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Big end size was my major concern when Charles and I started talking about this.. They'll be as small as physically possible.

MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:Big end size was my major concern when Charles and I started talking about this.. They'll be as small as physically possible.

Yeah, I figured as much as we probably think alike with these things and have the same concerns

Thanks guys,
Walter

Stripped66 wrote:I'm sure we're both realizing that in the end, it would've been cheaper to pony-up for the Chevy/T1 rod journals and rods. Keep your project moving! I'm hoping at the very least, this will keep options available for those who are stuck with 2L rod journals, either from a stock crank or early stroker crank. If, at the very least, more people knew about the Dodge rod bearing option, maybe a batch of 2L rods at a suitable length (5.4") and suitable price may eventually become a reality.

I'm sure we're both realizing that in the end, it would've been cheaper to pony-up for the Chevy/T1 rod journals and rods.

Actually, the crank was suppose to have chevy journals, and I paid $250 for it, and boy was I suprised when they turned out to be 2.0

There is a rod out there that will work, and I'am gonna find it.

One, rod that I considered, was the 250 6 cyl chevy, it's 5.7" long, the big end is 1.029" wide, and 2.125" big end bore, and I was gonna use the chevy bearings.040" under (.040 Clevite77, $25.95 and thats enough for 8 rods), , and have the crank turned and or polished, down .0007" (to 1.960) or just enough to get the right amount of clearance, Side clearance the big end down to 1.010, or to the proper side clearance, flip the bolts, bush the small end, but this would only be a one time deal, the rods could be used on another crank, and the crank could still be used but only with other rods, with the crank turned.

What to do?

Well, gents, stripped66 and I are going to do a set od 2.0 rods with the Clevite bearing mods! I got the bearings, specs, and am going to talk to my bud this afternoon so he can get them started.

V6914 wrote: One, rod that I considered, was the 250 6 cyl chevy, it's 5.7" long...

I think DStar was considering that rod breifly before falling back on the 2L rods (Don, I still think you should consider the Dodge bearing conversion). I've got a set of rods that all but bolt right on, but they are going to give me headaches of another sort to deal with.

speedy57tub wrote:Well, gents, stripped66 and I are going to do a set od 2.0 rods with the Clevite bearing mods! I got the bearings, specs, and am going to talk to my bud this afternoon so he can get them started.

You're giving me too much credit, Tony. Since they are YOUR rods and YOUR money, it looks like YOU are doing it Glad I can help, nonetheless

speedy57tub wrote:Well, gents, stripped66 and I are going to do a set od 2.0 rods with the Clevite bearing mods! I got the bearings, specs, and am going to talk to my bud this afternoon so he can get them started.

They might work. But What I forgot to mention about, when I used 2.0 rods on my 75mm crank, because of rod being so short, the longer stroke, will draw the the pistons farther down into the case, and they hit the main saddles, so they have to be clearanced, and now you'll be useing a 78mm crank, and that will draw the pistons another .060" farther into the case, .060" more than I had to deal with.

I, don't know what pistons your useing, what CH, but before you start the bearing swap, I would mock up the case, put a 2.0 rod on with the 2.0 bearing, on the crank install it in the case, check cam clearance, cause now, you got .060" less clearance between the rod and cam, and you'll have to do alot more stroker clearancing of the rods than I had too, and you may not like how much material you have to remove from the bolt head and rod, more so the bolt head.

Then, with the crank installed in each case half 1 half at a time, and it would probally easier to have all 4 rods on the crank, install a piston and cyl on each rod, rotate the piston down into the case, and check for clearancing issues.

I like the Clevitte bearing tip, when I redo my 2632 (75mm x 105,7mm), I'll do the bearing mod to the rods, even if I dont put them back in that motor

All the previous, is just part of why I want to use longer rods.

I ahve an 80mm crank with the stock rods and KB pistons.
Yes, the pistons DO need clearanceing, but then again, so do the rods.

The rods cost me $90 to have rebushed, new bolts and nuts and resize.

IF I had the coin to drop, I would go just about ANY other route, but I don't.


Don

I don't think SpeedyTub is running a 78mm crank...


...I am, but I'm not using 2L rods.

The Clevite bearing Speedy referred to IS the Dodge 2.2L connecting rod bearing. All of that info is covered in the "Rod Bearing Redux" thread:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=94113

dstar wrote:The rods cost me $90 to have rebushed, new bolts and nuts and resize.

IF I had the coin to drop, I would go just about ANY other route, but I don't.


Don

I dunno Don...sending your rods out for big-end resizing shouldn't cost much at all. You could notch the rods with a file for the Dodge rod bearing yourself (or have the machine shop do it...again, should not be expensive).

At this point, I would think $50 more in rod mods is still cheaper than spinning a bearing.

I'm only looking for a little over 300hp(200+100 shot of NOS),
so I'm not worried about spinning the bearings on the rods.


Don

Stripped66 wrote:

speedy57tub wrote:Well, gents, stripped66 and I are going to do a set od 2.0 rods with the Clevite bearing mods! I got the bearings, specs, and am going to talk to my bud this afternoon so he can get them started.

You're giving me too much credit, Tony. Since they are YOUR rods and YOUR money, it looks like YOU are doing it Glad I can help, nonetheless

Hey, I have to give credit to you, afterall, research takes lots of time and you know what that is worth !!

dstar wrote:I'm only looking for a little over 300hp(200+100 shot of NOS),
so I'm not worried about spinning the bearings on the rods.


Don

No...you'll be perfectly happy just pounding the sh!t of 'em

Well, I just had a change of heart...


Got off the phone with Speedy, talked rod ratios for a bit, and decided to scrap my uber-long rod option. 2L rods with 78mm stroke puts me at a 1.679 rod ratio; if I run an offset bushing in at the small end of the rod (I'm running 22mm pins), the rod ratio bumps up to 1.69. Internal clearancing is not a big issue.

The long rods were still going to give me a reasonable rod ratio as compared to stock, but definitely higher than suitable ranges for hot street engines. Plus, don't need to worry about longer head studs, push rod tubes, and cooling issues with width...it's always easier to remove material (clearancing) than adding material Plus, I can plan the engine around a more conservative operating RPM range, too.

Gotta say I love these forums...heck, I may change my mind two or three more times before it's all said and done, but the edumacation you get in the process is priceless.

You can't run an offset bushing in the piston......

Don