EJ25 in 1972 Beetle

[Prtexx]

Stock tank I don't run a surge tank goes from the tank to a filter to the pump and through the subaru type filter by the engine. Have done it this way on five conversions so far.

[Piledriver]

A surge tank/sump can be at the other end of the car, if you are using a feeder pump.

[steezin']

I'm having trouble with the fuel hoses getting kinked because there just isn't much room under the gas tank for my surge tank, fuel pump and filter.

I would double check to see if your using efi fuel line if it is getting kinked (I guess there is a difference), however I am running regular fuel line from my tank to my 100 micron fuel filter, pump, 10 micron fuel filter then EFI fuel hose straight to pressure in.... my return line comes off the rail on the drivers side and am now running it to the neck of my tank (though I think it will sound like a water fall in my tank) but right now I don't have money for exhaust so I doubt I would even be able to here it. To get rid of the sloshing/starvation since I am running just an un-baffled fuel tank I am just going to get some yellow fuel cell foam and try and fit it through the neck as best I can (I also have no sending unit)... in theory this should work...??? right?.... I don't really know


Here is the neck of my tank and the brass little fitting with some locktite on it....

[steezin']

any luck with your fuel system?

[jamesdkline]

any luck with your fuel system?

I haven't messed with it yet. I decided to put that on hold and work on finishing the wiring and installing the interior. The wiring is done except for the reverse lights and the headliner is about half way done. Just waiting on some new bushings for the ragtop in the mail. I'm gonna do what was suggested earlier and just remove the surge tank and see how that goes. That will at least solve my issues as long as I'm over 1/4 tank of gas.

[steezin']

I just put in carpet (well I cut up an eco 6x8 rug) and pad in mine... what did you use for glue? I used some spray adhesive (locktite, and the 77 something something), contact cement gel and the original... poop got everywhere ha not to good with the interior work... I hope you had better luck....

-With the fuel it seems as long as your not auto crossing it/drifting I don't see why you would have a problem.. there is actually a very small fuel tank at a metal salvage yard here and a burp tank for a radiator.... I would check them out if you have one close to you... you may just find what your looking for.

[jamesdkline]

A quick update on my progress. Sorry for the crappy pics - I took them in a hurry tonight just so I could post something since it's been a while.

I've been working on installing the headliner and ragtop (remember, this is a ragtop graft). Here's the finished result.

It's a tweed headliner from Sewfine.




The headliner isn't perfect but considering it's my first ever and I had to adapt a 58-63 headliner to fit my 72 ragtop graft I'm satisfied with the result.




I also installed dynamat in preparation for carpet soon.


Powdercoated my shift lever and emergency brake handle


And started installing a Retrosound Zuma head unit in the dash. It's not really as crooked as the picture suggests.


The last thing I'm working on is some sort of IAC system since my ECU doesn't work with the Subaru IAC. I'm going to try this one from an early 80's bmw with mechanical fuel injection.

It's just a bi-metal strip that is connected to 12v. As it heats up the hole closes and no air is allowed to pass. I'm going to plum it around the throttle plate.

[itawolf]

Bump de bump

[steezin']

looking real good!!

[steezin']

Hey... so where do you get the lines from for a heater (I copied you and bought the summit one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1) ... I have a line going from the bottom on the right side looks to be about 1/2 inch hose running to(or from) the Turbo... is this where i splice it and run either side into the heater? (will this affect the ability to cool the turbo when the heater is not on...?) just trying to double check before I make a stupid mistake...Thanks

[jamesdkline]

Hey... so where do you get the lines from for a heater (I copied you and bought the summit one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1) ... I have a line going from the bottom on the right side looks to be about 1/2 inch hose running to(or from) the Turbo... is this where i splice it and run either side into the heater? (will this affect the ability to cool the turbo when the heater is not on...?) just trying to double check before I make a stupid mistake...Thanks

I'm not sure about the turbo motors but on the NA ones there is a heater loop. It's the connections in red in the picture below. Even if you don't run a heater there needs to be a free-flowing loop in between these two connections for the thermostat to function properly.

[jhoefer]

Hey... so where do you get the lines from for a heater (I copied you and bought the summit one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-991102-1) ... I have a line going from the bottom on the right side looks to be about 1/2 inch hose running to(or from) the Turbo... is this where i splice it and run either side into the heater? (will this affect the ability to cool the turbo when the heater is not on...?) just trying to double check before I make a stupid mistake...Thanks

I'm not sure about the turbo motors but on the NA ones there is a heater loop. It's the connections in red in the picture below. Even if you don't run a heater there needs to be a free-flowing loop in between these two connections for the thermostat to function properly.

The top connection is Supply To Heater, the bottom connection is Return To Waterpump. The top one is fed from the center of the water crossover pipe on top of the block, the bottom one runs straight down to one of the inlets on the water pump. The turbo motors are the same. You must use a bypass-style heater control valve such as http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalog/h ... -3667.html , a basic cutoff-style valve will not allow the thermostat to function.

I don't think it's a good idea to tap into the turbo coolant lines. They are designed to passively cool the turbo via convection after the engine is turned off and you could potentially cook your turbo if you alter the cooling circuit there. It would probably be ok to do it the way you suggest but flow through the heater would be restricted so it may not work as well. Also make sure it's the turbo coolant line you're looking at and not the oil return. I'd use the stock heater connections if possible.

[GS guy]

I'm running mine through a Y block. One line runs from the water manifold on top of the engine down to one of the Y inlets, the other Y inlet comes from the heater outlet. The Y outlet runs directly into the fitting at the waterpump. This way my heater can use a simple on/off valve that came with my Vintage Air heater kit. At the same time I maintain full flow from the upper water manifold down to the thermostat. Should work?
Jeff

[Buggin_74]

Give it a go like that but you will probably find the flow through the heater core isn't that good as it takes the path of least resistance which is the bypass.

I've got a 4way heater valve for mine to try and get around the problem just haven't hooked it up yet, winter isn't rwal cold here in Aus

[GS guy]

Yea, I may have to bias the flow with some restriction at certain points? All my heater hoses are 5/8" and the heater inlet is coming directly off the main engine to radiator line.

BTW, I've had to utilize several molded heater hoses due to space restrictions, a couple of U-bends, elbows, etc. I think one of the U-bends I have might work well if someone wanted to simply connect the heater inlet to outlet at the engine and not run a heater. I can measure the hose if anyone is interested, my original heater tubes on the engine are long gone.
Jeff