2276 build

[madmike]

prolly a misprint never seen a 43mm and u won't need 44's,,, 42's work fine,, on my testing I could really tell the 40's leave power on the table

[buguy]

Crap. I misunderstood. You can't really build a 1915 with stock rods and B pistons. Too short. Need A pistons, or 5.6 rods. Back to the drawing board.
I could machine the bottom of the barrels down but then I would have to have shorter pushrods and tubes (40hp).
Edit: Ok I'm double misunderstood! For whatever reason my brain is stuck on that I have B pistons.... And I dont. I have A pistons. 1915 will be fine with those. Well... As fine as a cast piston can be.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Crap. I misunderstood. You can't really build a 1915 with stock rods and B pistons. Too short. Need A pistons, or 5.6 rods. Back to the drawing board.
I could machine the bottom of the barrels down but then I would have to have shorter pushrods and tubes (40hp).
Edit: Ok I'm double misunderstood! For whatever reason my brain is stuck on that I have B pistons.... And I dont. I have A pistons. 1915 will be fine with those. Well... As fine as a cast piston can be.

One of the advantages here, beside learning stuff, is that you document your miss-learnings for others and for you to return to occasionally when you forget again. I've done it many times and I thank Doc and his crew plus Leather.

Lee

[buguy]

Agreed

[Schweg]

What rods are you looking to run H or I beam?

I’m looking and thinking that I would hold I’m not seeing a huge reason for H beams.

[buguy]

If I build the 1915 I would use the stock rods. On a 2276 it would definitely get H beam.

[madmike]

I have stock rods in my 1915 w/turbo ,they will be fine, just Balance them and everything else

[buguy]

I will do the best I can with it! Probably just going to grab some cheap 40x35 heads for it and let er rip.

[madmike]

gonna find a CW crank right?

[buguy]

No not for the 1915. I'm really only building it because I have all the parts. My stock 1600 heads and the case thrust is toast so I just can't put any money into it. The cam I chose really is too big and the turbo doesn't really work very well on it. So instead of buying heads for the 1600...and a smaller cam.... And sourcing another 13t, it just makes more sense to increase displacement so what I already have will work better. I think a 1915 will work great with the 422 lift/250@50 cam and I think the turbo will suit it perfectly. It is faster overall with these parts on the 1600, but it's not as streetable as it was with the stock cam and 13t turbo. The 1600 has worked super well so far and has really held up like a champ, I just started with a junk engine. I assumed I'd have it blown up by now!
When I build the 2276 (or 2180) it will get 100% new parts. It will be purpose built the way I want it.

[madmike]

so your going to just pound out the center main on ur new case
with a non CW crank, boostin to 30 psi again?

[buguy]

Sure why not! Actually I'm going to add some compression to this one and keep boost down to the 20-25 psi range. Also my case isn't new. It's one I bought in 2007 when I built the draw through. Bought it out of a bug that had a dash fire for $150.

[Schweg]

No not for the 1915. I'm really only building it because I have all the parts. My stock 1600 heads and the case thrust is toast so I just can't put any money into it. The cam I chose really is too big and the turbo doesn't really work very well on it. So instead of buying heads for the 1600...and a smaller cam.... And sourcing another 13t, it just makes more sense to increase displacement so what I already have will work better. I think a 1915 will work great with the 422 lift/250@50 cam and I think the turbo will suit it perfectly. It is faster overall with these parts on the 1600, but it's not as streetable as it was with the stock cam and 13t turbo. The 1600 has worked super well so far and has really held up like a champ, I just started with a junk engine. I assumed I'd have it blown up by now!
When I build the 2276 (or 2180) it will get 100% new parts. It will be purpose built the way I want it.

I also struggle with nice parts vs value portion of all of these builds! It’s not just a crank, it’s a crank plus flywheel and gears and bearings. So buying a CW 69mm crank is a hard thing to do when you have an eye on going bigger.

I keep trying to find a way to build a big engine in stages like buying nice heads and using them in a 1915. Or buy super nice 92 cut heads and use slip in 88mm, But it seems pointless on a stock or near stock bottom end.

My personal call is I’m going to try and update all the items I have neglected like breaks and tires while saving some of my nickels and dimes for the ultimate 2L+ build.

With all the above said I’m interested to see how you like the 1915 and if it’s worth it not having a stroker crank.


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[buguy]

Yeah I have the same dilemma. I need brakes too. I go back and fourth on the heads for the 1915. Buy cheap ones to throw on, or buy the ones I want for the stroker. I'm just worried I'd be bummed to build a nice big shiny stroker only to put used heads on it.
And yes. I just couldn't bring myself to buy a CW 69mm crank when they are the same price as an 82 mm.
I guess I won't know how I feel about the 1915 compared to a stroker until I actually have a stroker. I have a feeling I will like it just fine. As long as I get a little of that low end back. Also hope I can turn a few more revs than the 1600. Seems to fall off around 5700 or so now. I'd like to turn it more like 6500.

[Schweg]

Fair. I would also like to be around 6500 rpm.

I’m thinking I’m going to work towards a some what budget build like not h rods but I middle of the road parts but nice and see what it will do.

I found an old hot VW article about putting 26psi on a set of aa pistons with a 1915 build and making 340 hp before it went. I’m sure more could be had with EFI and good spark control