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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 9:48 pm
by Piledriver
Type 4 Unleashed wrote:So you gonna go 10,000 rpm

Do they make those any other way?
Those are all I can find...
I want to swap out my floppy stocker, but a 10000+ RPM tach would look... kinda silly to me in the dash of my 914.
... A scale to ~8/8500 would be ~reasonable. Even 7 is probably sufficient.
Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2007 10:52 pm
by Type 4 Unleashed
Piledriver wrote:Type 4 Unleashed wrote:So you gonna go 10,000 rpm

Do they make those any other way?
Those are all I can find...
I want to swap out my floppy stocker, but a 10000+ RPM tach would look... kinda silly to me in the dash of my 914.
... A scale to ~8/8500 would be ~reasonable. Even 7 is probably sufficient.
Actually, a factory VDO 10,000 rpm tach in a 914 looks darn good
And anyways I was commenting on Jonas's new tach.
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:46 am
by jonas_linder
Maybe I wasn't clear enough.. I GOT it for FREE.. it's not new.. I don't know if it has been used in there race engine, but if it would have it should have been up to 10 500 rpm many times

My engine will turn at least 7500 rpm

Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 4:57 am
by jonas_linder
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 6:20 am
by type3
Did you get the trailing arms too?
cheers,
type3
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 9:43 am
by Steve Arndt
Get the arms, and sway bar.
Posted: Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:26 pm
by jonas_linder
the arms are steel and identical to the bug ones.. so no
The anti sway might be intressting though

Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 5:18 am
by jonas_linder
Last weekend I got to borrow a 091 gearbox from a friend, thanks martin!
Here is a picture of my daily driver I mentioned earlier. It will eventually get some type4 power too

Posted: Fri Jun 29, 2007 7:32 am
by type3
jonas_linder wrote:the arms are steel and identical to the bug ones.. so no

...but, but, but, that's why you should get them...
jonas_linder wrote:Last weekend I got to borrow a 091 gearbox from a friend, thanks martin!
Here is a picture of my daily driver I mentioned earlier. It will eventually get some type4 power too

Very nice daily!
cheers,
type3
Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 2:36 pm
by jonas_linder
I already have nice steelarms

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:26 pm
by jonas_linder
Update... FINALLY
Today at last!! I got to work on my car again.. it felt very good
The first thing in order was to move things around... very boring.. at last the pan sat there.. in good working height.. I walked around it looking at it.. seeing all the ugly burnmarks from the weldning on the body, how someone had put the jack under the pan while jacking up the car.. dented it.. I wasn't pleased.. and I had to modifie it for the gearbox and mount the rollcage (I have to install one to register the car with my engine).. And after reading Sandeeps report of how the seatrack come lose I wanted to redo that too!
So I decided to repaint it again... dohhhhh
Anyway.... I want this car to be nice, so I felt there is no compromise
Here is the pan in nice workheight, most of the dents are fixed, me and jansson (with the black bug) thought about how to best mount the gearbox.
Have anyone seen a 091 next to a bug gearbox ? It is.. yeah.. se for your self
Lastly I put the rotating steelbrush on the angle grinder and removed the paint so I could see where the spotwelds are.
This piece is going to be removed because the bus gearbox shiftercone (correct term?!

) is sitting higher.
The original front mount on the pan have to go to, it hits the gearbox!
I hope I dont bore you to death

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 3:10 pm
by Unkl Ian
jonas_linder wrote:
I hope I dont bore you to death

Never.
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 4:21 pm
by Piledriver
I got my sons 091 box in his 1302 with custom mounts and only a small amount of hammer work. and the shift coupling is in the std place. I also hammer clearanced for the bus CVs... The bell mousing flange sits up ~12mm higher than std, so it's not a 5 degree mount, maybe 2 degree. Works excellent.
The trick is to skip the nosecone mount entirely and make an over-the-top midmount, you can get the tranny further forward so the shift linkage is aligned properly. Only minor clerancing required. Fully welding the framehorns is suggested, esp with the power you are at, even with a Kafer brace it can't hurt.
Sorry, no pics other than the ancient ones. I still have the rear mount plate pattern, I think. (I had several blanks made)
Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 10:34 pm
by Passatman
A guy here in jamaica also did the same thing you did pile by making his own mounts. Their was no cutting of the frame at all. His gearbox just slip right in.
Posted: Mon Jul 09, 2007 5:38 am
by jonas_linder
Unkl Ian wrote:jonas_linder wrote:
I hope I dont bore you to death

Never.
And if I would.. I could live with a few lives on my conscience
Piledriver wrote:I got my sons 091 box in his 1302 with custom mounts and only a small amount of hammer work. and the shift coupling is in the std place. I also hammer clearanced for the bus CVs... The bell mousing flange sits up ~12mm higher than std, so it's not a 5 degree mount, maybe 2 degree. Works excellent.
The trick is to skip the nosecone mount entirely and make an over-the-top midmount, you can get the tranny further forward so the shift linkage is aligned properly. Only minor clerancing required. Fully welding the framehorns is suggested, esp with the power you are at, even with a Kafer brace it can't hurt.
Sorry, no pics other than the ancient ones. I still have the rear mount plate pattern, I think. (I had several blanks made)
I want to raise the tranny too! That is why I make these changes! with the last build I had the deepsump in height with the frame horns.
I will skip the nosecone mount, as I said, it will be cut away
Thanks for the suggestion on the frame horns, I will burn it together with the TIG
Passatman wrote:A guy here in jamaica also did the same thing you did pile by making his own mounts. Their was no cutting of the frame at all. His gearbox just slip right in.
But I don't want to be like everyone else
