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Thought I'd share a few pics of my recent DTM installation.

Firstly, this is how it looked before using a Sharpbuilt upright conversion:


Then during the preparation, as the DTM was shipped


In primer:


In paint:


Trial fit during installation (pretty much perfect fit first time might I add):

Sealing tins took a bit of fiddling to get them to fit right (note, I made my own - should have bought them from RAT but hindsight is a wonderful thing).


Braided line and 45 degree AN fittings were used for the oil lines up to cooler - care was taken to ensure no rubbing on f/g shroud:


Vac line and fan belt obviously not in place yet:


Just another random pic:


-10 breather line necessitated some "slight squashing" of cooler ducting - It was too hard to relocate the breather box at this stage.


After this pic, exhaust was bolted up and engine fired to life again - time to drive and enjoy this thing again!

Looks Great !!!

pete

Dasdubber,

I am just doing a similar DTM install now. Your pictures really help. I didn't get Jake's full kit either, so I have been struggling with the tins. Many other issues have pushed this issue into the background, but just seeing your pictures is a big help. I'll go cut some more paper.

How did you prep your DTM for the primer coat? Just scuff pad to knock the finish off? (hope Jake's not listening - he worked hard on the shiny black) Or was there some other undercoating to seal the plastic?

Great looking job on your car.

doc

Looks sweet color matched!
A couple questions for you,
How do you like the Mallory? I just bought one and will be installing it this week.
And what psi are your running your fuel regulator at? thanks.

Thanks guys - I think it really is a fantastic piece of gear and much better than what I used previously in terms of fit and quality of finish. I haven't run it yet to evaluate performance/efficiency but was very impressed by all the R&D done by Jake to improve Joe's design.

I asked Jake about paint paint prep (so he knows about it already ) - he recommended a red 3M pad to scuff the surface. I couldn't find such a pad where I live so resorted to 600grit wet and dry which basically doesn't scratch the surface but does dull it to promote paint adhesion. The primer was just an acrylic primer/surfacer - nothing special. I just checked with the paint supplierthat the base coat would stick to it and the primer would stick to the f/g. All was good.

With regards to the mallory, I have been very satisfied with it thus far - the adjustability of advance (initial, max and curve, plus vacuum) was worth it alone.

The fuel reg is set to around 2.7psi (typically from research on here it was recommended between 2.5-3.0 for the dells).

Hope this helps.
Alan

Looks nice. Does the paint have any stress cracks in it? Painted mine Blue and looks like the HOK clear has spidered on it.
http://www.pbase.com/davebro/image/57469861


Also gave me an idea for the Oil filter. Don't know why I didn't think of relocating before, don't like how close it sets to the header at stock location.

G'day Dave - no spider cracks in the paint just yet but will keep an eye on it!

Managed to finally get everything back together:




It's nice to finally get to drive the car again after a couple months off the road!

Excellent job! the sealing tin looks great despite the trouble you might have had.

Ron

what did you do with your Sharpbuilt system?

bj

VERY clean installation!

The shrouds paint very easily, especially with the high gloss and very smooth gelcoat we use.. I use a red 3M pad to scuff it up, then prime the shroud with epoxy primer and generally use a single stage PPG paint.

Doc, those tins he used look like my waterjet cut tins, they drastically reduce the work needed to finish up the install. Before we had them I literally hated that part of the DTM install. The tins make it much easier

bj wrote:what did you do with your Sharpbuilt system?

bj

I sold it to another type IV convert here in australia.


You are right Jake, it does take time to cut the sealing tins! At the time I couldn't afford the extra US$100 approx esp with the high freight cost to Oz - in hindsight, should have saved and bought them! But its done now

I tried to get water jet/laser cutters here to do it but would have cost too much obviously for that sort of one off job. I liked how you say that in the dvd something along the lines of "guys often decide to do it themselves, then end up buying the tins off us" - I had a chuckle at that part as it would have been me until I decided to just pull my finger out and do it! It's a great kit though, I am really impressed.

Cool....
You did a very good job cutting the tins, they look very clean on the edges, that takes time to do for sure...

100 bucks is cheap when it saves you 8-10 hours of solid pain in the ass work.