New guy, new build

[Piledriver]

Old Garret t3 t4 can have them, but draw through is not used anymore except on old school builds.
Google "turbo with carbon seal"

Sticking the TB on the outlet of the turbo allows an intercooler... main reason for blow through.

[Chip Birks]

does anyone do carbon sealed turbos anymore?

Maybe Shag Leone. He's on Facebook. Ron lummus would be another since he is actively building draw through setups.

[chriswillrise]

Old Garret t3 t4 can have them, but draw through is not used anymore except on old school builds.
Google "turbo with carbon seal"

Sticking the TB on the outlet of the turbo allows an intercooler... main reason for blow through.

Oh I know I should convert to blow through but I’d have to change my whole set up just to put my TB on the outlet of the turbo.

[chriswillrise]

Still slowly tuning and turning up the boost.
Purchases a cb hideaway header and I am going to convert to blow through single TB. Didn’t want to change everything up right after getting the car going again but I think the engine bay just doesn’t look good anymore so I’m trying something different

[panel]

Nice! You'll get the BOV sound now with that conversion. See if you can plumb in an air to water intercooler while you're at it.....you wont regret it!!

Lot's of different versions on here that will help you with packaging etc.

[chriswillrise]

Well it finally happened! Pushed hard in cast pistons for a long time and #3 let go. Currently in a little top end rebuild with thick wall 92s and forged icon pistons

[Clonebug]

How much boost were you pushing???
What were your intake temps at that boost level?
How many degrees advance at boost were you running???

I consider P/C's a consumable while learning about the intricacies of turbocharging. Detonation can be subtle and it doesn't take too much to damage the pistons.
My problems were always excessive blowby and when pulling the P/C's there was no obvious damage to the pistons or rings on three of the four sets I went through. We figured there were microscopic cracks causing the blowby and continuing would chance the pistons coming apart with catastrophic results.
We damaged the ring lands on a couple pistons after running around 40 pulls on an engine dyno trying to get max hp. It took 26.5 lbs. of boost to make that happen.
The last change out I rebuilt the engine since it had 46,000 miles on the bottom end and it wasn't much more cost to go farther....I also swapped cams so it made sense to go through it.

I fixed the detonation issues by running W/I which was good to 22 lbs boost. Adding a small intercooler allowed me to consistently pull 23-25 lbs boost while making it a daily driver.
Watch your IAT's and try to keep them under 130* F. and you will have better results. Obviously as close to ambient is better but you can retard timing to compensate for some of it.

I now have 22,000 miles and 4 1/2 years on this engine without touching the top end.

Reliability is achievable with a little attention to detail.

Have fun with your setup.

[chriswillrise]

How much boost were you pushing???
What were your intake temps at that boost level?
How many degrees advance at boost were you running???

I consider P/C's a consumable while learning about the intricacies of turbocharging. Detonation can be subtle and it doesn't take too much to damage the pistons.
My problems were always excessive blowby and when pulling the P/C's there was no obvious damage to the pistons or rings on three of the four sets I went through. We figured there were microscopic cracks causing the blowby and continuing would chance the pistons coming apart with catastrophic results.
We damaged the ring lands on a couple pistons after running around 40 pulls on an engine dyno trying to get max hp. It took 26.5 lbs. of boost to make that happen.
The last change out I rebuilt the engine since it had 46,000 miles on the bottom end and it wasn't much more cost to go farther....I also swapped cams so it made sense to go through it.

I fixed the detonation issues by running W/I which was good to 22 lbs boost. Adding a small intercooler allowed me to consistently pull 23-25 lbs boost while making it a daily driver.
Watch your IAT's and try to keep them under 130* F. and you will have better results. Obviously as close to ambient is better but you can retard timing to compensate for some of it.

I now have 22,000 miles and 4 1/2 years on this engine without touching the top end.

Reliability is achievable with a little attention to detail.

Have fun with your setup.

This motor has been together for about 11 years at 18lbs with water/meth.

I never gapped the rings when I built it either. I just wanted to see how long the cast pistons would last. I honestly don’t know when it happened but I did stall the car a few weeks ago and bump started it because I was still rolling and instantly lost oil pressure because a piece of the piston got stuck in the oil pump.

I’ve been like 23 degrees of timing in boost.
My temps are usually between 120-140 depending on the ambient.
Always shooting for around 11.5:1 under boost and my w/m turns on at 4 lbs

[Clonebug]

Those P/C's don't owe you anything then...... Put on a new set and go for it. If you have some miles on it then a refresh makes sense. If your oil pump picked up debris it would be wise to tear it down and at least clean it if not freshen it up.

I'd drop the timing a couple degrees in the full boost midrange area and try again.
Mine was susceptible to pinging at 3500-4000 rpm under high load when the boost would quickly ramp up to max boost.
If you can..... log it then watch where peak boost is in third and fourth gear and drop timing a couple degrees then listen carefully for detonation.
I had issues when my IAT's went up.
I usually had trouble once they hit 130* F. and adding my intercooler fixed almost all my detonation issues.....especially in the summer when ambient temps were higher....in the spring and fall I had less issues.
My W/I would remove 100* F. from the intake temps but after 18-22 lbs. it became an issue again. The intercooler/W/I combo keeps my IAT's at or close to ambient especially in the fall/spring. I can hold temps at 90*F. or less depending on ambients.

Pushing over 15-17 lbs on pump gas is serious and you have very little leeway on a less than perfect tune.

In December of 2020 I had Mario dyno the engine to see how much hp we could get out of it......I was going to put new P/C's on it anyways so I told him he could use it to test out his new dyno. He managed to get 226 cr. hp. and 255 lb. ft. of torque out of it at 4800 rpm but did crack the ring lands on a couple pistons. The bottom end had 46,000 miles on it at that time.
I had TimsACVW go through the engine and freshen it up and it now has over 21,000 miles on the engine and it's been trouble free at 23-25 lbs boost as a daily driver.
I could tell when my pistons were fatiguing due to higher blowby. You will have a little blowby at high boost loads but if it pushes oil out the crank snout in regular driving you probably have cracked pistons. The cracks are so minute you can't even see them with the naked eye.......at least I couldn't when I examined them. The only noticeable damage was when it was on the dyno and that was due to pushing it past 26 lbs boost which I never did as a daily driver..... 23 lbs. was the max usually.

[chriswillrise]

Motor is back together and running great. Did my first little pull after making sure everything was working as it should

It was a super hot day, IATs were 105 cruising on the freeway right before this pull