Whoa - I have a 2.7L. Now what?

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Looks like a late 2 L engine case

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[Type 4 Unleashed]

That's a lot of welding, those heads will hold some heat. But why not go back to the TURBO, just fix all the issues ?

Here are some heads I have for a Turbo Build Project down the road for a comparison, and these are 48 x 38 :

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Pistons are Dished JE 105.xx mm which will make it a 2.8 Turbo Build, and when I finally get around to this build I'll add the 6th Stud.

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I believe these heads were done by Brothers

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Let me throw this pic in:

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And I'll up grade to an 11 blade fan when I run it :

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[Tdskip]

Wow! What an engine Richard! Keep us posted how how that comes along and wave as you blow past me in the canyons.

My turbo set up was kind of wonky and I am willing to trade some power for better / more linear power and longevity. It was an interesting set up but my hunch is they never got it quite right.

Heading to Brothers in the morning - hope they can help me sort this out.

[Piledriver]

Nice project!

I still cant quite grok that oil feed setup, does it go into the block?
(Thinking piston oil squirters, that motor has everything else....)
The dimples are supposed to create a little surface turbulence to keep the fuel droplets in the airflow.
I would leave them be, probably no harm.

The typical acvw low hot oil pressure problems, assuming the case or bearings are good is typically called a Schadeck oil pump, sold by almost everyone.
It almost invariably will slide right into the case (if it doesn't drag on the studs) and will suck air and leak pressure internally to/from the case.
Melling pumps are the same size, but dont even grow with the case when it heats up.

The correct fit is a couple-3 thou interference fit, vw made a pump puller for a reason, you should have to loosen the case bolts up around the pump to pull or install the pump... and only with serious effort.

I suspect schadeck started making them like that to make them easier to slap in for the engine assembly mills.

revmaster sells one, Richard iirc uses one, nice pumps but huge.
no idea how they fit, I assume factory od...

The pumps can have their od oringed, but then you pretty much have to install the pump before the case goes together or you cut the orings.

I oringed a few pumps, seem to work ok for me, but Im thinking a thin bead or two of TIG weld and turning to correct size would be better.

A cb dry sump pump is pretty easy to mod for a t4 and is sized well, as long as the engines pressure bypass is fed to the dry sump tank rather than the sump. Its actually made by schadeck but the inner stage is scavenge, outer is pressure, so the case fit is not quite as vital.
A dry sump in a 914 is not a bad idea at all, as it can create enough cornering force to run dry almost at will.

I manage to score a couple good used t1 vw/oe pumps, from a couple old vw shops junk bins, they fit right. Some of them can be easily modded to work in a t4.

[Tdskip]

Hi there – thanks for the response and information on the oil pump.

That oil set up, which does going to the block, was used to circulate oil to the turbo that was on it

[Type 4 Unleashed]

Any raised area of those dimples are a source for detonation, and as to what their suppose to do ?, but what they will do is deter flame travel, the burns won't be complete.

I don't know what oil pump he has, but he needs at least the 38mm Revmaster, to insure he gets the oil back from the oil cooler in the front of the car, and I would prefer hard lines over the braided lines. Autocraft pumps are also an option.

[Tdskip]

Good morning. I will make sure that brothers knows that I’ll be pushing oil to the front of the car.

Besides durability is there a reason the soft lines are not preferred?

Thanks!

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Dropped off - need to get then the flywheel and intake manifolds to them so they can match the ports.

I have a pair of Weber 44 IDFs, think will that be enough for this engine?

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[Piledriver]

They make fine ITBs for efi, pull the venturis and cap off the fuel inlet.
Some also plug the main jets and air corrections, but I suspect a 2.7 will flow enough air at idle for a little leakage not to matter.

I strongly suggest an excellent throttle linkage, slowtwitch makes them, Synclink.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds ... id=2169636
Everything else is junk by comparison...

...and yes, they will work ok as carbs, but I suggest the extended idle air tube mod to prevent drowning and plugged idle fuel jets.
IDFs have a remarkably effective design for funneling any water or debris that gets by the filter into the idle jets and fuel bowls.

If you lack a rain tray or carb hats don't get caught in a downpour.
It can also hydrolock your motor if it happens while parked.

Well chosen bread loaf pans can make for decent rain hats...
I used Bakers Secret, which iirc are teflon coated fwiw.

[wreck]

it will run with 44's but will be restricted . I've 2600cc ,I recently had some flow testing and did some improvements on the heads . Heads have 47 intake and 40 exhaust's . even with a small 38mm diameter port ,48 DRLA's with 42mm Venturi's were restrictive . pulling flow back to approx 195 CFM at 25in.

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Thank you both for the responses. Using a baking tray as a rain hat – love it. I rescued a 914 racecar that did not have rain hats on it and I picked it up the day after a rain storm down here and sure enough there was water in the carburetor throats.

Appreciate the feedback on the weber sizing. I’m more concerned with having a car be responsive around town and in the canyons then all out speed, I suspect I will be using the torque of this engine more than outright horsepower. Since I have them and a service kit on hand already I think I might give the 44s a try knowing that I’m leaving some power on the table.

I would love to get a modern EFI set up going for this at some point, but I may need to let my wallet recover a little bit first.

Thank you again, have a good night all.

That carburetor linkage looks like a nice piece of engineering, I will check it out.

[Piledriver]

A microsquirt with harness and a vw beetle (2000 vintage) 4 tower coil pack will get you 90% there for around $400ish.

My first crank wheel setup was the bolt holes for the clutch that go through the flywheel and a scrounged sensor from a ford.
(also required a cam sync from a modded distributor.)

My current wheel lives in a stripped distributor and was originally a spur gear for rc trucks.
The sensor cost $7, and reads past 15k rpm...

[Tdskip]

A microsquirt with harness and a vw beetle (2000 vintage) 4 tower coil pack will get you 90% there for around $400ish.

My first crank wheel setup was the bolt holes for the clutch that go through the flywheel and a scrounged sensor from a ford.
(also required a cam sync from a modded distributor.)

My current wheel lives in a stripped distributor and was originally a spur gear for rc trucks.
The sensor cost $7, and reads past 15k rpm...

Well that is clever!

[Piledriver]

Being cheap helps. Being an old USAF ECM toad helps more.
Both setups were exercises in what was possible with minimal fabrication or $.