Internal mods for direct coil control

[roachdogg28]

Pile i must apologize, i gave bad information earlier when i said the internal circuit bip373 was the problem child. It actually was the one i wired in. I had a good noid signal on the jimstim for both coil drivers, then i plugged it into the laptop and BAM it went 12V. Repeated what i did a couple times to find that even though i had a mica insulator, it still shorted somehow. I pulled it off the case and it operated perfectly, then i mounted back to the case with more care, and now it works. I put it in the car and it sputtered a lot more...SUCCESS!!

Thanks for your help pile, it couldn't be done w/o you.

I need some new plug wires, and i think i'll be good to go. Im thinking explorer plug wires might be best for length... anyone know good wires to get for an EDIS coil?

[roachdogg28]

And its running!! I need to up my mains cuz it goes way lean at anything over 1/3 throttle, and get new plugs and wires cuz the crap connections are causing a pretty bad misfire, but im still WAAAYYY happy with it.

[Piledriver]

And its running!! I need to up my mains cuz it goes way lean at anything over 1/3 throttle, and get new plugs and wires cuz the crap connections are causing a pretty bad misfire, but im still WAAAYYY happy with it.

COOL!!!

It's usually a Very Good Idea to deburr the mating surfaces/edges of the transistor and the case with some very fine sandpaper, esp around the hole...
It doesn't take much to poke a hole.
Even a crack can promote an arc as you can get a 2-300v kickback spike, once it arcs it's done, go buy some new insulator kits from Rat Shack.

I need to up my mains cuz it ...

Um.... Good luck with that
bump up your reqfuel or drag select your whole VE table and click the up arrow a few times.
(There's a hotkey but my laptop is sleeping comfortably)
Turn OFF any funny accell stuff or EGO until you know what it does and have a very good VE table.

Finding happy (motor happy, you don't count) AFR targets is the 1st step after getting it running ~OK.
VEAL makes most of the VE tuning automagic.
THEN you play with the ignition, thats were the power. fuel economy and drivability is.

There also Be Dragons there. CHT + EGT gauges (and better, logging/alarms) are not just a good idea.

You want resistor wires or resistor plugs for noise suppression.
(both won't hurt, but one or the other will work)
NGK coppers are good and cheap and available ~anywhere.

If you have 19mm reach plugs I have some specific suggestions.
(basically most plugs have a 5/8" hex twin brother, makes life easier in many cases)

Now go to Sears tomorrow and buy yourself a decent automotive DVM to celebrate!

[roachdogg28]

Sorry pile i have carbs on it right now. lol. But i will take all the other advice.

All i need for the injections is my throttle cable setup and more FI hose clamps. Im sure i will fluck something up when i add in injection to the equation so i'll get back to ya. haha

[Piledriver]

Gotcha

Does the advance work as expected?
(verify, don't trust)

Most FLAPS will "rent' you an advance timing light for free, but you have to pay full price before you leave with it...

NAPA can get you IDEAL FI clamps by the box... same price as the hose eaters.
(So can OReillys, for much less, but mine won't sell them to you unless you are a "shop"... Bizarre but true)

I picked up a "double flare" kit for brake lines to give the tube end the right shape so the hose/clamp can't come off even on a bad day.

Search on "cable pull linkage", also check out what Supa is rigging up.
(don't know if you are going single TB or ITBs tho)

[roachdogg28]

No i haven't verified the advance, but it is advancing some i can see on my advance light, but its missing pretty bad, bad enough to cause movement of the motor at idle. I don't want to take her too high until it runs better.

I will try NAPA as my autozone only had a kit with a whole bunch of clamps i will never find use for with about 8 that i will use.

I used a bubble flaring tool to flare the ends of my fuel lines, and i think they will work well. I was able to get by with only 4-5 ft of rubber line with my longest section at 10" lol.

[Piledriver]

Cool, that's the Right Way to do the lines IMHO.

Those AZ clamp kits contain absolutely pure unadulterated Chinese junk too...

Note: I don't actually have issues with Chinese parts per se, but I do when the slots in the screw slots are too shallow for any screwdriver and the hex head are round and/or no apparent SAE or metric size...
The Oreillys version seem much better, but still the same mostly useless sizes issue.

They both sell junk, but Oreallys seems to stock a somewhat better grade of junk.
They also sell the real thing (IDEAL clamps) for $1 ea. assuming you can actually get them to sell you some.
(Try buying online, deliver to store is usually free, and if it's prepaid they cant say jack)

The big bolt kits AZ sells OTOH seem to be a steal, as long as you don't use them for anything too critical.
(They say 8.8... I trust to maybe grade 5)

Get the IDEAL clamps, even if you have to wait a day.

Oreillys sells their own rebranded Magnecor wires. (AZ may too)
They hold up nice.

Where's the coil mounted?

[roachdogg28]

Ive decided to save on cash, time, energy, and buy the msd connector kits, cuz the connectors are the only REAL problem as the wires are near new ones. I reused to ford connectors and boots on these wires, and the connectors aren't up to the task of rebending multiple times.

So NAPA sells the real IDEAL clamps i need?

[Piledriver]

So NAPA sells the real IDEAL clamps i need?

Yep, but they are under their own brand, Balkamp or such.
The clamps in the box say "IDEAL".

Oreillys sells them for less if you have one local.

[Vee Dub Nut]

NAPA can get you IDEAL FI clamps by the box... same price as the hose eaters.
(So can OReillys, for much less, but mine won't sell them to you unless you are a "shop"... Bizarre but true)

Do you have any part numbers you can share for these?

I'll swing by and ask them, but thought you might have them handy.

[Piledriver]

Sorry I don't,as it's been awhile but they are listed online.

[roachdogg28]

The ones i got my eye on are the 5/16" Balkamp fuel injection clamps (BK 7051226). Thes ones are 1.49$ ea, which is 50 cents more than the ones at oriellys', but they have them locally and will sell them to me for sure, so im gonna pick up some today.

[Vee Dub Nut]

Yup... Those are the ones I found on NAPA's website. Thanks for the heads up. I'll need to stop by and pick some up for plumbing.

[roachdogg28]

So i have concluded that the advance is incorrect. Go figure... I checked it with the butt test on my first testdrive, kinda feels how the edis felt locked at 10degrees, but there is some advance going on, but i don't know how much.
Im very uneasy about trusting my crank pulley's timing notches, so pile you mentioned renting a timing light, is there one that can give me a digital readout, something that i don't have to trust my pulley?

Just for kiks, heres my tooth and trigger logs while idling, seems like they cleaned up alot, but im still not sure what is considered correct. I will have to view it again at say 3-4k rpms to see if something interesting happens, im thinking it may be some signal trouble higher up, may be an issue regarding those trim pots, idk.

[Piledriver]

Yes, an advance timing light will have a knob (analog) or buttons(digital) that lets you crank in an offset so your TDC mark will appear to "stay" at TDC.
The offset tells you how much advance you have.
(If you have an accurate degree'd pulley or stick on, you don't need this)

If you are running waste spark, it may look weird as you fire 2X per cycle, once on the compression and once on the exhaust.

They are very easy to use... as long as you have a known correct timing mark to work from.

One of mine is an metal Actron old school analog (Sunpro type) the other is a modern chrome plated plastic Actron version w/ digital RPM readout, 4/6/8/DIS modes etc. (Actron bought Suntune/sunpro or they changed names or something)
Note: waste spark will read RPM 2X higher. DIS is waste spark...

The analog version is marginally easier to use, rev it up, spin the knob so TDC aligns, read knob position, and you have your advance.
The newer digital one has a built in tach which is handy.

I have one of each and they both work peachy.

Most FLAPS carry the Actron lights, the advance version will cost about $100 out the door unless you get it on sale.
They may allow you to check your timing with it in the parking lot.

For giggles, you have tried the VR both ways, right?

It will usually sorta kinda work backwards, but not quite.