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If I change the pin from A7 to A0 or A1, the baro reads correctly, and boost/vac gauge in TS also works... But engine runs like garbage. Set it back to A7, engine runs fine. Did you still need to see the .ini file? Is it the "maincontroller.ini" file?

Changed acceleration enrichment from TPS based to MAP based. Seems to work much better. Although I am just revving it to test.

Your VE table is tuned with Baro being wrong and Baro is part of the fueling equation.
I assume you have either used auto tune or manually adjusted it to make it run right and with correct Baro the table is off.
That is my guess anyway.
No need to see the ini, it is probably just fine.

Yes. I use autotune. My observation is the VE table is tuned per RPM and manifold pressure... If baro is wrong (which we all see it is), how does autotune make the adjustments? You would think the wak baro reading would, in turn, make a wak air/fuel adjustment. Am I reading too much into this?

Baro is part of the internal equation for pulse width.
PW = REQ_FUEL * VE * MAP * E + accel + Injector_open_time
E = gamma_Enrich = (Warmup/100) * (O2_Closed Loop/100) * (AirCorr/100) * (BaroCorr/100)

Yes, the autotune will target the required lambda reading, and correct whatever cell in the fuel table that reading relates to. So if the Map is 100kpa but the sensor is reading 70, it will just feed whatever fuel the engine needs and stick it in the cell for 70kpa. If you fix a problem with a sensor used for the fuel calc, the table will need fixing to match.

Right... But what am I to fix, or is this an issue that needs fixing?

I suppose as long as Baro always gives the same reading I would think you could leave your tune set to that.
But if Baro is a floating pin there is not any guarantee that it won't fluctuate under some conditions so I would want to fix it and redo my tune.
Or at very minimum set "Baro Sensor kPa At 0.0 Volts(kpa)" and "Baro Sensor kPa At 5.0 Volts(kpa)" both equal to the reading you have been getting (around 214) so you will be sure it will not fluctuate, but of course your TS boost gauge and possibly others will not give accurate readings.

I drove around for ages with no baro sensor, on MS it grabs a reference at power on from the manifold vac sensor.....
That's OK unless you have a reset while running, in that case the reference is whatever the current manifold vac is, does not work well...
...so the added a setting to set the reference to a range.

Mine was .99-100KPA.. don't know if speeduino does that, but if it does, it works great unless you live in the Rocky Mountains or Alps etc... Set it to whatever your MAP sensor reads before cranking.

Given that you have boost 2nd baro is likely more important, if you have the sensor, they usually work.
I picked up some tiny pcbs off Ebay with 2 SMT sensors on them (you order the components from Digikey and solder together)

I'd set them up a bit thinner, and they have a tube nipple with no barb, but I have my MS3s in MS1 cases.
(one is actually a V1.01 mainboard, one is a V2.2, neither are "supported" configurations, you are better off with a V3 board but I have never had actual reliability issues with the ECUs)

Been a while since I posted last. Currently modifying my Joe blow 2 belt kit to a single serpentine belt setup... The reason, probably obvious... The crank trigger issue. I blame myself for machining the original Joeblow crank pulley to deep when installing the trigger wheel. Made numerous mounting brackets for the trigger sensor. Thought I finally had the issue behind me... Still had random tooth loss. I've purchased TDS's crank trigger kit, and had them machine/mount the trigger wheel. Wish me luck.

xzener wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2026 11:50 am Been a while since I posted last. Currently modifying my Joe blow 2 belt kit to a single serpentine belt setup... The reason, probably obvious... The crank trigger issue. I blame myself for machining the original Joeblow crank pulley to deep when installing the trigger wheel. Made numerous mounting brackets for the trigger sensor. Thought I finally had the issue behind me... Still had random tooth loss. I've purchased TDS's crank trigger kit, and had them machine/mount the trigger wheel. Wish me luck.

Hopefully this solves your problems!

Depending on the version of the ECU you may be able to swap to EpicEFI firmware instead of Rusefi (assuming you are using that currently). Which is better is a good question! But swapping firmware does open a can of worms & means a full remap from scratch.

Good news! She fired right up first try. Was doing some adjustments in Tuner Studio... Blew an oil line. Going to fix that once and for all. Sent my oil filter relocator mount to have threaded inserts put in.. Now I can mount it in a better location. Which will relieve strain on the hoses.

Oil filter relocated. No more leaks, and hopefully blow outs... Fired right up. Adjusted the TB idle screw and IAC. Still wants to stumble and fart coming off throttle. I think a BPV might be in my future. It should help the stumbling and relieve unneeded pressure which will help cool things down a bit in the engine compartment. I'm hoping to install it stealthy (unnoticeable unless looking for it) but the BPV is larger than I thought, requiring 1" hose... That may prove to be problematic. What are your guys thoughts on using a BPV?

If you tap the throttle at idle (car stationary), does it cleanly pick up revs or stumble/ cough? What happens to the MAP readings?
If it lags, coughs or stumbles, it sounds like the Accel Enrichment needs some adjustment. Luckily it’s easy to do stationary, & you ignore the lambda reading and add enough extra fuel to get a crisp pick up. Before that, do check your high map cells at idle to make sure they have decent values but the map sensor might be a tiny bit slow and need help from the Accel Enrichment (injector position is also a factor)

Make sure your Lambda delay is reasonable and then take it for a drive and let Autotune add fuel to the cells in the accel range. It's best to richen up the load cells than to add a Accel shot and waste fuel every time you stab the throttle.
If it's a really bad stumble just richen up the cells up above the idle area then take it for an Autotune drive so it can lean it out.instead of adding fuel.
Accel enrich is just to get that slightest pause out... not to fix a bigger stumble.
Here is a video from Andy Whittle that might help a bit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KSUUVuSqRCY