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On a NA motor nothing is wrong with returnless, in fact I'm doing a returnless setup on my k20 swap just because I can. On a boosted motor returnless absolutely sucks donkey marbles.

I don't know how good you are at welding but you could get some steal -6 bungs and weld them on the ends of the rail after you cut it in half, then plumb it with the standard return line. it would be easier then mounting all that stuff and sorting the fuel gauge sender in the tank.

andy198712 wrote:

Clonebug wrote:

andy198712 wrote:http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/ ... 06CF4E.jpg
so here's what i was thinking....

chop the fuel rail in half, use the current feed as my feed guessing i'll just have to fuel clamp that on there, then put a fitting in either open end and run a pipe between the two.

it it will feed to the current spout, then from a fitting, to the other side and dead end there..... simples!!

You should put the regulator on the end of the other rail to bypass the excess fuel back to the tank instead of being a deadend.

andy198712 wrote:excuse the link i'm having trouble getting the pics to work!

When in photobucket you need to copy the last line of the choices. The one that has the "IMG" tags on each end. Paste that in your post and you are good to go.

i tried that and it told me about pics not being more then 800 pixels high or something.... will just take landscape maybe...


Well this is the really cunning part!
i'm going to mount the GSXR pump in my tank... which is internally regulated and cooled by the surrounding fuel and runs a dead end system....43psi i think?

Ah yes.

I neglected to take that into consideration since all my uploads to photobucket are set to 800 x 600......

That is one of the considerations to factor when uploading photobucket pics to STF.

If I were you I would do the same and set all uploads to Photobucket to be done in 800 x 600 and that way you will have no problems copying pics to STF...

If running the new version of Photobucket it is difficult at the least to find that setting.... that is why I still run the old PhotoBucket for now.

Clonebug wrote:

andy198712 wrote:

Clonebug wrote:

andy198712 wrote:http://s40.photobucket.com/albums/e222/ ... 06CF4E.jpg
so here's what i was thinking....

chop the fuel rail in half, use the current feed as my feed guessing i'll just have to fuel clamp that on there, then put a fitting in either open end and run a pipe between the two.

it it will feed to the current spout, then from a fitting, to the other side and dead end there..... simples!!

You should put the regulator on the end of the other rail to bypass the excess fuel back to the tank instead of being a deadend.

andy198712 wrote:excuse the link i'm having trouble getting the pics to work!

When in photobucket you need to copy the last line of the choices. The one that has the "IMG" tags on each end. Paste that in your post and you are good to go.

i tried that and it told me about pics not being more then 800 pixels high or something.... will just take landscape maybe...


Well this is the really cunning part!
i'm going to mount the GSXR pump in my tank... which is internally regulated and cooled by the surrounding fuel and runs a dead end system....43psi i think?

Ah yes.

I neglected to take that into consideration since all my uploads to photobucket are set to 800 x 600......

That is one of the considerations to factor when uploading photobucket pics to STF.

If I were you I would do the same and set all uploads to Photobucket to be done in 800 x 600 and that way you will have no problems copying pics to STF...

If running the new version of Photobucket it is difficult at the least to find that setting.... that is why I still run the old PhotoBucket for now.

i just checked and seemed to be set to that? maybe now i clicked saved it will change, but that was the size that was already highlighted.... will try again soon!

thanks though!!

supaninja wrote:On a NA motor nothing is wrong with returnless, in fact I'm doing a returnless setup on my k20 swap just because I can. On a boosted motor returnless absolutely sucks donkey marbles.

I don't know how good you are at welding but you could get some steal -6 bungs and weld them on the ends of the rail after you cut it in half, then plumb it with the standard return line. it would be easier then mounting all that stuff and sorting the fuel gauge sender in the tank.

why does it suck though? thats what i'm pondering...

i was just gonna use the stock fuel gauge for the bug, easier. i know what you mean, but when i can get a fuel pump for say £40 maybe less? and i dont need a reg, or added fittings it just works out cheaper..... a friend will weld it in the tank so no worries there, just going for cheap and simple lol

otherwise a walbro or something pump is about £100 in the UK then a reg (to be fair could be cheap) but more fittings needed ect

also what are people using for fuel line and securing it?

just use the standard outlet from the tank for my eberspacher

i was thinking use that connector but push on my fuel line and then who knows at the engine end....? looks like the stadard gsxr setup uses fuel clamps for the rail, good enough for tens of thousands on the road...good enough for me

thinking about it my ninja just uses clamps but thats only carbed

Returnless fuel systems suck for a boosted motor because they do not have a fpr with boost reference, that's the short answer. If your asking why you need a boost reference fpr it's because the injectors have the fuel pressure on the back side, and boost pressure on the tip side which cancels each other. So if you run 50psi fuel pressure and 10psi of boost now your injectors are spraying as much fuel as if it has 40psi of fuel pressure. Not as big of a deal with only 10 psi, but I used to run 28psi of boost and could cause a very bad day.

ahhhh perfect sense cheers!

Didn't want to spam up the other thread, so here's my predicament...

Bore spacing a bit


and my cure.....


i'm just going to trim the manifolds down till they fit the spacing.... seems an OK idea to me? i don't think i'll need to trim down very far, i may make up a mounting plate or something to fix the TBI's to the manifold or epoxy them into the manifolds i'm unsure at the minute....

OK chopped one set down a bit at a time till i got where i wanted.... then copied the final cut on the other manifold, ended up about here



i was going to remove some material from the inside of the manifolds so though drop in a touch, then epoxy them in place.... any reason not to? or should i buy some silicone hose and some clamps and joint them that way?

any thoughts on both?

i also thought i would fix the old tops of the manifolds to the top of the ITB's probably by a two part glue again as welding these worries me.... well aluminium brazing which i thought about, i just don't want to put too much heat in them...?
anyway, then use those to mount a nice little air box on top of the ITB's to make it easier to hook up intake pipework

again any thoughts would be great

Silicon bronze rod and TIG.

i don't have a TIG so was going to use some of those aluminium brazing rods....

andy198712 wrote:i don't have a TIG so was going to use some of those aluminium brazing rods....

Same basic idea.
Haven't tried it with gas brazing as I don't have a gas setup.

Piledriver wrote:

andy198712 wrote:i don't have a TIG so was going to use some of those aluminium brazing rods....

Same basic idea.
Haven't tried it with gas brazing as I don't have a gas setup.

Cool thanks buddy


Can use MAP gas with it, so might give it a go.... watch this space!

i don't see much need for removing the TBI's so not worried about welding them, also i won't be stuck for space as my beetle is having a removable rear end (not just valance)....

Some aluminum castings don't react very well to aluminum brazing due to the silicon content. You might want to try brazing something to the flanges you removed first.