Shoptalkforums.com

So the pc didn't even work.....did u sinc the ports?

Correct, it did not work. I sync'd the ports. At this point, I am planning to send the Com adapter and the ECU up to Link for testing.

Crappy dude......good luck on getting that fixed

Thanks. The frustrating part to all of this is that I spent 400 on the link, 200 on the com adapter and now possibly another 150 for testing of the ECU and the com adapter. If the adapter is bad, they'll replace it and not charge me the 150 is what I'm told. This almost all adds up to the cost of a turnkey complete Megasquirt system. I know I'm ahead on the cost of a Link System when comparing to the cost of a Link from Outfront. At this point, I just want it all to work.

Then there's the oil leak on the backing plate (caliper brackets) on the rear. I found on the samba that I failed to put a paper gasket between the end of the axle housing and caliper bracket, but only because the paper gasket did not fit over the flange at the end of the axle.

I didnt put the papers on myself....did u put new o rings? Mine isn't leaking

Did the o rings, no paper in between the caliper bracket and the axle end. The opening on the caliper bracket is larger than the flange on the end of the axle so the large o ring basically sits in the gap between the large bearing and the caliper bracket.

Called CB Performance today and found that I was missing a couple of shims which was causing my leaks. So while I was at it, I ordered a disc brake master cylinder.

Did the driver's side axle seal (again) with the new spacer shim that CB sent. We'll see what happens, hopefully no more leaks. At the same time, I also adjusted the spring plate on that side. I have Sway Away adjustable spring plates but I was at the end of the adjustment so I had to adjust the splines. The shop manual I goes into detail on how to calculate the angle of the spring plate based on how far off of level the car is. It was easier to just raise the front up until it was level. I have a magnetic angle gauge from Harbor Freight that works great for this. I set the angle on the splined part of the Sway Aways to 39° and the adjusters on them to the lowest point. The 39° isn't the same as the measurement on the long part of the spring plate. When I was done and set the car back down, the drivers side was an inch higher than the right side. So when I do the right side, I'll set it to match. I gained an inch and have the full adjustment on the sway aways left to bring it up more if I want.

The torsion bars on 67s and I believe 68s as well are softer than earlier ones, so the standard 20° spring plate measurement on the earlier cars don't seem to work on the 67s.

Here's my advice on doing the spring plates, get an angle finder like this http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge ... 34214.html
Also get the spring plate tool, http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... C-C10-7047

As a side note, I sent my Link ECU up to Fine Line Imports, they tested the Serial Link Adapter and it was okay so now the ECU is going to LINK to be tested further to see why it would not connect up.

hate to hear about ur troubles surf!!
b4 u know it...u'll be running-!
so u still stay-n with the rear rad??
i went that route many years ago...worked well around town...but fans ran way to much for me...now with rad up front..the added weight has also helped keep the frontend planted at highway speeds

So I did the right side axle seal with the shim sent by CB, it still leaked, so I used some Permatex gasket maker on it and now I have no leaks. I also got the rear ride height set the way I want. Still need to do the z-bar.

Got news on my LINK ECU, it turns out that it was too old to connect via the serial link, so now they are going to do a firmware update and then it should connect up.

About the rear radiator, I'm going to try that first and see what happens. There's a guy on the dunebuggy archives that has done it with his '68 bug and is very happy with it. His build thread is http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/ ... st#pid8731
He's running a Jeep Cherokee radiator.

I had planned on running the fuel lines this weekend but ended up helping a friend move some stuff to storage, maybe I'll get time next weekend.

yeah i rem that guy..was right after my build.....i still like having my backseat----no package tray but back seat

you can always drool over R's ride.....aka quick108

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/view ... 118&page=1

Yeah, I have seen quick108's ride over on NASIOC and on Aussie. He's got some videos on You Tube also. I plan to have the rear seat in place. I used to have two 12 inch speakers in a box behind the backseat, now I'll find another place to put a subwoofer (if at all) so for me the parcel tray loss is not a deal killer.

Hope to get the ECU back in the next week or so, the firmware will be upgraded to allow the laptop to connect. This last weekend, I started in on installing the fuel line, drilled three of the four holes I need and then the bit broke. My wife and friends planned an impromptu bar-b-que at their house so my work was cut short. Maybe this afternoon I'll sharpen that broken bit and finish off the last hole. I'm running the 5/16th inch fuel line and return from the front down the passenger side of the tunnel to the rear. I am not really a fan of running the line under the pan so I'm trying to keep it protected.

Okay fuel lines are formed and in place. Just need to get some fasteners to hold them in place and grommet where they pass through the body and pan. While I was at it, I started to clean up the top of the intake manifold but have some questions. There is a larger diameter hose that I don't know where it's supposed to go. One end is just hanging (red tape) but the other end goes under the intake and connects to the Idle Air Control Valve, any ideas?
Also, where the engine meets the bellhousing of the transaxle, there is a plug with a wire on it that goes down to the top of the engine block, what's this for? My Link ECU harness had no plugs for this one. Also I was mocking up the heater core. I bought a mojave style heater from Summit Racing, it is their own brand with a three speed fan. At this point, I plan to put it opposite of the battery under the back seat. I think I'm going to cut the blue duct and connect the two heater outlets to the blue duct and run it into the existing heater system. This means I would have to connect the right and left side ducts over the transaxle. Last question, I have a vacuum size hose that goes to the wastegate and a separate vacuum size hose on the outlet to the turbo. Both were cut when I got the engine. Can they be connected to each other or where should they go? I was thinking that one would be pressurized with boost and that by connecting it to the wastegate it would cause it open. But as I type this, I think that somewhere I need to plumb it into the blow off Valve on the intercooler. Any ideas?

Yeah tie them together. For the bov to work you need a vacuum line coming off the intake manifold. Under boost and letting your foot off the thottle will create a pressure difference. Low pressure in your intake. And higher pressure coming from your turbo wich opens the bov.