Cut my pushrods finally.Here's a few pictures. Too busy with work to test the lift again yet.
Set it up like turbobaja's with a few washers under the square.Cut with a pipe cutter and then filed to match lengths. Tried a grinder disc but it was a little harsh and hot.
"Being ready is not what matters. What matters is winning after you get there."
I finally cut my pushrods, sealed my cylinder head nuts with aviation gasket sealer and pulled my old motor to prepare for the 2276.
I Spent some time on the old motor,1776cc, installing new vw vitone main seal and new pushrod tubes and seals(sealed with the 'right stuff') and new oil pump even though there's only a few thousand miles on it. Its going to the local tire shops 67 bus.
I was wondering what pressure plate I should use with a 2276 turbo on a stock 68 bus transmission? I have the empi copy of the KEP I balanced to my flywheel, the KEP I I just pulled from my 1776 and a new KEPII in the parts pile. I'm thinking of running a SACHES disc to see if it can handle it.
"Being ready is not what matters. What matters is winning after you get there."
I want to modify my megasquirt to run an aquamist fast acting valve.
Here's my MS1 v2.2 from TheDubshop modified by Mario for Boost control and EDIS and a fan control output.IThese mods are so clean and nicely layed out. I hope I don't mess it all up.
"Being ready is not what matters. What matters is winning after you get there."
Lots of updates today and I am too busy to finish any one procedure.
Heres the bus on blocks. I figured since I am pulling the motor for the 2276 to go in I might as well finally setup my parking brake cables.Wheels were corroded from winter driving as well. It is my daily driver. The bus has front and rear rotors and calipers from a 1983 944. Drop plates and custom rear bracket from OldSpeed to mount the Porsche rotor with hub for parking brake.
Its gonna be lower now
front
rear
hopefully I don't pinch this
From inside the hub
caliper mount
"Being ready is not what matters. What matters is winning after you get there."
Really interested to see how you do this.... I'm about to enter into the same stage of my project.... But unlike my Bug (I fabricated the zorst from scratch), I think I'll start with a sidewinder and go from there.... In my case, it's a low boost engine, so wall thickness should not really be an issue.... But yours on the other hand.....
Humpty wrote:Really interested to see how you do this.... I'm about to enter into the same stage of my project.... But unlike my Bug (I fabricated the zorst from scratch), I think I'll start with a sidewinder and go from there.... In my case, it's a low boost engine, so wall thickness should not really be an issue.... But yours on the other hand.....
I was thinking the same thing,but then the turbo needs to fit either to the right of the engine like the muffler on a sidewinder or up in the battery tray area I think. And it would be nice to have heater boxes in Canada.
"Being ready is not what matters. What matters is winning after you get there."
Yeah your right.... I'm thinking just under the battery tray would be ideal... One of things I don't like about the sidewinder exhaust is that you have to remove the muffler for valve adjustments.... This would be a thing of the past if the turbo was placed there.... High enough to be clear of damage, protected from road debris to some extent but the rear guard 'flap' and outer body work, and away from the engine bay and engine it's self....