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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:48 pm
by Piledriver
Type 4 Unleashed wrote:So you gonna go 10,000 rpm :lol:
Do they make those any other way?
Those are all I can find...

I want to swap out my floppy stocker, but a 10000+ RPM tach would look... kinda silly to me in the dash of my 914.

... A scale to ~8/8500 would be ~reasonable. Even 7 is probably sufficient.

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:52 pm
by Type 4 Unleashed
Piledriver wrote:
Type 4 Unleashed wrote:So you gonna go 10,000 rpm :lol:
Do they make those any other way?
Those are all I can find...

I want to swap out my floppy stocker, but a 10000+ RPM tach would look... kinda silly to me in the dash of my 914.

... A scale to ~8/8500 would be ~reasonable. Even 7 is probably sufficient.
Actually, a factory VDO 10,000 rpm tach in a 914 looks darn good :lol:

And anyways I was commenting on Jonas's new tach.

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:46 am
by jonas_linder
Maybe I wasn't clear enough.. I GOT it for FREE.. it's not new.. I don't know if it has been used in there race engine, but if it would have it should have been up to 10 500 rpm many times ;) My engine will turn at least 7500 rpm 8)

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:57 am
by jonas_linder
Update... again :shock:

This friday i drove to my friends Mike and Craig to help them remove a gearbox from a porsche 924. In return I got the drive shafts, CV-joints and stubaxels 8)

The CV-joints is bus size and bolts on to the bus gearbox.
The stubaxels is identical to the bug stub except the flange is made for the bus size CV-joint.
The driveshaft is bug length but has longer splines = bus/924 CVjoints bolt's on without mods!

This means that the bus gearbox is almost a bolt in :) I have to make the gearbox mounts though!

Anyway, here is some pictures :)

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Mike and Craig ( http://www.racing-green.com )

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Ofcourse Jansson helped me, we got to borrow a fork-lift

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Lifting to a much nicer work height

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The big bolts where very stuborn.. this is how it looked when we were done :lol: This is after heat, 3m long arm to try to get it of

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Jansson is doing the other side while I'm doing the last on the right side

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The shafts, axles and CV-joints

This is all for now, keep looking for more :D

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:20 am
by type3
Did you get the trailing arms too? :)


cheers,
type3

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:43 am
by Steve Arndt
Get the arms, and sway bar.

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:26 pm
by jonas_linder
the arms are steel and identical to the bug ones.. so no ;)

The anti sway might be intressting though :D

Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:18 am
by jonas_linder
Last weekend I got to borrow a 091 gearbox from a friend, thanks martin!

Here is a picture of my daily driver I mentioned earlier. It will eventually get some type4 power too 8)

Image

Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:32 am
by type3
jonas_linder wrote:the arms are steel and identical to the bug ones.. so no ;)
...but, but, but, that's why you should get them... :lol:

jonas_linder wrote:Last weekend I got to borrow a 091 gearbox from a friend, thanks martin!

Here is a picture of my daily driver I mentioned earlier. It will eventually get some type4 power too 8)

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Very nice daily! :)


cheers,
type3

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:36 pm
by jonas_linder
I already have nice steelarms ;)

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:26 pm
by jonas_linder
Update... FINALLY :D

Today at last!! I got to work on my car again.. it felt very good 8)

The first thing in order was to move things around... very boring.. at last the pan sat there.. in good working height.. I walked around it looking at it.. seeing all the ugly burnmarks from the weldning on the body, how someone had put the jack under the pan while jacking up the car.. dented it.. I wasn't pleased.. and I had to modifie it for the gearbox and mount the rollcage (I have to install one to register the car with my engine).. And after reading Sandeeps report of how the seatrack come lose I wanted to redo that too!

So I decided to repaint it again... dohhhhh :?

Anyway.... I want this car to be nice, so I felt there is no compromise :)

Here is the pan in nice workheight, most of the dents are fixed, me and jansson (with the black bug) thought about how to best mount the gearbox.
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Have anyone seen a 091 next to a bug gearbox ? It is.. yeah.. se for your self ;)
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Lastly I put the rotating steelbrush on the angle grinder and removed the paint so I could see where the spotwelds are.
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This piece is going to be removed because the bus gearbox shiftercone (correct term?! :lol: ) is sitting higher.

The original front mount on the pan have to go to, it hits the gearbox!

I hope I dont bore you to death 8)

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 3:10 pm
by Unkl Ian
jonas_linder wrote:
I hope I dont bore you to death 8)

Never.

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:21 pm
by Piledriver
I got my sons 091 box in his 1302 with custom mounts and only a small amount of hammer work. and the shift coupling is in the std place. I also hammer clearanced for the bus CVs... The bell mousing flange sits up ~12mm higher than std, so it's not a 5 degree mount, maybe 2 degree. Works excellent.

The trick is to skip the nosecone mount entirely and make an over-the-top midmount, you can get the tranny further forward so the shift linkage is aligned properly. Only minor clerancing required. Fully welding the framehorns is suggested, esp with the power you are at, even with a Kafer brace it can't hurt.

Sorry, no pics other than the ancient ones. I still have the rear mount plate pattern, I think. (I had several blanks made)

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 10:34 pm
by Passatman
A guy here in jamaica also did the same thing you did pile by making his own mounts. Their was no cutting of the frame at all. His gearbox just slip right in.

Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 5:38 am
by jonas_linder
Unkl Ian wrote:
jonas_linder wrote:
I hope I dont bore you to death 8)
Never.
And if I would.. I could live with a few lives on my conscience :lol:
Piledriver wrote:I got my sons 091 box in his 1302 with custom mounts and only a small amount of hammer work. and the shift coupling is in the std place. I also hammer clearanced for the bus CVs... The bell mousing flange sits up ~12mm higher than std, so it's not a 5 degree mount, maybe 2 degree. Works excellent.

The trick is to skip the nosecone mount entirely and make an over-the-top midmount, you can get the tranny further forward so the shift linkage is aligned properly. Only minor clerancing required. Fully welding the framehorns is suggested, esp with the power you are at, even with a Kafer brace it can't hurt.

Sorry, no pics other than the ancient ones. I still have the rear mount plate pattern, I think. (I had several blanks made)
I want to raise the tranny too! That is why I make these changes! with the last build I had the deepsump in height with the frame horns.

I will skip the nosecone mount, as I said, it will be cut away ;)

Thanks for the suggestion on the frame horns, I will burn it together with the TIG 8)
Passatman wrote:A guy here in jamaica also did the same thing you did pile by making his own mounts. Their was no cutting of the frame at all. His gearbox just slip right in.
But I don't want to be like everyone else :lol: