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andy198712 wrote:you can buy such a vent for KTM's probably cheaper too...

Do you mean an inline like a Krankvent or reed valves?

I'd still LOVE to try a Krankvent in several setups, but it's one of things like Admiral Gorshkov liked to say...:
"Better' is the enemy of 'Good Enough"

inline....
http://thumperracing.net/index.php?rout ... uct_id=212

chat to the guy, hes called Travis.

has anyone played with using the exhaust to suck air out also?

I guess other folks are trying to copy the Krankvents now, charging about the same too.

http://www.et-performance.com/faq.html

The Krankvent looks like a reed valve from the internal element.
I doubt anything else would work as well/fast.

I'm using an AIR valve, which is basically what the folks doing exhaust vacuum use, but I only dump to the air cleaner with it.
It's basically a round reed valve of a flexible, reinforced high temp silicone or such. It works OK, but cant flow too much.

I run case vacuum from manifold vac (with a bleeder) and I have a vacuum/dump accumulator inline wih some AC check valves, the case stays under vacuum for awhile even at WOT.
I'm pretty sure if I had a Krankvent it would STAY there.

who copied who though....

andy198712 wrote:who copied who though....

Well, the Krankvent is using a different patented design/materials and has been around in it's present form for awhile.

The others look similar on the OUTSIDE and make similar claims/price but use the slow valve setup that cannot WORK as well.
Looks like the "copies" aren't really "good" copies, they just try to charge the same $$, look and the ads "sound" the same for a cheap part.

As I said, AIR valves are pretty cheap.
The other folks (at best) are using a similar design, so you are likely paying $74 for the nice welded SS housing with a twenty cent valve in it.
The Krankvent probably costs about the same to the manufacturer to make, at least for the element.

If they were $25 I'd have several in use.
Decent plastic would be fine, if it came apart for cleaning I'd be impressed.

thats what gets me about these, they dont come apart for cleaning...

andy198712 wrote:inline....
http://thumperracing.net/index.php?rout ... uct_id=212

chat to the guy, hes called Travis.

has anyone played with using the exhaust to suck air out also?

We used exhaust to suck air out in our small block stroked Chevy V8 engine, prior to that we could only rev the engine to 6000rpm, even though it was spec. out to rev to 8500.
After puting in the valve cover, to exhaust sucker... wow what a difference it made! We could rev the engine to 9k after that!

It was soo responsive we are talking to the floor and back as fast as possible and it would hit 9k.

Even a small amount of case vacuum can do WONDERS for ring seal...

OK, Frank, on your recommendation I ordered some of these.

Hi OneBadBug,

We have two, and they work. The caveat is the rest of the engine has to be sealed, so you aren't sucking in air to replace what the KrantVents' are sucking out.

This means a sand seal.

I may have mentioned this, but with a clear plastic tube to see, and a really good engine seal, a single KrankVent sucking out of the alt stand vent started trying to pull all the oil out of the engine!

Test with clear tubing to make sure you don't get into the same situation.

FJC

This will be for my turbo Subaru, so regular seals all around. Still haven't decided quite what I want to do, I know I want to vent both valve covers, and I want the liquid oil, if any, to return to the engine.

What about using a couple of OEM style PCV valves?
eg. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCK-045-0288

Hi 4AgeDub,

I believe stock PCV valves would work, but the touted advantage of the KrankVent is more efficiency and durability.

The test is to plumb in a couple of valves and check the crankcase pressure with a fuel pressure gauge hooked to the dipstick tube.

FJC

...Pressure/Vacuum gauge hooked up to the case.

I have run tests using my second baro sensor on my MS plugged into the dipstick tube...
(set the MS for power on std reference of course)

is this applicable to type 4 engines also? thanks.