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Just in case you guys think I'm slacking....A little update....I can only fit so many pieces on my small mill and before any one says use a fly cutter...I don't have one and that end mill in the pic was the sharpest one I have Also, no power feed here





Looks like the old mill needs a little tramming.......

take care

pete

Nice...Thanks for the update.

Looking good. Pete you need anything?
Let me know!

Here's my low tech split cable linkage. Haven't tried it yet but I'm alomost ready to fire off my freshly rebuilt 2056.

You might find you have problems keeping both cables to the carburetors pulling evenly from that yoke. One cable may pull slightly differently than the other so you'll be unbalanced. I don't know, but if that happens you could look at BMW motorcycle distribution boxes, like this one:



It's $40 bucks (cheap for BMW parts) but a proven design. That's from the parts fiche at Max BMW (http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/ ... ?vid=51676 fiche number 32, Steering. Cables 4 are to the carbs, 2 is the choke cable (don't use it) and 3 is from the accelerator. Or find a used one cheaper on e-bay. If you don't need it, great, but if you find you have problems there's a solution that should pretty much plug right in to the rest of what you already have there.

Let us know how it works, I'm extremely curious.

I have a hand throttle on my engine test stand. When I actuate the throttle, both shafts start turning at the exact same time.

The stock throttle cable is much stiffer with a solid rod at the end, compared to the bike brake cable I'm using on the test stand. This should help keep things aligned even better. I'll save your link just in case though.

i may try to hunt one of those down for my own use, I am interested in a cable throttle, and I have yet to find a good choke solution. how does that choke work?

fusername wrote:i may try to hunt one of those down for my own use, I am interested in a cable throttle, and I have yet to find a good choke solution. how does that choke work?

Choke? We don't need no stinking Choke!
People still use those things?

yeah, some of us actually wanna drive our cars when it's cold out!

Just a small update... I've kinda changed my plans. Where as I was going to just supply the wheels and brackets, instead, I'm going to make up some complete sets to pass out for testing. I have located a source for the stainless cable sheathing and fancy aluminum ends. These are a lot lower in cost than the Lokar cables. I think this is the way to go. Everything has to work together and having the right cables is key.

Also, I've changed the setup slightly on the weber arrangement. I'm making the it so that you don't have to modify the Weber throttle arms, just bolt the wheel on and still retain the adjuster and such. I have all the brackets done, working on the wheels right now. Thanks for being patient

happily waiting, I would love to kill my hex bar, suddenly the name makes more sense.

Here's the updated Weber wheel. This retains the original lever, with out modification.



In the next picture and my question to Weber owners is, What is ths part of the lever used for???

Originally,it's used to pull on with a bellcrank..

I'd still try to do the split pulley//clamp thing.

You may find a screw out the backside of the pulley to mount secondary return springs is required... The Weber return springs on the shaft are a tad wimpy by themselves.

slowtwitch wrote:...What is this part of the lever used for???

Common use is for the cross-bar style down rod, not normally used with "under the alternator" style linkages.

Piledriver wrote: You may find a screw out the backside of the pulley to mount secondary return springs is required... The Weber return springs on the shaft are a tad wimpy by themselves.

Could the extra spring be mounted on the opposite side of the carb????