The Blunderbus, bus #2

Ol'fogasaurus · Post by **Ol'fogasaurus** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 4:21 pm

Fuser, a silly question: are there any flair kits for Jeeps and the like that might help you on the rear radiuses.

Lee

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 5:02 pm

heh probably, but my wheel is actually in the well still. oh so very barely, but it is. I am gonna hit the edge w/ a file and paint and call it good. may get some trim beading to slip over it once I am happy w/ the curve. originally I was gonna do fender flares, but that seems unecassary now, which is great cause I don't need to worry about the slider hitting htem.

bajaherbie · Post by **bajaherbie** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 5:27 pm

no flares needed... it's a shaggin' wagon and/or stabbin' cabin.

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Sat Feb 23, 2013 7:12 pm

Stabbin cabin, I like it

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:30 pm

So I just spent two hours out in the driveway sorting out a few simple things, and I am officially not solid. Looks like I need to bust out a couple hundred more $$.

Bought some really nice heater boxes. Wrong style
My known good fuel pump is, well, dead
Both the babtteries I had thought would be good enough for a season or three are dead
Broken lower shock bolt is NOT coming out of the dang arm
sheet metal work is haaaarrrrrrddd :whiney emoticon:
My electrical issues are a bit less cosmetic than I initially thought...

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:49 pm

ok, put out some feelers, found most of the junk I need. Rolling around on the ground tonight, doing all the hard lines. Fuel tank is IN!!!!! that has been nagging me almost since I got the car, since the tank it came w/ was not FI, and the filler setup was all manner of different, and I got away w/o moding the tank. In hindsight, I wasted days on this cause I found a crazy simple solution, but it took dumb luck to get me here, here's to hoping it continues tonight!

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 6:24 pm

had about an hour free, fought some really stuck sheet metal screws (gonna order something fancy from Mcmaster tonight, either SS or square/torx drive, never again phillips, never again) and cleaned up on the head. Utah dirt freaking everywhere, mixed w/ oil. honestly feel kinda sad killing that evidence of fun times past.

Drilled out a sheet metal screw hole to M10, since some idiot must have swapped sides w/ the heads, and there is no wehre for the head temp sensor to mount... Of course I bought a full set of metric taps, and its the one size I don't have. M10x1.00, gonna verify in the daylight against an actual sensor, but that could be right.
removed wrong style sheetmetal for my new ehxuast, yay!
Still have no idea if I have the right sheet metal to go back in though....
cut a notch in the head for a cyliner head temp sender, no more modifying the sender and always wondering if it seated proper or not.
Threw some primer at the engine bay to keep it reasonable till summer and free time???? rolls around again.
runied some brake line trying to replace the lines last night. first 3 flares go perfect, next 5 are all cut offs!! I am doing something wrong, not sure what. Hopeing a better job of de-burring is all that is needed. Going to do the rear brake lines that go over the transmission, then focus solely on putting the engine/trans back in. Hesitant to put that in before the exhaust and tins are all in, but I think it makes sense. I'll just leave it loose....

Ol'fogasaurus · Post by **Ol'fogasaurus** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:09 pm

Remember, there is a difference between Phillips and cross-head. In order to use a Phillips head screwdriver on a cross-head screw you have to dress the point down a bit. The Phillips is deeper into the the head/body hence the head is not quite as strong where it joins the shank.

Lee

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:35 pm

oof, yes, cross head. dag nab it. that's my problem! I used to have a GREAT screw driver, it vanished along w/ my absurdly long phillips and flat heads and backup set of 410s. someone has em....

any input on what hardware I should replace stock w? I remember mcmaster having a sad selection, I am brwosing around right now.

Ol'fogasaurus · Post by **Ol'fogasaurus** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 8:56 pm

People usually confused cross-head and Phillips head so they usually end up boogering up the head of the fasteners. The distance of the depth of dressing of the screw driver isn't that much. I have a couple of 'drivers I got a bit too ambitious with and they are not worth anything other than being used as levers/drifts or removing nose hair.

I'm not sure but I think there are actually one or two additional similar looking fastener heads to the two we are talking about; it’s been too long now since I was into the standards.

Lee

fusername · Post by **fusername** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 5:49 am

cross head is a head w/ two flat head slots in it, not quite intended for a cross looking driver. There is phillips head, which is DESIGNED to cam out, and there is a Frearson head, wihch is like a phillips but it is pointier, and designed such that even the wrong size Frearson driver will fit well into the other size screws.

MORE THAN YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a- ... -Phillips/

BAJA-IT · Post by **BAJA-IT** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 11:19 am

And then there is the "Pozidriv" screws. A phillips driver will round these out too.

Ol'fogasaurus · Post by **Ol'fogasaurus** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:36 pm

fusername wrote:cross head is a head w/ two flat head slots in it, not quite intended for a cross looking driver. There is phillips head, which is DESIGNED to cam out, and there is a Frearson head, wihch is like a phillips but it is pointier, and designed such that even the wrong size Frearson driver will fit well into the other size screws.

MORE THAN YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a- ... -Phillips/

The cross-head screw you are talking about, the one designed for a close tolerance/access slot/blade type of screwdrivers is usually used in electrical; you even see it in some older points style distributors. There is another screw that the fed spec (NAS, AN, AND, Mil-, etc.) nomenclature for it is “cross-head” vs. the other style which is referred to as a “Phillips” or “Phillips Head”; it is deep sunk like a Phillips but just not as deep and has a more flat bottom compared to the Phillips pointed style. There are also really cheap... no chinchy (Embarrassingly stingy) versions that are easy to twist the head off of (probably cast from zink or peanut butter); been there done it.

You see some bits/screwdrivers that have short depth heads on them which, I think, are supposed to work on both styles of heads. Like I said, trying to use a Phillips head screwdriver on a cross-head screw will bugger the recess in no time because the blades don’t get in deep enough to get a good full “purchase”.

Interesting page you posted.

Lee

Big Dave · Post by **Big Dave** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 1:42 pm

I've always known them as a reed and prince screwdriver.

Ol'fogasaurus · Post by **Ol'fogasaurus** » Mon Mar 04, 2013 6:59 pm

Big Dave wrote:I've always known them as a reed and prince screwdriver.

A new name for me, never heard that one before.

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The Blunderbus, bus #2

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