber is any good, but from what I can see, are there some quite sharp edges both in the transition between the squish area and the chamber itself, and there is also a ridge around the entire circumference of the chamber.

chamber2.jpg

My plan is to have the ridge machined down so that the squish area is flat, then use my dremel to round off the sharp edge around the chamber.

Next shot is down the intake channel.

intake.jpg

Again, I am i no position to judge the shape and size of the port, and by feeling my finger around, it really feels nice and smooth. There are a few areas where it seems the cnc did not cut into the material, so my plan is to lightly go over this area with a flap-disk on my dremel to ensure that all transitions are as smooth as possible.

I will also matchport my intakes to fit the openings in the head.

Another shot, this time down the exhaust port:

exhaust.jpg

Same comment there on the oxydized areas.

I will also remove the valves to check the valve/seat job, and also ensure that all is nice and clean prior to final assembly.

All in all, I think this looks good, and I do really look forward to seeing how this engine will perform

[grelland]

I also ordered a CB dry sump pump, and I trial fitted it in order to check for potential interference issues between the lines to/from the sandwich plate and the line going into the pump:

pump1.jpg

pump2.jpg

Quite busy... I will have to trial fit the heads and exhaust to further check this...

Here is another shot where one of the challenges of using a dry sump pump is evident:

pump clearance.jpg

I will first try to see if I will be able to shim the pulley far enough out to clear the pump cover. But in order to do that, I need to assemble the entire shroud/generator assembly to verify that I will be able to align the pulleys properly. Alternativelly I will need to use a smaller sized serpentine pulley kit.

[Passatman]

finally some progress

I received some parts the other day, and I was quite excited to see how especially the Los Panchitos heads looked, and I took a couple of pictures.

First a look at the combustion chamber:

chamber1.jpg

I don't have the experience to tell whether the shape of the chamber is any good, but from what I can see, are there some quite sharp edges both in the transition between the squish area and the chamber itself, and there is also a ridge around the entire circumference of the chamber.

chamber2.jpg

My plan is to have the ridge machined down so that the squish area is flat, then use my dremel to round off the sharp edge around the chamber.

Next shot is down the intake channel.

intake.jpg

Again, I am i no position to judge the shape and size of the port, and by feeling my finger around, it really feels nice and smooth. There are a few areas where it seems the cnc did not cut into the material, so my plan is to lightly go over this area with a flap-disk on my dremel to ensure that all transitions are as smooth as possible.

I will also matchport my intakes to fit the openings in the head.

Another shot, this time down the exhaust port:

exhaust.jpg

Same comment there on the oxydized areas.

I will also remove the valves to check the valve/seat job, and also ensure that all is nice and clean prior to final assembly.

All in all, I think this looks good, and I do really look forward to seeing how this engine will perform

You have some cleaning up to do here. I am glad you shared this with us all because what i am seeing here doesn't impress me.

[grelland]

could you be more specific about what I need to clean up, or am I on the right track with the things I mentioned?

[Passatman]

Well you are on the right track those sharp edges need to go.

[crankwalk]

Looks great!

[andy198712]

Maybe use a 45 degree fitting out the pump?

On those heads, how does it feel? Do the transitions between machines and raw look worse then they feel? A fluff up would harm I doubt!

What's your current thoughts on head studs now you have them?

Merry Christmas!

[grelland]

It might be that I place the dry sump tank in the right hand side fender, so then I will have a 180deg fitting on that side, so maybe it all works out well.

Yes the transitions are nice and smooth feeling with the finger, so I have just used a mini flap-drum on my dremel, and cleaned up.

Another thing I looked at today is the bearing closest to the flywheel.

Normally, on a T1 engine, that gearing has a double thrust surface, so that the end float can be shimmed correctly, but this is how this bearing looks in my kit:

bearing.jpg

From what I can see, is the case machined so that a thrust type bearing can be used, but as I said there was no such bearing in my KS kit...

Do I have the wrong bearing kit?

[fastback]

didn't i send you the 2 thrust plates for the bearing
It's all in the Haynes manual